1829.] A Pilgrimage to Maria-zell in Styria. lanese". We partook of a luncheon in a neat baronial apartment, decorated with English prints; and then started, on horseback, on our expedition to the fall, the Baron having preriously, at the cost of three florins Vienna currency (about two shillings), which are applied to the support of some public charity, caused the locks to be shut, so as to create, on a sudden, a greater supply of water for the exhibition. At a certain point we alighted, and pursued our course on foot upon a narrow causeway cut out of the rocks, amidst which the Threising, a small but rapid stream, wound its course. I never had a more interesting walk. We at length arrived at the Fall. I have been at Aberfeldy and Dunkeld, and I have, within these three weeks, contemplated the chute at Schaffhausen, and, in my journey through the Tyrol, the fall near Landeck; but I may truly say that all are surpassed by that of Lassing. The water, collected in a dam, about 200 yards above the Fall, precipitates itself down a broad fissure between the rocks from a height of 440 feet, with inconceivable violence, and a noise resembling the loudest thunder. The spray, which ascended to the summit of the mountain, perfectly enveloped us who were placed in an open pavilion, one of two purposely constructed near the hase of the rocks; and the sun luckily darting forth his rays, though feebly, heightened the beauty of the scene by casting a broad rainbow through the spray, and, as it were palpably, within our grasp. We returned, delighted with our excursion; and continued our journey over the Annaberg, Trom whence we descended to Türnitz, and dined luxuriously on the finest trout and grouse. We reached our old quarters at Lilienfeld at seven. Our way on the 23d, after leaving Kaumberg, conducted us towards Gutenstein, the next point of attraction, and an object of pilgrimage of the se Our coachman, with the sarcastic naiveté which distinguishes the lowest class of the metropolis, told us that the cara sposa was a Sadler's daughter of one of the suburbs of Vienna, who, having attracted the notice of mine host on her pilgrimage to Maria-zell, was, in an evil hour, honoured with his hand-a helpmate being essential to the management of his reduced menage. The shrewd rogue added, in his Wiener dialect, and its peculiar emphasis, “ die hot in oilem wosser gewoschen !" 199 cond class. Passing through enormous sierras, and beautiful valleys, irrigated by mountain streams, which, at intervals, were sufficiently broad to be classed amongst rivers, we arrived at Fahlafeld, and through other villages, in which manufactories appeared to flourish, at a serpentine pass by which we ascended on foot the Hals (nack), a mountain of great magnitude, from whence the mighty Schneeberg, the Jungfrau of Austria, and his neighbouring alpst, broke upon our view. This mountain, which, for above 1000 feet above its brethren on the same ridge, is entirely barren, and contains, in its fissures, eternal snow, is more than 6000 feet above the level of the sea. It is a rare occurrence to see the summit, which, almost at all times, is covered with vapour. A light fleecy cloud now concealed the apex, and presaged early dispersion, which, in fact, happened on the following morning whilst we were at Gulenstein. The passage of the Hals was grand beyond all description, as our road often lay over crags parallel to some of the mountains which seemed to be attendant on the Schneeberg, as their lord paramount. At Pernitz we descended into the plain; and made from thence a short detour in order to see the waterfall at Muckendorf, a sequestered hamlet whose inhabitants appeared to be half idiots. A young guide conducted us to the Fall, which was of a character totally different from that of Lassing. The water rushes out of a rock near the summit of a lofty glen, and dividing itself into numerous minor currents, is precipitated over broken rocks, picturesquely located in the chinet. Towards the base of the mountain several mills are supplied by the different bodies of water, and their clatter serves to increase the singular effect of the whole. After regaining the main road, we soon reached Gutenstein, glad to refresh ourselves with the excellent fare which the only inn + It is well known that the description of mountains denominated "alp," is one affording, near the summit, pasture for cattle, and too lofty to admit of their being driven home in the evening. During one half, at least, of the year, they are retained, and entirely fed on the mountain, where huts are also constructed for their keepers, and the preparation of butter and cheese. I adopt this designation from the resemblance of the fissure (si parvis maxima, &c.) to Shanklin-Chine in the Isle of Wight 200 A Pilgrimage to Maria-zell in Styria. (not, in other respects, the most comfortable) in the place afforded; reserving for the following day our inspection of the far celebrated curiosities in the vicinity of our new quarters. Our perambulation early on the 24th commenced with the most propitious weather which could have been desired, by our ascending the mountain called Maria-Hülf (auxilium Maria), which overhangs the villa of Gutenstein. Statues, forming a kind of Calvary, and shaded by a row of trees, were our conductors upon the steep meadow which led to a dark grove of firs upon the summit of the mountain. Every step rewarded us with a beautiful view of the valley beneath, embosoming the village blackened by the operations of the charcoal makers and nailers, almost the only inhabitants. On the crown of a barren rock of extraordinary height, and which seemed to have separated itself in some violent concussion of nature, from a greater mountain clothed with dark pines, so densely as to leave nothing save their ever enduring gloomy verdure visible, are the ruins of the ancient castle or fort of the Lords of Gutenstein. It was fortified, in 1220, by Duke Leopold VII. of Austria. Here died, in 1330, the Emperor Frederick, surnamed Pulcher; and here was imprisoned Matthias Corvinus before his removal to Prague in 1457. In 1595 the Emperor Rudolph II. transferred it, with all its woods, chaces, pastures, and tents, for 29,000 florins (not 3000/.), to Louis Gomez de Hoyos, a Spanish noble who had attended Charles V. into Germany. His descendant, the Count of Hoyos, is the present owner of the domain; and has a modern cheerful chateau, with beautiful grounds and gardens, in the village. At the foot of the rock is the so called Kloster-thal, a narrow romantic valley leading to the base of the ridge connected with the Schneeberg. After continuing to ascend during half an hour, we reached the top of Maria-Hülf, and found there a Church, a convent fronting the Schneeberg, and an iun for pilgrims. At that moment a long train of pilgrims issued from the Church, conducted with music by one of the seven monks of the order called Servites, who inhabit the cœnobium. They are dressed in black, and wear their beards long and falling on their breast. On arriving at the Maria Oratory, on the brow of the mountain, the [Sept. priest took leave of the procession, and returned to his cell, attended by two standard bearers, with their gonfalons floating in the air. The monks live here by the bounty bestowed on their foundation by Count Johann Balthasar de Hoyos, who built the original Convent in 1668, about the same time when the residence on the rock was reconstructed. The convent having become a prey of the flames, the present building was erected in 1708. The mountain, inhabited by these recluses, is beautifully laid out in walks, with pavilions at all the points, from whence interesting views are obtained, whether of the alpine mountains which constitute the principal feature of the scene, or of the fort and valley. On these walks there are, of course, Calvaries and different stations for prayer, with suitable directions and inscriptions, of which many, such as " Domine, mane nobiscum, nam vesperascit," are truly pious, and, so placed, affecting. From one of these points the Schneeberg, untouched by any cloud or vapour, was long contemplated by us with feelings of indescribable delight. What a source of pleasure must it afford to the lover of botanical science to wander over the domain of this lord of mountains, yielding more than 4000 different specimens which are enumerated in the "Fauna and Flora" of Schultes, from whose notes I have collected some of the foregoing data! The mountain is seen at an immense distance, and in clear weather may be plainly discerned from the walls of Vienna, in front of the Archduke Charles's palace. We passed the remainder of our time in the garden of Count Hoyos, and on the romantic rock of the fortress; and yesterday returned by Pernitz and Vöslau, to this place, which contains also, in its environs, much worthy of description; but my purpose is accomplished, and I fear I have, for the present, already trespassed too largely on your patience. G. F. B. L. M. communicates the following as the correct blazon of the armorial bearings of Mylne (see our last Supplement, p. 581): Or, a cross moline quarterly, pierced Azure, between three mullets of the Second. Crest: On a wreath, Pallas's head couped at the shoulders Proper, vested about the neck Vert, on the head a helmet Azure, beaver turned up, on the top a plume of feathers Gules. Motto: Tam in arte quan marte. 1829.] Rotherham Bridge.-Bromley Church, Kent. ROTHERHAM Bridge. THE accompanying Plate is a specimen of the embellishments of Allen's "History of Yorkshire," now in the course of publication. The town of Rotherham, situated in the Deanery of Doncaster, about six miles from Sheffield, takes its name from the river Rother, which joins the Don at a small distance from the town. The latter river, which is that seen in the engraving, is navigable to Sheffield, and communicating with other rivers and canals, opens a water intercourse with all the principal towns in the county, as well as those of Lincolnshire and Lancashire. The ancient Bridge retains one of those chapels, which were formerly such frequent companions of bridges. Another remains at Wakefield, and has also a plate in Mr. Allen's work. Rotherham ranks with Wakefield as one of the two greatest cattle-markets in Yorkshire. The town is not elegant; the houses, which are chiefly of stone, having in general a dull and dingy appearance. The Church is one of the most beautiful in that part of England. It was erected in the reign of Edward the Fourth; and chiefly by the munificence of Thomas Scot, alias Rotherham, Archbishop of York, who was a native of the town. Its form is a cross, from the centre of which rises a graceful spire, seen in the view. Rotherham Bridge unites to the town the village of Masborough, where are the celebrated founderies of the Walkers. There was forged the bridge of Sunderland, the first of any size built of iron in this country. Near them is the meeting-house erected by Samuel Walker, the great founder of the family, who died in 1782. Here also is a college, of the first esteem among Protestant Dissenters, styled the Rotherham Independent Academy. DASSING through the town of found the old Church there nearly pulled down, nothing remaining but the wellbuilt Gothic tower, and portious of the side walls. The gates of the churchyard were fortified with a palisade, so that it was impossible for an antiquary to enter, and satisfy himself what might GENT. MAG. September, 1829. 1 201 be the probable result to ancient vestiges in the Church of such desecrating and destructive appearances. I beg, therefore, through the medium of your pages to point out to those who respect and may be able to protect the antiquities attached to Bromley Church, the matters which are peculiarly worthy of their vigilance. Imprimis. There is a fine ancient font, if not of the Saxon, certainly of the earliest times of the Norman period. It is square, sufficiently large for the immersion of the infant, and the sides are ornamented with ranges of plain circular arches. Any improvement of the situation of this relic would be to remove the clumsy pedestal of brick on which it stands, and supply it with a circular supporting pillar at each angle, after the example of many fonts of the same time existing. There is a curious ornamented Gothic arch of the early part of the 13th century, in the north wall of the chancel. This has been conjectured (I believe erroneously) to be a tomb; it is rather the sepulchre, in which in Popish times the interment and resurrection of our Saviour was represented on the commencement of the festival of Easter. There has been a fine east window, the elegant pointed arch still remains; the arch should be re-opened, and the tracery of the interweaving mullions heraldric coats might be placed in the restored from a good example. Some window with good effect. The Corinthian altar-piece, which has hitherto so glaringly violated the unity of design, should be entirely removed. The windows should be re-gothicised; about half a century since they were all deprived of their proper character. There are some brasses and memorials in the Church worthy of more particular preservation; I would not imply that it is otherwise than a barbarous sacrilege to destroy any monuments of the dead. Of modern sepulchral tablets, Dr. Hawkesworth's against the wall of the north aisle is remarkable for its beautiful inscription. So is Mrs. Elizabeth Church. The Church door is a good specimen of the taste for ornament prevailing in the 14th century; a few mouldings in oak, after the original model, nailed on in the defective places, would restore it to its original appearance. |