order in the parts of the house, not to associate the idea or word, which had been previously annexed to each part. The succession of the kings of England may be learned, in a short time, by annexing the name of each succeeding monarch, to the successive room, closet, or part of the house: beginning either at the top or bottom. A single room, divided into many imaginary compartments a succession of streets or any other permanent and familiar set of objects is equally applicable to this purpose.

SELECT BOOKS.

The New Art of Memory, third edition, greatly improved; containing the whole of Feinaigle's System, and also Lowe's Mnemonics being an improvement of Grey :-sold by Sherwood and Co. Paternoster Row. Watts on the Mind, 12m0.

PART XII.-MISCELLANIES.

CHAP. I.

GARDENING.

THE principal circumstances that merit attention in the laying out of gardens, are, situation, soil, water, and prospect; the most eligible of which we shall briefly state.

1. The situation ought to be neither too elevated, nor too low; for if a garden be too high, it will be exposed to the attacks of the winds, which are very detrimental to trees; and, if it be too low, the dampness, the vermin, and venomous creatures which breed in ponds and marshy places, contribute much to the unwholesomeness of the spot. It is true, as Dr. Darwin has observed, that low situations are favourable in some respects, on account of their superior warmth, and of their being more sheltered from the cold north-east winds, which, in this climate, are accompanied with frost; and from the boisterous south-west winds, that are very violent, and, during summer, frequently injure the more delicate plants, by dashing their branches against each other. But in low situations, Dr. Darwin adds, the fogs in the vernal evenings moisten the young shoots and early flowers of trees, and thus expose them to the injuries of the frosty nights which succeed them, and which they generally escape, when placed in more elevated ground. The best site, therefore, is on a gentle declivity, especially if it abound with springs, and the land surrounding the house be level: for the air will then be

temperate, and the water descending from the hill, whether from springs or rain, will not only contribute to fertilize the soil, but also supply fountains, cascades, &c. ; it will be farther useful for irrigating the adjacent valley, which, if the water be not suffered to stagnate, will thus be rendered fruitful and salubrious.

2. A good soil is an object of great importance. This may be ascertained by observing whether there be any heath spontaneously growing on it, or other weeds that indicate a poor soil. But, if the land be covered with rich grass, fit for pasture, it will be advisable to investigate the depth of the vegetable earth, by digging holes in various parts, six feet in width and four in breadth; thus, if 24 or 3 feet in depth, of good mould, appear on the surface, the soil may be considered as excellent. Good land must neither be too stony, nor too hard for the spade; nor too dry, damp, or too light; lastly, neither too strong, nor clayey, as such soils are ill calculated for gardens.

3. The next requisite is water; the want of which is one of the greatest inconveniences in gardening: nor should it be taken from cold springs, as river-water, or that from stagnant pools, is more proper, especially after it has been exposed to the rays of the sun during the day.

4. The prospect, though by no means an essential point, constitutes one of the greatest charms of a garden, which, if it happen to occupy a low and confined situation, is not only dis agreeable, but also detrimental to the health of those who spend part of their time in such places.

In laying out a garden, its size ought never to exceed the ability or wants of the proprietor. The beauties of nature should likewise be diligently studied; as gardens will continue to please in proportion as they approach to her design. Hence the several parts ought to be sufficiently diversified; and the general disposition of them accommodated to the inequalities, as well as the different situations of the soil. Nor should the number and species of trees and shrubs be disproportioned to each other; nor any objects that may conduce to ornament, be excluded from the view of the garden. Lastly, in designing these delightful spots, the constant aim should be to unite all that is natural, grand, and noble.

Management of a Garden for every Month in the Year.

Jamiarp.

Pleasure Ground.

Frost is to be expected now, and nothing is so dangerous to tender flower-roots and their shoots for spring.

Ranunculuses, anemonies, and tulips, will be in danger: place behind them, therefore, a reed hedge, sloping three feet forward. A mat is to be let down from the top in severe weather and taken up in mild. This certainly preserves them, and yet does not draw them weak, or make them tender.

Cover the beds and boxes of seedling flowers; and take off the defence when the weather is mild.

Clean the auricula plants, pluck off dead leaves, and scrape away the surface of the mould; put fresh mould in the place of it, and set the pots up to the brim in the mould of a dry bed, and place behind them a reed hedge. Cover carnation plants from wet, and defend them from mice and sparrows.

Kitchen Garden.

Throw up some new dung in a heap to heat, that it may be ready to make hot-beds both for the early cucumbers and melons in this part of the ground, and for raising seeds of annuals in the flower-garden. Dig up the ground which is to be sown with the spring crops, that it may lay and mellow.

Nurse the cauliflower plants kept under glasses; earefully shut out the frost, but in the middle of milder day let in a little air; pick up the dead leaves, and gather up the mould about the stalks. Make a slight hot-bed in the open ground, for young salading, and place hoops over it, that it may be covered in very hard wea ther. Plant out endive for seed into warm borders; earth and blanch celery. Sow a few beans and peas, and seek and destroy snails and other vermin.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

Fruit trees, whether in orchards or espaliers, or against walls, demand the same general management. Cut out dead wood and irregular branches, clean the stumps and boughs from moss with a hollow iron; and repair espaliers, fastening the stakes and poles with nails and wire, and tying the shoots down with twigs of osier.

Place stakes by all new-planted trees; cut grafts to be ready, and lay them in the earth under a warm wall.

February.

Pleasure Garden.

Make hot-beds for annual flowers with the dung laid up for that purpose, and sow them upon a good thickness of mould, laid regularly over the dung.

Transplant perennial flowers and hardy shrubs, Canterbury bells, lilacs, and the like. Break up and new-lay the gravel

walks. Weed, rake, and clean, the borders; and where the box of the edging is decayed, make it up with a fresh plantation.

Sow auricula and polyanthus seeds in boxes: these should be made of rough boards six inches deep, with holes at the bottom for the running off the water: they must be filled with light mould, and the seeds scattered thinly over the surface; then some more mould must be sifted over them a quarter of an inch thick, and they must be set where they may enjoy the morning sun.

Kitchen Garden.

Dig and level beds for sowing radishes and onions, carrots, and parsnips; and Dutch lettuce, leeks, and spinage, should also be sown now; also beets, cellery, sorrel, and marigolds, with other of the hardy kinds,

any

Make up the hot-beds for early cucumbers, and sow cauliflower seeds, and some others.

Plant beans, and sow peas: the best way, in these useful things, is to sow a new crop every fortnight, and if one succeeds, and another fails, as will often be the case, there may still be a constant supply, at the due season, for the table. Plant kidney-beans upon a hot-bed for an early crop. The dwarf, white, and Battersea beans, are the best sorts. They must have air in the middle of mild days when they are up, and once in two days they must be gently watered.

Transplant cabbages, plant out Silesia and Cos lettuce from the beds where they grew in winter; and plant potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

Most kind of trees may now be pruned, though it is better to do it to the generality in autumn: whatever has been omitted at that season, in this article, must be done now; the hardiest kinds being pruned first, and such as are more tender at the latter end of the month, when there will be little danger of their suffering from the frosts in the wounded part.

Transplant fruit-trees to places where they are wanted; opening a large hole, settling the earth carefully about their roots, and nailing them at once to the wall, or fastening them up to strong stakes. Nail up the tender trees with care, and uncover the figtrees by degrees which have been protected from frost by mats. Sow the kernels of apples and pears, and the stones of plums for stocks, and keep off birds that eat the buds of fruit-trees.

Vines, wall, espalier, and standard fruit-trees, forest-trees, and deciduous shrubs, if the season prove mild, may be planted.

18.

3 G

March.

Pleasure Garden.

Watch the beds of tender flowers, and throw mats over them, supported by hoops in hard weather.

Continue transplanting all the hardy perennial fibrous-rooted flowers, sweet-williams, golden-rods, and the like.

Dig up the earth with a shovel about those which were planted in autumn, and clean the ground between them.

All the pots of flowering plants must now be dressed. Pick off dead leaves, remove the earth at the top, and put fresh in the place, then give them a gentle watering, and set them in their places for flowering. In doing this, take care the roots are not wounded, and repeat the watering once in three days.

The third week in March is the time to sow sweet-peas, poppies, catch-flies, and all the hardy and annual plants.

The last week is proper for transplanting evergreens; and for this purpose a showery day should be chosen. New hot-beds must be made to receive the seedlings of annual flowers raised in the former.

Kitchen Garden.

Sow in the beds of the kitchen garden some carrots, and also the large peas, rouncevals, and gray.

In better ground sow cabbages and savoys, also carrots and parsnips for a second, and towards the end of the month put in a large parcel of beans and peas.

Sow Cos and Imperial lettuce, and transplant the finer kinds. Sow parsley, and plant mint.

In the beginning of the month sow Dutch parsley for the roots. The last week take the advantage of time, or the dry days, and make asparagus beds.

Clear up the artichoke roots, slip off the weakest, and plant them out for a new crop, leaving four from each good root to bear; and from such as are weaker two.

Dig up a warm border, and sow some French beans: let them have a dry soil, and give them no water till they appear.

Orchard and Fruit Garden.

The grafts which were cut off early, and laid in the ground to be ready for use, are now to be brought into service; those of the earliest kinds are to be used first, and the apple last of all.

This done, let the gardener look to the stocks that were inoculated the last year, and take off their heads. A hand's breadth should be left on above the place: this holds the bud secure by tying to it, and the sap rises more freely for its nourishment.

The fruit trees that were planted last October must be headed; and they should be cut down to almost four eyes. Some leave only three, but four is much better: the sap rises more freely.