The Cathedral-Altar Vestments-Triptych-Portraits and Tombs- Svathastathr-Heathen Charity-Church of Vithimyri-An odd Cow- Borg, an old Castle-Queen Victoria's Cousin-Icelandic Duck- The long-tailed Duck-Red-necked Phalaropes-Deep Bogs-Melr -A happy Meeting-A Wedding-Female Dress-Music-National Anthem-Michaelmas Hymn-Mr. Briggs in Love-Church Service -Sacred Music-Ecclesiastical Position of the Icelandic Establish- Glacial Action-Bjarg: the Home of Grettir - Cairn-Spear-head- Carved Stone-Magical Characters-The Story of the Banded-men: Leave Melr-Icelandic Etiquette-A beautiful Frith-Mr. Briggs's Story -Thorodds-stathr-Row across the Fjord-Merchant Vessels- Hospitality-Mr. Briggs recovers his Heart-Trouble with the Pack- saddle-Holtavörthu Heithi-Sclavonian Grebe-Arctic Foxes- Icelandic Traditions concerning the Fox-Icelandic Mice-Tra- Ascend the Side of Ók-Flowers-Strange Sight-Skogkottr-Meet old Flowers-A natural Chimney-Extensive Plain— Laugarvatn — An eccentric Bridge-Uthlith-Sleeping in a Church-Position of the Geysir District-Description of the Springs-The Little Geysir- Jack in the Box-Boiling Wells-Strokr-Blue Ponds-Experi- Leave Geysir-Last View of Heckla―The rumoured Eruption of Skapta -Return to Thingvöllum-Latin Conversation-Seljadalr-The Plague of Flies-Halt at a Farm-A fair Haymaker-The Spell broken-Return to Reykjavík-Sale of Horses-Icelandic Ponies- Their strong and weak Points-Leave Iceland-The Captain's Joke PREFACE. My object in visiting Iceland was twofold. I pur posed examining scenes famous in Saga, and filling a portfolio with water-colour sketches. The reader must bear this in mind, otherwise he may be disappointed at finding in these pages little new matter of scientific interest. The landscape painter will thank me for having opened to him a new field for his pencil; and the antiquarian will be glad to obtain an insight into the habits and customs of Icelanders in the tenth and eleventh centuries. My illustrations faithfully represent the character of the country, though they necessarily fail in render ing the wild beauty of colouring. I invariably subinitted them to my guide, and found that he at once recognized the spots, so that I am satisfied with their fidelity. Some of the panoramic views have unavoidably suffered in being contracted to the compass of the book, but if the reader will imagine them to be pulled out like bits of india-rubber he will obtain a correct notion of the scenes. I refer to the panoramas on Plates I. and XIV. My specimens of the Sagas have been selected with a view towards illustrating the voyages, quarrels, litigations, and superstitions of the ancient Icelanders. It must be remembered that the Sagas from which I draw my extracts are not mere popular tales; they are downright history. To quote the words of our highest English authority on the subject when speaking of the Njala, but which apply equally to the Gretla, Aigla, Bandamanna Saga, Vatnsdæla Saga, &c. :-"We may be sure that as soon as each event recorded in the Saga occurred it was told and talked about as matter of history; and when at last the whole story was unfolded and took shape, and centred round Njal, that it was handed down from father to son as truthfully and faithfully as could ever be the case with any public or notorious matter in local history. But it is not on Njala alone that we have |