oat-cakes and whisky, to sleep on a couch of heather in the corner of a smoky Highland bothy!

Modern tourists have a choice of two principal routes—one by railway to Inverness, and thence by steamer on the Caledonian Canal, at the western extremity of which-where stands the excellent inn at Banavie-steamers are ready to take them to the islands; the other by the Clyde to Ardrishaig on Loch Fyne, Crinan Canal, Oban, the Islands, and the Caledonian Canal, being just a reversal of the former route. Latterly, a handsome small steamer has been put on this short canal, and by it passengers are carried from sea to sea, with remarkable ease and_celerity. The best way, in our opinion, for those tourists from England who desire to proceed on this 'royal route,' is to take the rail direct to Glasgow, where they need only give themselves the trouble to walk on board the Iona any morning at seven o'clock. Fairly in the Iona, the first of the series of boats, they will be handed from one vessel to another according as they have a fancy-fed and lodged all the way, be it long or short, in sumptuous style. The present Iona, in which the Highland tour begins, is the third of the name, and fine as were its predecessors, this considerably excels them. In 1865, we made a trip with Iona the Second, and now, in 1866, having performed the voyage homeward from Ardrishaig with Iona the Third (which is said to have cost about £20,000), can speak of it with a certain amount of experience.

The appearance of the Iona reminds one of the passenger-steamers on the Hudson and St Lawrence. It is constructed on the American pattern, with a long saloon full of windows on deck, and a railed promenade above, on which in the open air we may enjoy to its full extent the beautiful scenery around. The vessel, however, is three stories in depth. Beneath the saloon, and reached by a broad flight of steps, there is a spacious apartment, well lighted and ventilated, for serving refreshments. The vast length of the vessel will surprise those who have not been on board American riversteamers. It is 260 feet long by a breadth, for the greater part, of nearly 25 feet. The moving force consists of a pair of oscillating engines of 180 horse-power, which work with singular smoothness, and can be instantly reversed or stopped. The waste steam, instead of being allowed to rush with ferocity into the atmosphere along with the smoke, so as to spatter every one with dirt, makes its decorous exit by apertures like two nostrils in front, near the surface of the water-an immense and much-needed improvement in steamboat building. The Iona being a paddle-steamer, moves with a steadiness which seems deficient where the screw, with its horrid grinding noise, is employed for propulsion. When we went aboard this fine vessel at Ardrishaig, the number of passengers might be about a thousand, pretty equally divided between first and second class; yet, from the great space at command, there was no painful crowding. The upper deck, with its sofas, shewed numbers seated

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and promenading or leaning over the bulwarks, with eyes directed towards the far-reaching lochs among the lofty blue hills. Thanks to the cheap press, many were engaged in perusing the morning papers, supplies of which are to be obtained from juvenile traders, who are seen also to do some business in selling maps and guidebooks to tourists. Descending to the principal saloon, which occupies the after-part of the vessel, and is sixty feet in length, it was seen, as respects painting, gilding, carpeting, and couches of Utrecht velvet, to possess all the luxury of a drawing-room.

The number of persons for whom dinner can be prepared on board of steam-boats, has always appeared to us a kind of marvel. You hear excellent managing wives insisting on the importance of a good large kitchen, without which it is not possible to get up a dinner for a dozen people; but, strange to say, in places the size of a small closet on board steamers, dinners are daily prepared for hundreds. The thing is a problem, 'which no fellow can understand.' We observe that this miracle in cookery is performed in the Iona. 'How many can you dine?' said we to the head-steward. 'Two hundred and fifty; but more if necessary.' And such dinners? Two long tables were equipped in a manner which would not have disgraced the mansion of a nobleman-everything in the best style, with ice at discretion. The breakfasts as well as the dinners are so sumptuous and tempting, and such are the appetising qualities of the voyage, that persons who wish to remain lean and interesting had better abstain from the trip. As we have no desire of that kind, but, on the contrary, would be glad of a little more robustness, notwithstanding its extreme vulgarity, we possess a high relish for these repasts, and think it might not be a bad plan to contract for a summer's board in the Iona. There would assuredly be no want of company. Every day a fresh set of people, some of them old acquaintances, would leave no time for ennui. We remark that this gregarious quality of the vessel affords an opportunity for amusement to the villa-inhabitants on the Clyde. When they want to see the world-the gentlemen to talk politics, and the ladies to learn the last phase in the crinoline frenzy-they step on board this floating palace, make a circuit of a hundred miles, and come back to their homes to tea, all for a few shillings-having had half a day's delightful exhilaration without any kind of bodily fatigue. Such are some of the triumphs of modern practical science, when directed by an intelligent consideration of human wants and feelings. Great Britain can shew nothing more thoroughly adapted for locomotion in conjunction with health, mental and physical, than Hutcheson's Clyde and West Highland steamers. We know not what steamers may come to. At present, the finest thing of the kind is the Iona; by it I was landed at Greenock on the afternoon of Monday, 13th of August, and in a few hours later arrived at home in Edinburgh. So ends a LORD PROVOST'S HOLIDAY.

N the 1st of August 1809, a day I shall ever have cause to remember, I went on a pleasure excursion, in a small vessel belonging to my father, from Marseille to Nice. At this time the coast of France was strictly watched by English cruisers; and to elude these, we kept as much as possible close inshore. This precaution was, unfortunately, useless. When off the isles of Hyeres, we were observed, and chased by an English cutter, which soon came up with us. Resistance was of course useless, and foreseeing the result, we at the first shot yielded ourselves prisoners. Before going on board the enemy's vessel, I concealed about my person as much money and other valuables as I could; and of this property I was not afterwards deprived. We were indeed treated with less severity than we had reason to expect. On the day after our capture, we were removed, with many other prisoners, into another vessel, with orders to make the best of our way to England. What my sensations were on being thus torn from my beloved country, my friends, and relations, may be easily conceived.

In a few days we arrived on the coast of England, and were immediately ordered round to an eastern port-Lynn, in Norfolkwhence we were forwarded, to the number of some hundreds, in lighters and small craft, to the dépôt of prisoners of war at Norman

No. 92.

I

Cross-I think about fifty miles inland. Arriving at Peterborough— a respectable-looking town with a handsome cathedral-apparently a gay and thoughtless set, we were marched to our destination. On reaching Norman Cross, we all underwent the usual scrutiny by the inspecting officers; and an exact description was taken of each individual as to his age, size, colour of hair and eyes, &c., which was entered in a book kept for that purpose. All these preparations gave a fearful presentiment of what we were. afterwards to expect, and raised emotions in my breast of a nature I cannot define, but which several times, whilst the examination was going on, made me shudder with a kind of convulsive horror, not at all lessened on our admittance into, and review of our prison. The English had here upwards of seven thousand prisoners of war, of one nation or other, but chiefly Frenchmen. I will endeavour to describe a few particulars of the place, as well as I can recollect, which may at the same time also serve to illustrate my escape from it.

The whole of the buildings, including the prison and the barracks for the soldiers who guarded us, were situated on an eminence, and were certainly airy enough, commanding a full and extensive view over the surrounding country, which appeared well cultivated in some parts; but in front of the prison, to the south-east, the prospect terminated in fens and marshes, in the centre of which was Whittlesea Mere, a large lake, of some miles in circumference. The highroad from London to Scotland ran close by the prison, and we could, at all hours of the day, see the stage-coaches and other carriages bounding along the beautiful roads of the country with a rapidity unknown elsewhere; and the contrast afforded by contemplating these scenes of liberty continually before our eyes, only served to render the comparison more harrowing to our feelings.

There was no apparent show about the place of military strength, formed by turreted castles or by embrasured battlements; in fact it was little better than an enclosed camp. The security of the prisoners was effected by the unceasing watch of ever-wakeful sentinels, constantly passing and repassing, who were continually changing; and I have no doubt this mode of security was more effectual than if surrounded by moated walls or by fortified towers. Very few, in comparison of the numbers who attempted it, succeeded in escaping the boundaries, though many ingenious devices were put in practice to accomplish it. However, if once clear of the place, final success was not so difficult.

The space appointed for the reception of the prisoners consisted of four equal divisions or quadrangles; and these again were divided into four parts, each of which was surrounded by a high palisade of wood, and paved for walking on; but the small ground it occupied scarcely left us sufficient room to exercise for our health, and this was a very great privation. In each of these subdivisions was a large wooden building, covered with red tiles, in which we ate our

meals and dwelt; these also served for our dormitories or sleepingplaces, where we were nightly piled in hammocks, tier upon tier, in most horrible regularity. One of these quadrangles was entirely occupied by the hospital and medical department. A division of another quadrangle was allotted to the officers, who were allowed a few trifling indulgences not granted to the common men, amongst whom I unfortunately was included. In another division was a school, the master of which was duly paid for his attendance. It was conducted with great regularity and decorum, and there you might sometimes see several respectable Englishmen, particularly those attached to the duties of the prison, taking their seats with the boys to learn the French language. Another small part was appropriated as a place of closer confinement or punishment to those who broke the rules appointed for our government, or wantonly defaced any part of the buildings, or pawned or lost their clothes; these last were put, I think, upon two-thirds allowance of provisions, till the loss occasioned thereby was made good; and I must confess this part was seldom without its due proportion of inhabitants. The centre of the prison was surrounded by a high brick wall, beyond which were the barracks for the English soldiers, several guardhouses, and some handsome buildings for both the civil and military officers; whilst a circular blockhouse, mounted with swivels or small cannon, pointing to the different divisions, frowned terrifically over us, and completed the outside of the picture.

With respect to the interior economy of the prison, we were not treated with any particular degree of harshness or of unnecessary privation, further than the security of so large a number of men required. On Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, we had one pound and a half of bread, half a pound of beef, with a proportionate quantity of salt and vegetables; or, if no vegetables could be procured, we had in lieu pearl-barley or oatmeal. On Wednesdays and Fridays we had the usual quantity of bread, one pound of cod-fish or herrings, and one pound of potatoes. No ale or beer was served out to us, but we were allowed to purchase it at the canteen in the prison. To insure to us no fraud or embezzlement, each department or division sent two deputies to inspect the weight and quality of the provisions, which, if not approved by them and the agent to the prison, were invariably rejected and returned; and if any difference of opinion existed between the agent and the deputies, a reference was made to the officers on guard at the time, and their decision was final. A regular daily market was held in the prison, where the country-people brought a variety of articles for sale, and where every luxury could be purchased by those who had money. Our cooks were appointed from amongst ourselves, and paid by the English government, so that, in regard to diet, we had not much to complain of. The hospital or medical department, I have heard-for I was never an inmate of it, except