cross the Konzas, and taking the nearest route to the Platte, to descend that stream, to its confluence with the Missouri. The water party experienced considerable difficulty in struggling against the current of this powerful river, and found essential changes both in its banks and channel, from the effect of inundations, since the voyage of Lewis and Clarke; but they attained their destined station on the 9th of September. The detachment was, however, less fortunate; for, after reaching the Konzas, and receiving a hospitable welcome from the Indians on that river, they were met and plundered by a war party of Pawnees, and had no other resource than to rejoin their companions with the utmost expedition. The commencement of October was spent in different councils, and negotiations, with the neighbouring tribes of Indians, under the direction of Major O'Fallan, the Indian agent of the American government, whose representations were effectually supported by the vicinity of a military force. In the meantime, the exploring party prepared for their winter residence, which was fixed in a spot, called Engineer Cantonment, a short distance from Council Bluff. The necessary arrangements being completed, Major Long returned to Washington, leaving orders for a more particular examination of the surrounding country in his absence. Such a sojourn enabled the party to study the habits, customs, and character of the Indians; and to collect much curious information with respect to the Pawnees, Konzas, Omawhaws, Sioux, and other native tribes, who frequent the upper course of the Missouri. This part of the work will be perused with interest, by those who delight to contemplate mankind in the various stages of savage life. Early in spring Major Long returned, and, in his route, crossed a part of the country, little known, by proceeding in a direct line on the eastern side of the Missouri, from Fort Charaton to Council Bluff. On the 6th of June they commenced the second and most arduous part of their journey, by diverging westward into a vast wilderness, remote from all the aids and comforts of civilized society, and compelled to depend, for their chief subsistence, on their skill and fortune in hunting. Their portable provisions consisted only of a supply of biscuit and Indian corn parched; and their instrutheir course, of a sextant of five ments, for ascertaining and directing inches radius, a box sextant, an artificial horizon, three travelling compasses, and a patent lever watch. Their mode of travelling was not adapted to the conveyance of a barometer, which would have been highly useful; but they had two thermometers, to ascertain the temperature of the air. The party were provided with a competent number of horses and mules, with tents for shelter, arms and ammunition, and a small supply of Indian goods for presents. Their route was first directed towards the Pawnee villages, situated on the Loup fork, a little above its confluence with the Platte. They transported their baggage across the Elkhorn in a species of canoe, of Indian invention, formed of a bison's skin, drawn into the shape of a basin, by a rope, and kept distended by its contents. They then traversed catching a distant view of the narthe extensive prairie of the Platte, row line of wood, which marks its course; and, on the 11th of June, reached the dwellings of the Pawnees, from whom they expected information for their future guidance. Their reception here was, however, far from gracious; and no representation appears to have been spared, which was likely to deter them from their purpose. At length they procured three guides, who were not only well acquainted with the languages and habits of the Indians, in this quarter, but also with the language of signs-an acquirement which, from the number and diversity of the different dialects, is often an indispensable medium of communication. On the 14th of June they drew towards the Platte, and directed their course up its northern bank. They found the scenery uninteresting and monotonous : either side an unvaried plain, from two to ten miles wide, bounded by higher ground, the surface of which rile; the river broad and shallow, was undulating, and incurably ste on fordable at every point, when not swollen by floods; the bed sandy, and the range from low to high water not exceeding eight feet. From these peculiarities it derives its name of the Platte or Flat River. On the 22d of June they reached the confluence of the north and south forks, where they forded both streams, without dismounting, though the breadth of the latter was not less than 900 yards; and pursued their course up the southern bank. Such was the scarcity of wood, that they here found a difficulty in collecting sufficient to light a fire. Their vicinity to what are called the salt licks, was announced by herds of bisons, wild horses, deer, and other animals, swarming in every direction; and their curiosity was excited by a variety of curious and interesting plants, scattered over the plain. the height of 150 or 200 feet, and serving as a species of skreen to the grand Alpine mass behind. They fixed their camp opposite to a chasm, which affords egress to the waters of the Platte. On the 26th, a diminution of the heat, which had hitherto been oppressive, was considered as indicating their approach to the mountains; and, on the 30th, in the morning, they had the satisfaction of catching the first view of this magnificent natural barrier. At first seen faintly like distant clouds, its outline was soon marked in bold indentations on the luminous margin of the sky; and in the midst appeared a point, divided into three summits, which is distinguished by Lieutenant Pike as the highest peak. At this period of the journey, the evaporation was so rapid, as to produce a mirage, like that observed in the deserts of Egypt; and the effect so beautiful and perfect, as to deceive the whole of the party. Here commenced the first of their privations; for their stock of biscuit being nearly exhausted, was supplied by parched maize, of which a gill was distributed to each man daily. They calculated on attaining the limit of their journey by the 4th of July, the anniversary of American independence; but they were obliged to hold their course over the same monotonous surface till the 6th, when they at length reached the base of the mountains, after a weary progress of nearly a thousand miles. They found the plain terminated by a range of naked and almost perpendicular sandstone rocks, rising abruptly to On a nearer examination of the sand-stone range, they observed such different degrees of obliquity in its strata, as induced them to conclude, that it had been detached by some powerful agent from the horizontal strata found on the plains. It is separated from the primitive granitic range by a valley about a mile in width, through which are scattered numerous insulated columnar rocks, sometimes of a snowy white, and interspersed with mounds, formed by the decomposition of similar masses. The lower parts contain exclusive beds of conglomerate, or pudding stone, often of a reddish hue; and in the more compact portions are found the remains of sub-marine animals. This stony rampart is intersected by all the large streams which descend into the plain. The Platte is here about twenty-five yards wide, with an average depth of three feet, the waters clear and cool, and the current rapid. On the 7th of July they crossed the Platte, in order to climb the mountain. Passing the rampart of sandstone, they began to ascend the primitive range, under an oppressive degree of heat, and found the rocks more abrupt than they expected. The surface was destitute of vegetation, except the prickly pear and yucca, and a few stunted oaks or junipers: the mass an aggregate of felspar and hornblende, approaching in character to sienite. Advancing westward, the hornblende became more and more predominant, and the fissures between the lamina nearly perpendicular, giving it the columnar structure of trap. A few interesting insects and plants were discovered; and occasionally appeared a hardy ever-green, whose short and knarled trunk, and recurved branches, showed the force and frequency of the storms it had withstood. After climbing several ridges successively, each of which they supposed to be the summit, they still found others beyond, more lofty and rugged. They halted to rest; and placing the thermometer under the shade of a large rock, found the temperature 720, while in the camp below it was 86°. From this elevation the Platte appeared like a small brook, formed of two branches, one descending from the north-west, and the other from the south, and uniting a short distance before its exit from the chasm, in the mural precipice of sandstone. At noon they began to descend, and experienced no less fatigue than in their ascent, being exhausted with heat, and oppressed with thirst. At length quitting the precipitous parts, they traversed a rugged tract, encumbered by fragments detached from above, and in a narrow ravine were gratified to find shelter, and a spring of cool water. Here one of the party was seized with a sudden and violent indisposition, which they attributed to some ripe currants, gathered and eaten on the mountain. While another was despatched to the camp for assistance, they heard a loud noise, as if some large animal was mounting the defile. They presently saw a huge bear advancing towards them at full speed; but giving him a volley with their rifles, he sprang up an almost perpendicular precipice, and disappeared in an instant. The sick man recovering, they returned slowly, and reached the camp late in the evening. Another party afterwards penetrated on the left bank of the Platte, and ascended a primitive mountain, which appeared of superior elevation, but found the horizon to the west still bounded by succeeding heights, towering majestically above. Looking towards the plain, on the east, its undulations disappeared, and it stretched like a map before them. The Platte, and other streams, either meandered amidst slight fringes of wood, or glittered like silver in the sun-beams, while light and feathery clouds, flitting over the surface of heaven, cast their shadows on the earth, and enhanced the beauty of the scene. On the 9th of July they directed their steps southward, traversed the ridge dividing the waters of the Platte from those of the Arkansa, and proceeded along the base of the mountain, having on the left the sandstone ridge, and on the right the brown and naked granite, rising above in shapeless masses. Occasionally they caught, through fis sures worn by the torrents, a view of the distant summits glittering with eternal snow. Winding their way with considerable exertion, amidst precipitous ledges of rock, they approached the point where the Arkansa emerges, and established their camp for a stay sufficiently long to ascertain the height of the mountains in this quarter. While some of the detachment were employed in a trigonometrical measurement, others engaged in a new ascent. They first visited what are called the boiling springs, and found them resembling, in taste and effect, the highly aërated mineral waters. The ebullition appeared to be caused by a considerable discharge of gas, and the temperature was about 68°. Mounting upwards, they observed the same succession of rocks as before; but their progress was much more laborious, not only from the steepness of the ascent, but from the loose and dangerous footing it afforded. After thus toiling, for the space of two miles, they were compelled to pass the night in a spot where they could no otherwise secure themselves from rolling down the precipice, than by placing a pole against two trees. The next day, resuming their efforts, they at length attained a distinct view of the peak, which was the object of their ambition; but it still appeared distant, and the ascent steep. Here the character of the rock changed to a fine grained aggregate of quartz, felspar, and hornblende---the latter in small proportion. Continuing to ascend, they passed the region of wood, which formed a definite line encircling the peak; and though from the plain it appeared near the summit, was now found scarcely to reach half its elevation. Above, they entered a tract of peculiar beauty, and equal interest, for its botanical productions. The intervals of soil were clothed with a carpet of low but brilliantly coloured alpine plants, chiefly with matted procumbent stems, and, including the flower, scarcely more than an inch in height. The prevailing tint was a deep blue. After a short halt, they determined to proceed, at the risk of passing the night on the mountain. They collected numerous unknown plants, but vegetation ceased entirely as they approached the summit, which con to the Rocky Mountains tained an area of ten or fifteen acres, On the 16th of July they moved , stretching, in width, from ten to thirty miles, and watered by beautiful streams: the soil deep, and the surface undulating, and well adapted to cultivation. Having obtained from a solitary Kaskaia Indian some information respecting the route to the Red River, the Expedition separated on the 24th of July. Captain Bell, with one party, was left to descend the Arkansa; and Major Long, with ten men, six horses, and eight mules, proceeded southward in order to reach the Red River. With infinite labour and difficulty they traversed the ridge two streams, by between these ascending and descending deep, gloomy, and rugged ravines, worn by the tributary waters on either side, and suffering at the same time from heat and fatigue, hunger and thirst. On the 4th of August they at length descried the river, which they deemed the object of their search; and its Its bed was sixty appearance seemed to justify the supposition. yards wide, forty of which were naked sand; and the water, which was about ten inches deep, was intensely red, and of the temperature of new milk. It was not, however, unpleasant to drink, and produced no disagreeable effect. The valley through which it flowed was bounded by hills, from 100 to 200 feet high, with a deep sandy soil. In their progress downwards, they encountered, on the 9th of August, a party of Kaskaia Indians, amounting, with women and children, to 250; provided with numerous horses, and armed with bows and arrows. By these people they were informed, that they were on the Red River, and at their invitation passed the night in their camp; but the next morning it appeared that these attentions only covered a purpose of plunder; from which the savages were at length deterred by the dread of their rifles. From the 12th to the 16th of August they continued their toilsome journey, parching under the rays of a vertical sun; with a temperature from 100° to 105°, which seemed to dry the scanty vegetation to ashes, and annoyed by showers of drifted burning sand, which penetrated through every part of their dress, and almost deprived them of the power of guiding their horses. The bed of the river, in some places, was expanded to a width of 1400 yards; On the 17th they halted in a small valley, which presented a more cheering aspect. The low elms, with which it was tufted, were bending under the weight of innumerable grape vines, laden with such a profusion of purple clusters, as to give colour to the landscape. On the opposite side of the river was a range of low sand hills, fringed with vines, which appeared to rise not more than eighteen inches above the surface. On examination, they found these hills produced by accumulations of sand, which, burying every part, except the upper branches, had performed the office of the pruning knife. The clusters of grapes were. so abundant as to hide the stems, and the fruit surpassed in richness and flavour that of any native or exotic of the United States. From the 18th to the 24th, the country began to improve in appearance, and a succession of showers occasionally tempered the heat of the air. Their supply of meal, or parched maize, being at this period entirely exhausted, they had no other alternative than to eat their bison flesh or venison, without salt or condiment of any kind. suffered also considerable inconveThey nience from the scarcity of water. By digging in the sand, they had procured sufficient for drinking, and for the purposes of cookery; but the want of the means of ablution, during so long a period, was severely felt. On the 29th of August they found the hills based on a variety of sandstone, differing from the glaring red rock, which had marked their progress from the mountains. The elevations now became higher and more abrupt, the woods more extensive, the streams of water more frequent, and the aspect of the country in general indicated their approach to a more mountainous region. Their annoyances were augmented by swarms of blowing flies, which scarcely permitted them even to dress their meat; and by multitudes of minute wood ticks, which penetrated the feet and legs, and produced intolerable itching, pain, and inflammation. served, for the first time, a regular On the 5th of September they obcurrent of water in the bed of the river, and a few miles below, reached the confluence of the great North ble stream. Continuing their profork, which discharged a consideragress, they passed several rapids, and at length, on the 9th, they found the river, which they had traced for nearly 800 miles, flowing into the Arkansa. picions they already began to enterThis confirmed the sustain, that they had mistaken the Canadian for the Red River. The disappointment arising from this their utter inability to remedy it, in error was the more deeply felt, from their wearied and exhausted condition. thick forest, they had the satisfaction After penetrating through a of emerging near the haunts of men, on the 13th of September; and at in the heart of the Ozark mountains, Fort Smith, situated on the Arkansa, they experienced that kindness and attention which their fatigues and privations rendered doubly welcome. followed the course of the Arkansa, We now revert to the party who under the direction of Captain Bell. On the 26th of August they met a whom they experienced much saconsiderable body of Indians, from vage hospitality. This horde consisted of Kiawas, Kaskaias, Shiennes, and Arrapahoes, and differed in statribes on the Missouri. ture, features, and habits, from the For three settled habitation, wandering about years they had been without any the head waters and tributaries of the Red River; and they decamped with a degree of rapidity, method, and tomed to the habits of a vagrant life. alertness, which proved them accus dilated, and was occasionally studAs the party descended, the stream ded with small islands. The general aspect of the country was, however, occurred, to give character to their sterile and uninteresting. Nothing journey, except meeting with two parties of Indians, till the 5th of August, when they found themselves surrounded with countless herds of dissonant sounds of the former bisons and antelopes; the loud and making one continued roar, not ill associated with the idea of barren and inhospitable wastes. 7th, having passed the range of the On the great Indian war tracks, they dis |