Gneisenau, whom he called Blucher's head, from the circumstance that he laid the plans which Blucher executed, was then commanding in Coblentz, and he told us, to the honour of the general, that at that time he had a service of plate just arrived from Paris, which he immediately consecrated to the relief of the distressed.* Labour is very cheap, a franc and a half per day, is the ordinary wages.

The people here are catholics. Education is general. The schools are obliged to educate the children of the poor, gratis; so that there are very few who cannot read and write.

We embarked again upon the Rhine, at Cob lentz, this morning at seven o'clock, and landed here about half-past six this evening. We took our provisions with us on board the boat, in consequence of which we experienced no delay. The Rhine was by no means so interesting to-day as yesterday. The scenery is less bold and romantic, and at Bon, two-thirds of the distance from Cob❤ lentz, we lost the hills altogether, and the country became flat, and not a little insipid, after the grand features we had left behind. From Coblentz the reaches of the river became longer, and more

* I rejoice to add, that the King of Prussia has since rewarded the benevolent general, by a present of another service of plate, more valuable than that which he se generously devoted.

expanded--the islands more numerous, and the hills on either side more fertile and luxuriant. Before reaching Bon, we passed the seven mountains, and particularly marked the ruins of the castle of Drachenfels, that crown the nearest and most abrupt of the seven, which rises almost perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of about 1500 feet. This rock is almost entirely bare and very rugged— the rest are beautifully adorned with wood, and some of them are considerably higher. There are many curious and interesting traditions amongst the people in the neighbourhood, respecting these ruined castles of the Rhine. Some of them are related in the guide which we have with us, and none are more interesting than that of Drachenfels.

The view of Cologne from the Rhine is very imposing, from its numerous spires and public edifices. In its bay you have the first sight of any thing like shipping and commerce. It also has a flying bridge like that at Coblentz. It is a place of great antiquity, and is the oppidum ubiorum of the Romans. In more modern times it was one of the first cities in Germany, but it is now under the government of Prussia, and is fallen much into decay. Though it stands upon eight times as much ground as Coblentz, it has but four times its number of inhabitants-there are 8,800 houses. There are at present manufactories of ribands, lace, and stockings.

The antiquities of Cologne are many and interesting. The cathedral, called the Dôme, is in an unfinished state, but as far as it is built, it is a most sublime structure-and if it should ever be completed, according to the original plan, it will unquestionably be one of the noblest edifices in Europe, and, perhaps, the largest and most stately of its cathedrals. It is in truth, as our guide calls it-Un des plus beaux morceaux de l'ancienne architecture Allemande. Its foundations were laid in 1248, by Archbishop Conrad, of Hochstaden.--The nave is supported by a quadruple colonnade of one hundred columns. These columns are immense, yet their appearance is light and elegant. The chancel is complete and used for worship. It is fitted up in the richest style, and hung with tapestry. Its altar is most splendid, and it has a great profusion of painted glass in its windows. The roof is immensely high, and suggests to the beholder what, when completed, must be the elevation of the towers to bear any proportion to such a roof. The towers were to have been five hundred feet high. One, however, is not more than twenty-one from the ground, and the other not half the intended elevation. The monuments in the choir are innumerable and most magnificent.

There is a library connected with the cathedral, and a chamber, called the chambre d'or, which contains many sacred utensils and sacerdotal garments

of immense value, which were saved from the ruin of the revolution, and restored to the church in 1804.

The church of St. Mary, or Capitole, is not less remarkable than the Dôme. It was in the chapitre of this church that the unfortunate Maria de Medicis, wife of Henry IV. and mother of Louis XIII. ended her days in misery, after having been banished from France by the intrigues of Richelieu.

Indeed, there would be no end to putting down the churches that are and have been in this city. At one period there were no less than two hundred and twelve.

Your's, &c.

LETTER XXVII.

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

MY DEAR

BEFORE leaving Cologne, we repaired to the church of St. Pierre, to see the celebrated painting of the martyrdom of St. Peter, over the altar. It is esteemed one of the finest works of Rubens, and was painted by that great master, as a present to his parish church-for in this parish he was born, and in this church he was baptized. It is a sublime effort of the pencil. I am no connoisseur-but I must confess that I never experienced such emotions at the sight of a picture before. The writhing of the body in agony-the distension of every muscle-the anguish of the countenance-the nerve of the executioner, who is about to nail the last limb, (the left arm) to the cross -are all so forcibly depicted, that the illusion is too much for a spectator of sensibility, and you soon begin to feel as though it were the reality upon which you gaze. This picture was taken by Buonaparte to swell the treasures of the Louvre.