will prolong the blooming season till February; and during this and the three following months forced Roses may be obtained in beauty and abundance.

These are the principal advantages gained by growing Roses in pots. But we would not press our favourite immodestly on the attention of our readers. Suffice it to record our opinion: if the Rose is a suitable plant for Pot-culture, it will undoubtedly continue to gain friends; if not, no praise of ours can essentially serve it.

In entering on this branch of culture, the first point that should engage our attention is to provide a good heap of soil for the plants to grow in. The groups and varieties differing greatly in their nature and habits, it will appear reasonable that more than one sort will be required, if all kinds are to receive that most suitable. All like a rich soil, which should be made light for the delicaterooting varieties, and more tenacious for the robust hardy kinds.

To form a light soil, procure one barrow of seasoned turfy loam, half a barrow of well decomposed stable manure, half a barrow of leaf mould, and silver sand in proportion to the texture of the loam, which will in no case require more than one-fourth of its own bulk.

The heavy soil may be composed of one barrow of stiff turfy loam, one barrow of night-soil that has been mixed with loam, as previously advised (see p. 29, Div. I.), and laid by for a year, half a barrow of leaf-mould or well-pulverized manure, and sand as before recommended.

Night-soil may be thought too powerful a manure, but it may be used with safety, provided it has been mixed with loam, and well-seasoned previously by frequent turnings. The addition of about one-sixth of a barrow of burnt earth will be found to improve both composts. The materials should be thrown together at least three months before required for use, and turned frequently, that the integrant parts may become well incorporated, and ripened by exposure to the sun and air. The sieve is in neither case necessary, for as large pots will be principally used, the coarser, in moderation, the soil is, the better will the plants thrive.

It is our intention, at the end of this Work, to give a list of the kinds thought most suitable for Pot-culture; but as many may prefer searching our descriptive lists for themselves, let us here consider what features are most worthy of notice when selecting for this purpose. In the Pamphlet on the Cultivation of Roses in Pots,* published three years since, the following points were given, and I do not know that I can offer any further suggestions:

1. Elegance of habit; regarding both growth and manner of flowering. 2. Contrast of colour.

3. Abundance of bloom.

* Observations on the Cultivation of Roses in Pots, &c., by W. Paul. Sherwood and Co., London.

4. Form or individual outline of the flowers.

5. Duration and constant succession of bloom. 6. Sweetness.

What, says the tyro, can we find so many good properties combined in one variety? Can we obtain a Rose of an elegant habit, an abundant bloomer, the outline of whose flowers is at the same time perfect, remaining a long time in full beauty, and that is very sweet? Truly, such cases are rare. Few have a claim on all these points, but some combine them more intimately than others; and it is these we should choose.

Roses intended for growing in pots may be either on their own roots or on short stems: the Tea-scented and Chinese kinds are undoubtedly better in the former way. Let us suppose any number of young plants are obtained on their own roots in 60-sized pots in the spring of the year. In the first place, they should be shifted into 48 or 32-sized pots, according to the rate of growth of the plant, and the quantity of roots it has made; then plunge them, seeing that they are watered as often as the soil becomes dry. I believe that Roses cultivated to bloom at their natural period cannot be placed in too airy a situation; therefore I would keep them constantly plunged in an open spot in the garden, removing the tender kinds only, on the approach of winter, for shelter against frost.

Some object to plunging, and prefer placing the pots on the level ground, packing moss, cinder ashes, or sawdust between them. Practically speaking, it seems to matter but little; and, whichever plan is adopted, there are two things to guard against the ingress of worms from the ground, and the egress of the roots from the hole in the bottom of the pot. If the roots find their way into the ground there will be few formed in the pot; and the result will be, a more vigorous, but less perfect, growth: and if the plants are required to be removed at the time of flowering, they will receive a severe check. Both of these occurrences must therefore be prevented, by placing the pots on inverted seed-pans.

It must not be expected that the plants will all maintain the same rate of growth some will grow vigorously, others not so. Now, although we would not wish to deprive the cultivator altogether of the reward of his care and labour-the flowers, yet we would say, a few only should be suffered to develope themselves the first year, and the seed-vessels should be cut off when the flowers drop. The aim throughout the growing season should be to get a few stout, well-ripened shoots by autumn-shoots that will bear strong pressure between the finger and thumb without giving any indication of softness, for it is these which will produce strong and perfect blooms.

The way to accomplish this is to place the plants a good distance from each other, and, as the young shoots form, they should be set wide apart, that they may enjoy the full sunlight. From the earliest period of growth, it is necessary to look them over occasionally, with the design of encouraging such shoots as maintain the best position, and checking those whose tendency is to exclude others from a (Div. I.) $ 3

fair rate of growth, and destroy the symmetry of the plants. Weak shoots should be cut out, and disbudding practised freely. If two or three eyes burst from the same point, threatening to crowd or cross each other, a portion should be at once removed.

Most of the plants shifted into 48 or 32-sized pots in spring will, if they flourish well, require a second shift in July, when 24 and 16-sized pots may be made use of, and the same soil as before. When re-potting, the crock may be removed from the bottom of the ball, and the surface soil, which is apt to become sour, rubbed carefully away, so far as can be done without disturbing the roots. A nice judg ment is required in shifting the Chinese and Tea-scented Roses, as they are very liable to suffer from over-potting. As a guide on this point, turn them carefully out of the pots once or twice a-year to examine the roots: if found protruding from the ball of earth in great abundance, place the plants in larger pots; if it be otherwise, put them back in the same. The hardy and robust growers may, however, be cultivated on the one-shift system, that is, changed at once from small to large pots; but this treatment will not suit the small and delicate growers.

Annexed (No. 27) is shewn a plant two years old, having been grown the first year in a smaller pot. It is now autumn, and it is losing its leaves. It needs no thinning, as it has been disbudded during spring and summer, on the principles No. 27.

advanced in our Chapter on Pruning. We now shorten the branches at the points where the lines intersect; and, by continuing to practice disbudding, we obtain a handsome and well-flowered plant the following summer.

After it is pruned, the shoots should be staked out at as great distances as possible: those that are left long ought to be made to lie almost horizontal, by bending them down, that the buds may be induced to break regularly from their summit to the base. Great care is required in this operation, as the wood of some kinds is extremely brittle. If, however, the long shoots be allowed to maintain an upright position, the probability is, that two or three buds only at their top will break, which, by their exuberant growth, keep the lower eyes dormant, which are required to form a compact and well-regulated plant. But it is not necessary to keep them long bent; for so soon as the eyes have burst, the shoots may be tied up again. With regard to training, each cultivator will likely acquire a plan of his own. But of this hereafter.

Watering should be carefully attended to throughout the growing season. The quantity to be given must depend mainly on the state of the plants, the weather, and the porosity of the soil. As a general rule, Roses require but little water during autumn and winter. In spring, when the buds first break, occasional syringings are of infinite service. As the plants advance in growth, thereby acquiring a greater surface of foliage, and as the sun gains greater power, the quantity may be increased; and when in full leaf, and throughout the growing season, an abundance should be given. In making these remarks, we are supposing the water to have free egress through the rubble at the bottom of the pots, a condition essential for the health and perfect growth of the plants.

Manure water is found beneficial. The use of it imparts a freshness and dark green hue to the foliage, and increases the vigour of the plants. It should not, however, be given too frequently, nor in too concentrated a form. If guano is used, an ounce to a gallon of water is sufficient. It is well to watch the effects of the dose given, to guard against an overgrowth, and regulate the supply accordingly. Perhaps the plants cannot grow too vigorously, provided the wood can be well ripened before winter. There is the point. But, as we cannot ensure a sunny autumn, which is necessary for the perfecting of strong shoots, a moderate growth is safer. Camphor-water an eminent Rose Amateur has advised me, from his own experience, to try; but I am as yet unable to publish any satisfactory results. It is said to add new brilliancy to the flowers. Certainly, it is a safe application, and no injurious influences are likely to arise from its use.

In addition to our pains-taking to promote the growth of our plants, we have to guard against enemies and diseases. The Rose grub, which is most prevalent early in the season, requires close watching, and should be destroyed by handpicking. I have picked a score off a single Pot-plant. Wherever a curled leaf, or shoot without a growing point, meets the eye, this destructive insect will be found. The mischief has perhaps been done in part, for it is seldom that he can

be discovered, except by the effects he produces; but let us catch him as soon as we can, and much mischief is prevented. He eats and destroys when young, but when he arrives at maturity he is a perfect gourmand, travelling from shoot to shoot, spreading devastation in his track; and if he reach the moth state we may calculate on a numerous progeny the next year. I had a lot of plants remarkably free from these pests one season, which I could only account for by the fact that they were closely sought and destroyed the year before.

The Aphis, or Green-fly, may be destroyed by removing the plants to a pit or house, and smoking them: it may be kept away by dipping the ends of the shoots in, or syringing with, tobacco water, or by laying the shoot in the palm of the hand, and brushing the fly off.

There is a very small canary-coloured fly, which did great mischief among Roses last season. They are generally found on the back of the leaf, close to the midrib, eating the leaf, working from the under side, and not only disfiguring, but injuring the plants. They are remarkably active. By giving the plant a tap, they will rise instantly in the air, fly round, and settle again on the leaves. As they were too nimble to be dealt with as their more sluggish compeers in mischief, I applied sulphur and snuff in equal portions, dusting the mixture on the back of the leaves when wet, and found it prove an excellent remedy.

A long thin caterpillar, the larva of a saw-fly, committed great havoc among Roses in many places last year. They came in such myriads upon a Rose Garden in this county that the plants were almost stripped of their leaves before their course could be arrested. Hand-picking was resorted to, by which means they were ultimately got rid of.

The red fungus, which often attacks Roses out of doors late in autumn, may visit the Pot-plants; and should it do so, the leaves where it appears should be carefully rubbed between the finger and thumb, using a little sulphur in the operation.

Mildew is sometimes a source of great annoyance. Watering with a solution of nitre is said to destroy it. If the situation is airy and sunny, there is little to fear on this account. Forced Roses are more subject to it, and, when speaking of these, it will require a brief notice.

We have followed our plants through the first training season. They have been shifted twice, once in spring, and again in July. In autumn they will be well established, when a portion may be selected for forcing, and part left for blooming at other periods.

If to produce large and handsome specimens quickly is the point aimed at, we would advise sacrificing the bloom in part, even the second training season, by pinching out some of the flower-buds so soon as they are formed. The same routine of culture will require to be gone through now as in the first season, availing ourselves of whatever knowledge we may have gained by experience and observation. But a new source of amusement now opens upon us, and one which will discover and exercise our taste. The first year little training is necessary;