thing may depend on use. The scissors are, however, very convenient for gathering flowers, and for cutting off the flower-stalks when they grow shabby, or begin to decay.

There are three principal ends sought in Rose pruning, each of which carries with it a degree of weight, and should be kept distinctly in view; and let it be borne in mind, that on the judicious use of the pruning-knife their perfect accomplishment more or less depends: they are

1. To maintain a plant or tree in full health and vigour.

2. To induce it to assume a form at once agreeable to the eye, and advantageous for the development of its blossoms.

3. To secure an abundance of fine flowers.

1. To maintain a tree in full health and vigour.

We are told that the extraordinary vigour and beauty of some plants on which goats had been browzing first gave the ancients the idea of pruning. Certainly no one in the present day would dispute the advantages of it. Cultivators can only be at variance as to the mode of action, and the season at which the operation should be performed. If we leave a Rose-tree unpruned for one year, a great number of buds will burst forth, producing a vast quantity of blossoms, but both shoots and flowers will be comparatively thin and puny. If such tree be left unpruned for two or three successive years, it will become greatly enfeebled; the ends of the yearling shoots will die back for want of nourishment, and thus are reduced the number of buds capable of development during the subsequent year. Here we see one end of pruning naturally accomplished. But it is not sufficiently so. The flowers continue to degenerate, till at length they can be scarcely recognised: the tree dwindles, presents an unhealthy appearance, and pruning must be the first means applied for its restoration.

2. To induce a plant or tree to assume a form at once agreeable to the eye, and advantageous for the development of its flowers.

The formation of a tree is a point deserving of the closest attention; for if the form is inelegant it cannot but displease, however healthy and vigorous it may be, or what the degree of beauty the flowers it produces. Should the latter be forming small, their size may be increased by lessening their number, or by a timely application of manure-water; but for the improvement of the form of a tree there is no such ready remedy. The flowers, too, are but transitory: the shape of the tree is lasting; it remains to view after they are gone. To form a handsome tree, it is necessary to take it in hand when young: it is then easy to fashion, as taste, or a view to its permanent weal, may require. But if it has become straggling, from unskilful management or other causes, it is often difficult to re-model, sometimes requiring the patience and skill of two, or even three seasons. Before we commence the pruning of a Rose, whether it be a bush or a tree, it is therefore well to determine the shape it shall assume, and then frame all our operations with

a view to its accomplishment. Perhaps a form at the same time pleasing and advantageous is that of a half oval; for in such all the shoots and branches get a due portion of air and sunlight, and the under ones are not excluded from view, which they often are in round-headed trees. The varieties of spreading growth are most easily brought into this form, but the principle is applicable to all. The next aim in Rose pruning is

3. To secure an abundance of fine flowers.

If the health and vigour of a tree are affected by pruning, the flowers, depending so much on these conditions, must also be affected by the same operation.

When about to prune a Rose, I first look to the name, that I may know the habit and character of the variety I have to deal with. I must know whether it is a summer or perpetual bloomer; a strong or weakly grower; and whether the flowers are produced fine from low, middle, and top eyes indiscriminately, or not. It is only by knowing and considering these points that we can prune with accuracy, and ensure full success.

It is an axiom in Rose pruning, that the more vigorous in habit a plant is, the more shoots should be thinned out, and the less should those which are left be shortened in. This has in view, in particular, the production of flowers in the most perfect condition. The eyes near the base of those kinds which form short shoots (especially the Autumnals), usually produce the best flowers; and in the vigorous. growers we prefer, for the same reason, the eyes about the middle of the shoot, or nearer its summit if the wood be well ripened. But there is a question arising here which it may be well to glance at before proceeding further. All Roses make two growths in the year; first in Spring, and again in Summer shortly after they have flowered. Some of the Autumnals start afresh at short intervals throughout Summer and Autumn; but we wish at the present time to speak of the Spring and Summer's growth only, and to ask which we should look to as calculated to produce the finest flowers.

When the shoots formed in Summer are well ripened we should prefer them, and for these reasons. The growth at that season is generally more rapid, and, in consequence, the shoots, although usually of less strength, are freer in the bark; the eyes are more plump and prominent, and well stored with the juices required to supply nourishment and promote growth. Nevertheless, it is only a question of flowers that would induce us to prefer the Summer wood; for when we look to the forming of the tree, we shall find it necessary, in most cases, to prune back to the growth of Spring, to keep the form elegant. Still it is well to bear in mind that the wood grown during Summer usually produces the finest flowers, that we may make the best of the materials beneath our hand; for it does sometimes happen that we may prune to the Summer's growth with advantage to the tree, and it is often a matter of indifference whether we do so or not.

With these remarks on pruning in general, we proceed to consider it in its special application, under the following heads, as applied to Standards and Dwarfs (Div. I.)

m

indiscriminately: 1. Long Pruning, suited to varieties of vigorous growth. 2. Close Pruning, suited to kinds of small growth. 3. Pillar Roses. 4. Weeping Roses.

1. Long pruning. This must be applied to the strongest growers: such are, the greater part of the Hybrid Chinese, the vigorous in the groups Moss, Damask, Noisette, and Bourbon, &c., which form large heads, of rather loose, but not always inelegant growth.

If we remove many shoots from a strong growing Rose, or shorten the shoots in very closely, the result, as previously stated, will be a vigorous growth, but few or no flowers; and the shoots may be developed so gross, as to render the flowering for the subsequent year partial or void. This is more to be feared when dealing with Summer Roses and established plants, than with the Autumnals or newly-planted ones. To what endless disappointment have those fine old Roses, Beauty of Billard, Brennus, and Fulgens, given rise from not blooming freely. I have heard them branded as shy, bad bloomers, not worthy of place in any garden. "Grow they do," says the cultivator, "and that most vigorously, but refuse to shadow forth a single blossom." Now we would ask, Should the blame, if blame there be, be attached to the varieties? Is it natural for them not to flower? Or does this state of things arise from the system of cultivation? We sometimes see them produce abundance of flowers, and pronounce them perfect; then surely the former is not the case. They, and numerous others of like habit-vigorous growers require long pruning: that is, a sufficient portion of the shoots should be cut away at their base, which is called thinning out, to allow a free admission of air and light into the heart of the tree; then the shoots which remain after thinning should be left long. If they are cut close, the eyes are developed as wood shoots, and not as flower-shoots; and this is the cause of their not blooming.

The treatment of plants from the bud will be alluded to elsewhere (see Budding); and as few comparatively have to deal with them in this rude state, I shall commence here with one-year budded plants, such as are usually purchased at the grounds of the Rose-growers. Of such No. 8 is a representation. Let us look closely at it, and, while doing so, bear in mind that it is a young plant. Now what is the object of paramount importance this year? Shall we look solely to the formation of the tree? Can we wait till Autumn for the flowers of the Autumnals, and till the next year for those of the Summer kinds? If we can, we shall receive a good return for doing so. Let us assume, then, the first effort to be to establish the plant, and to put it in a right course of formation. With this end in view, we prune more closely the first year after transplanting than at any subsequent period. Let us suppose the specimen before us required to take the shape of a half oval. What is the first step? It has been budded in two places, and has seven shoots. This is too many: we must therefore remove some. this stage of a tree, pruning is not complicated: the number of shoots is few, and we see our way pretty clearly. Three shoots are thought sufficient to remain

In

No. 8..

Long Pruning, Stage 1.

here, and let us select any three which may seem most advantageously situated, and imagine the others absent. We may try this experiment on different shoots, if we are not satisfied with our first choice. To us the shoots shewn by the dark shadowing seem best placed, and our first step is to thin out the others shewn by the single lines. This renders the object clear, and, if it be one of the exciteable kinds, finishes Autumn pruning. In Spring we shorten the shoots that remain at the termination of the dark shadowing (a). The plant is pruned, and it may be said with truth, its appearance is not improved. But the question is not, How does it look when newly pruned? for when properly pruned it often presents a sorry appearance. The question is, How will it look when each of the shoots left triples or quadruples itself? Many cultivators spoil their trees by pruning in fear. It is well to be cautious, but it is seldom that the novice errs by pruning too much. But what considerations have guided us in our operations here? Seven shoots is the greatest number that should be suffered to remain on a young plant, and, in general, a less number is preferable. One or two should rise perpendicularly about the centre of the tree, and round this or these all others should be regularly disposed; and the more equal and greater distances that can be contrived from shoot to shoot the better. The shoots, wherever they arise, should have a tendency to grow from the centre; for if they grow towards it they will eventually cross each other, forming a confused and crowded head. In the above illustration it will be seen that every shoot has this tendency.

The aim in thinning should be to leave those shoots which are firmest and healthiest, provided they are placed at nearly equal distances. Care should be taken to cut the shoots close to their base: the wounds then heal over in Spring and Summer, and the trees are grown clean and perfect. If the cut is not made quite close, an eye at the base may burst forth and grow with extraordinary vigour at a point where not wanted, and rob the other branches of their food, and produce an uneven plant. Or should it not be so, the wood will die back, sometimes introducing decay into the heart of the tree. Sear snags and stumps, which are sometimes met with in old specimens, are due to the slovenly practice of leaving an inch or so on the bottom of shoots which should have been cut clean out.

When shortening in, the lowest shoots should, where practicable, be left the longest; and the others may be shortened in closer and closer as we rise towards the summit of the tree. The centre branch will, from its position, command a free supply of sap, and it is likely that it will maintain the ascendancy. Now the shoots shortened closest will, cæteris paribus, produce the strongest growth, with the greatest tendency to rise perpendicularly, and thus the head is formed as desired. In shortening the branches, we should insert the knife at b, on the opposite side of the shoot to that on which the bud next below is placed; and we should cut in a direction slanting upward, about the eighth of an inch above the bud. But let us turn to the next stage of the above plant, No. 9. We left it pruned