DEAR SIR, TO THE REV. MR. COLE. Strawberry-hill, Sept. 5, 1765. You cannot think how agreeable your letter was to me, and how luckily it was timed. I thought you in Cheshire, and did not know how to direct: I now sit down to answer it instantly. I have been extremely ill indeed with the gout all over; in head, stomach, both feet, both wrists, and both shoulders. I kept my bed a fortnight in the most sultry part of this summer; and for nine weeks could not say I was recovered. Though I am still weak, and very soon tired with the least walk, I am in other respects quite well. However, to promote my entire re-establishment, I shall set out for Paris next Monday. Thus your letter came luckily. To hear you talk of going thither, too, made it most agreeable. Why should you not advance your journey? Why defer it till the winter is coming on? It would make me quite happy to visit churches and convents with you: but they are not comfortable in cold weather. Do, I beseech you, follow me as soon as possible. The thought of your being there at the same time makes me much more pleased with my journey; you will not, I hope, like it the less: and, if our meeting there should tempt you to stay longer, it will make me still more happy. If, in the mean time, I can be of any use to you, I shall be glad; either in taking a lodging for you, or any thing else. Let me know, and direct to me in Arlington-street, whence my servant will convey it to me. Tell me above all things that you will set out sooner. If I have any money left when I return, and can find a place for it, I shall be very glad to purchase the ebony cabinet you mention, and will make it a visit with you next summer if you please-but first let us go to Paris. I don't give up my passion for ebony: but, since the destruction of the Jesuits, I hear one can pick up so many of their spoils that I am impatient for the opportunity. I must finish, as I have so much business before I set out; but I must repeat, how lucky the arrival of your letter was, how glad I was to hear of your intended journey, and how much I wish it may take place directly. I will only add that the court goes to Fontainbleau the last week in September, or first in October, and therefore it is the season in the world for seeing all Versailles quietly, and at one's ease. Adieu! dear sir, Yours most cordially. BEAU COUSIN, TO THE HON. H. S. CONWAY. Amiens, Wednesday, Sept. 11, 1765. I have had a very prosperous journey till just at entering this city. I escaped a prince of Nassau at Dover, and sickness at sea, though the voyage lasted seven hours and a half. I have recovered my strength surprisingly in the time; though almost famished for want of clean victuals, and comfortable tea and bread and butter. Half a mile from hence I met a coach and four with an equipage of French, and a lady in pea-green and silver, a smart hat and feather, and two suivantes. My reason told me it was the archbishop's concubine; but luckily my heart whispered that it was lady ******. I jumped out of my chaise-yes, jumped, as Mrs. Nugent said of herself, fell on my knees, and said my first Ave Maria, gratiá plena. We just shot a few politics flying-heard that madame de Mirepoix had toasted me t'other day in tea-shook hands, forgot to weep, and parted; she to the hereditary princess, I to this inn, where is actually resident the duchess of Douglas. We are not likely to have an intercourse, or I would declare myself a Hamilton.1 I find this country wonderfully enriched since I saw it fourand-twenty years ago. Boulogne is grown quite a plump snug 1 The memorable cause between the houses of Douglas and Hamilton was then pending. [Or.] Archibald Stuart, son of sir John Stuart, bart., of Grandtully, by the lady Jane Douglas, only daughter of James, second marquess of Douglas, was, upon the demise of his uncle, Archibald duke of Douglas, without issue, 21st July 1761, when the dukedom expired, returned heir of line and provision to that nobleman. But the duke of Hamilton, who had inherited his grace's marquisate of Douglas, disputing the return on the ground of Mr. Stuart's birth being surreptitious, and the Scotch courts determining in favour of Hamilton, an appeal was made to the House of Lords, which reversed the Scottish judgment, 27th February 1769. This suit, known by the name of the "Douglas cause," made a noise all over Europe, and was one of the most extraordinary ever litigated. [Ed.] town, with a number of new houses. The worst villages are tight, and wooden shoes have disappeared. Mr. Pitt and the city of London may fancy what they will, but France will not come a-begging to the Mansion-house this year or two. In truth, I impute this air of opulence a little to ourselves. The crumbs that fall from the chaises of the swarms of English that visit Paris, must have contributed to fatten this province. It is plain I must have little to do when I turn my hand to calculating: but here is my observation. From Boulogne to Paris it will cost me near ten guineas; but then consider, I travel alone, and carry Louis most part of the way in the chaise with me. Nous autres milords Anglois are not often so frugal. Your brother, last year, had ninety-nine English to dinner on the king's birth-day. How many of them do you think dropped so little as ten guineas on this road? In short, there are the seeds of a calculation for you; and if you will water them with a torrent of words, they will produce such a dissertation, that you will be able to vie with George Grenville next session in plans of national economy-only be sure not to tax travelling till I come back, loaded with purchases; nor, till then, propagate my ideas. It will be time enough for me to be thrifty of the nation's money, when I have spent all my own. Clermont, 12th. WHILE they are getting my dinner, I continue my journal. The duchess of Douglas (for English are generally the most extraordinary persons that we meet with even out of England) left Amiens before me, on her way home. You will not guess what she carries with her-Oh! nothing that will hurt our manufactures; nor what George Grenville himself would seize. One of her servants died at Paris; she had him embalmed, and the body is tied before her chaise:—a droll way of being chief mourner! For a French absurdity, I have observed that along the great roads they plant walnut-trees, but strip them up for firing. It is like the owl that bit off the feet of mice, that they might lie still and fatten. At the foot of this hill is an old-fashioned chateau belonging to the duke of Fitz-James, with a parc en quincunx and clipped 2 Francis earl of Hertford, then ambassador at Paris. [Or.] hedges. We saw him walking in his waistcoat and riband, very well powdered; a figure like Guerchy. I cannot say his seat rivals Goodwood or Euston.3 I shall lie at Chantilly to-night, for I did not set out till ten this morning-not because I could not, as you will suspect, get up sooner-but because all the horses in the country have attended the queen to Nancy.*. Besides, I have a little underplot of seeing Chantilly and St. Denis in my way; which you know one could not do in the dark to-night, nor in winter, if I return then. Hotel de feue madame l'Ambassadrice d'Angleterre, I AM just arrived. My lady Hertford is not at home, and lady Anne5 will not come out of her burrow: so I have just time to finish this before madam returns; and Brian sets out to-night and will carry it. I find I shall have a great deal to say formerly I observed nothing, and now remark every thing minutely. I have already fallen in love with twenty things, and in hate with forty. Adieu! Yours ever. TO THE RIGHT HON. LADY HERVEY. Paris, September 14, 1765. I AM but two days old here, madam, and I doubt I wish I was really so, and had my life to begin, to live it here. You see how just I am, and ready to make amende honorable to your ladyship. Yet I have seen very little. My lady Hertford has cut me to pieces, and thrown me into a caldron with tailors, periwig-makers, snuff-box-wrights, milliners, &c. which really took up but little time; and I am come out quite new, with 3 The duc de Fitz-James's father, mareschal Berwick, was a natural son of James II. Mr. Walpole therefore compares his country seat with those of the dukes of Richmond and Grafton, similar descendants from his brother Charles II. [Or.] * Stanislaus king of Poland, father to the queen of Louis XV. lived at Nancy. [Or.] 5 Lady Anne Seymour Conway, afterwards married to the earl of Drogheda. [Or.] every thing but youth. The journey recovered me with magic expedition. My strength, if mine could ever be called strength, is returned; and the gout going off in a minuet step. I will say nothing of my spirits, which are indecently juvenile, and not less improper for my age than for the country where I am; which, if you will give me leave to say it, has a thought too much gravity. I don't venture to laugh or talk nonsense, but in English. Madame Geoffrin came to town but last night, and is not visible on Sundays; but I hope to deliver your ladyship's letter and packet to-morrow. Mesdames d'Aiguillon, d'Egmont, and Chabot, and the duc de Nivernois are all in the country. Madame de Boufflers is at l'Isle Adam, whither my lady Hertford is gone to-night to sup, for the first time, being no longer chained down to the incivility of an ambassadress. She returns after supper; an irregularity that frightens me, who have not yet got rid of all my barbarisms. There is one, alas! I never shall get over-the dirt of this country: it is melancholy, after the purity of Strawberry! The narrowness of the streets, trees clipped to resemble brooms, and planted on pedestals of chalk, and a few other points, do not edify me. The French opera, which I have heard to-night, disgusted me as much as ever ; and the more for being followed by the Devin de Village, which shews that they can sing without cracking the drum of one's ear. The scenes and dances are delightful: the Italian comedy charming. Then I am in love with treillage and fountains, and will prove it at Strawberry. Chantilly is so exactly what it was when I saw it above twenty years ago, that I recollected the very position of monsieur le duc's chair and the gallery. The latter gave me the first idea of mine; but, presumption apart, mine is a thousand times prettier. I gave my lord Herbert's compliments to the statue of his friend the constable; and, waiting some time for the concierge, I called out, Où est Vatel? 2 In short, madam, being as tired as one can be of one's own country, I don't say whether that is much or little,-I find 1 The constable de Montmorency. [Or.] 2 The maître-d'hotel, who, during the visit which Louis XIV. made to the grand Condé at Chantilly, put an end to his existence because he feared the sea-fish would not arrive in time for one day's repast. [Or.] |