Get this book in print
About this book
My library
Books on Google Play
ΤΟ
MAJOR-GENERAL EDWARD SABINE, R.A.,
PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY.
MY DEAR UNCLE,
It is with great pleasure that I dedicate this book to you,
as a token of my gratitude for the kind interest you have taken, both in
my expedition to Iceland, and in the progress of this volume.
I remain,
Ever yours sincerely,
SABINE BARING-GOULD.
Ísland far-sældar frón,
Ok hag-sældar hrím-hvíta móðir!
Hvar er þín fornaldar frægð,
Frelsið ok manndáðin bezt?
Iceland, thou fare-blessed spot,
Thou use-blessed rime-whitened mother!
Where are thine olden fame,
And freedom, and manliness best?
PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
COASTING.
First Sight of Iceland - Hjörleif's Head-Dyrhólar-The Westmann
Islands Life of the Islanders
-
The Yankee's Story - My first
Saga: "The Red Rovers "-Cape Reykjanes- The Mealsack-
The Great Auk
CHAPTER II.
REYKJAVIK.
Arrival-Description of Reykjavík-"A very Antient fish-like Smell!"-
The School-The Residence The Cathedral - Thorwaldsen-
Icelandic Silverwork-The Merchant Stores-Mr. Briggs and the
Porters-Dinner-I visit the Rector-A would-be Suicide-The
Catholic Mission-The Origin of Iceland.
26
CHAPTER III.
MÓSFELL.
- -
Leave Reykjavík-Rich Soil-Leiruvogr-Accidents-Camp out — A
lazy Guide Arctic Midnight Rank Breakfast-The Story of
Sonartorrek-Alpine Road-Icelandic Dogs-A Farmhouse-Filth
-On the Heithi-Birds-Icelandic Indifference-Arrival at Thing-
völlum-A Quarrel
43
CHAPTER IV.
THINGVELLIR.
The Plains of the Council-The Almanna-gjá-The Hill of Laws-
History of Althing-Lava Broth-Icelandic Food-Butter-Curd
-Lichen-Sunday-The Burning of the Hostel: a Saga.
PAGE
67
CHAPTER V.
AMONG THE JOKULLS.
Leave Thingvellir-Meyjar-skarth-A lovely View-The Big Bed breaks
loose-Grettis-tak-A mysterious Vale-Attempts to re-discover
it-Ascent of Geitland's Jökull-Brunnir-Dearth of Fuel -
Kaldidalr-The Old Woman of Bones-A Vale of Desolation—A
Tract of Ash-Kalmanstúnga-Robbers
CHAPTER VI.
THE EAGLE TARNS.
Eiriks Jökull Taxation - The Sheep's Disease-A Swan's-nest-Lava
-Lose our Way - Camping out- Glorious Scene - Cooking
Arrangements-Rare Skua-Great Northern Diver-Storm on the
Heithi-Gunnarssonarvatn The Great Eagle Tarn-Desert-
Hólma-kvísl
86
99
CHAPTER VII.
THE VAMPIRE'S GRAVE.
Barren Wilderness-A Cairn-The Valley of Shadows: a Saga —A
magnificent Gorge-Waterfalls-The Vatnsdalr-Arrival at Grím-
stúnga
115
CHAPTER VIII.
THE VALE OF WATERS.
Vatnsdalr-Forsæludalr-A dangerous Predicament Thorolf wi' the
Dead-face-An ancient Fort-Colonization of Vatnsdalr-Hóf-
The Story of Hrolleifr: a Saga-MSS.-Old Nick Icelandic
Endearments-Music-Haukagil-Undirfell
133
CHAPTER IX.
FROM HNAUSIR TO EYJA FJORD.
A Tract of Slag Cones-An Icelandic Doctor-Part from my Friends-
Giljá-Conversion of Iceland-Svínavatn-Icelandic Churches-A
miserable Lodging-Slang-Harlequin Duck-Ford the Blandá-
Vatnsskarth-Vithimyri-Purchase a Horse-Ford the Heradsvatn
-Miklibor-Oxnadals Heithi-Steinstathr-A Caravan-Strange
Merchandise-The Princess Alexandra-A Death .
CHAPTER X.
AKUREYRI.
A little Town-New Church-Site of the Town injudiciously chosen
-The Post-Grimsey-An Island Cure-Danish Hospitality-The
Newspaper Office-Supper-English Vessels-Jack Tar in Iceland
-Trees-MSS.-Icelandic Poetry-The Dream-Ballad
CHAPTER XI.
155
. 171
UXAHVER.
A second Guide Icelandic Horse-calls A theological Candidate -
Vathlaskarth-Wood in the Fnjoská-dale-Háls-Ljósavatn-The
Raven-Myth regarding it-Extent to which the Myth has spread—
Góthafoss- Flowers Cross the Flood of Quivering Waves
Acquaintances-Lava Cracks-Grenjatharstathr-Uxahver-Boil-
ing Springs-The Wild Huntsman-Origin of the Myth-Myvatn. 184
CHAPTER XII.
A REGION OF FIRE.
Myvatn-Lava Streams-Reykjahlith-Sand Columns-A Plain of Boil-
ing Mud-Chaldrons-Krafla-Obsidian Mountain-A Ride over
a Desert-Eylifr-A wretched Farm-Dettifoss-A magnificent Fall
-Volcanic Cones-Return to Reykjahlith . 205
CHAPTER XIII.
A SNOW PASS.
I hold a Levee-My Plans upset-The Church of Thverá-Taking French
Leave Swimming across a River - MSS. Sagas―Jón's Bills—
Runaway Ponies-Rocky Spires-Perverseness of Grímr-A
Mountain Sel-A fearful Pass-Snowbridge-A desperate Scramble
-Stone Bog-Midnight on the Snow-A crumbling Snowbridge-
Arrival at Hólar-An alarming Proposal.
220