HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY
FROM THE LIBRARY OF

ERNEST LEWIS GAY
JUNE 15, 1927

COPYRIGHT, 1903,

BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.

Set up, electrotyped, and published November, 1903.

Norwood Press

J. S. Cushing & Co. - Berwick & Smith Co.
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.

XXVII. FASHION DOLLS AND FASHION-PLATES

XXVIII. ARMOR, ARMS, AND UNIFORMS

629

647

.

XXIX. DRESS DURING THE REVOLUTION.

661

683

703

Frontispiece

This is an unusual example, not only of the genius of Gainsborough, but of the charm of youth. The complacent boy-father in officer's blue and buff, so satisfied with himself, so proud of the pretty girlish mother, all in pale blue and white, like a sunny summer sky; vain, too, of his chubby, dark-haired baby, so much more sturdy than either parent; the very essence and spirit of youth seems painted in these three figures. This portrait has had the quietest, the most secluded of histories; it has never left the family of its first owner. No account, or even notice, of it has been printed. The wife was Sarah Livingstone, daughter of Van Brugh Livingstone, of New York. The little daughter grew up and married William Palmer, of England. The portrait is now owned by Mrs. Angela Turner Toland, of Washington, D.C. GOVERNOR WILLIAM BURNET, PROVINCIAL GOVERNOR OF NEW YORK AND OF MASSACHUSETTS

WILLIAM BYRD, OF WESTOVER ON THE JAMES, VA.

Born, 1674; died, 1744. He was the author of the valuable Byrd Papers, A Journey to the Mines, etc. This portrait hangs now at Lower Brandon on the James. The copy in Richmond, Va., has had legs and feet added —not to the advantage of the portrait. PHILLIS WHEATLEY

Born, in Africa, 1735; died, in Boston, 1794. She was a servant
in the Wheatley family, and after she became the author of some
much-admired verse, she was therefrom a social lion in little pro-
vincial Boston.

JAMES BOWDOIN

392

395

399

facing 402

Born, in Boston, Mass., 1727; died, in Boston, in 1790. He was
therefore just of age when this fine portrait was painted, by Robert
Feke, in 1748. He became governor of Massachusetts in 1786;
and he founded Bowdoin College in Brunswick, Me. This portrait
hangs in the Walker Art Building of Bowdoin College. The coat
is of rich claret-colored velvet. The waistcoat, gold colored with
embossed velvet border.

COAT AND WAISTCOAT.

This was the dress wear of officers in the English Navy, 1750.

403

GENERAL SAMUEL WALDO

facing 404

General in the Massachusetts Colonial Militia. This portrait is believed to be by Smybert. It hangs in the Walker Art Building of Bowdoin College, Brunswick, Me. Coat and breeches of brown velvet, satin waistcoat of yellow, embroidered with gold. WEDDING WAISTCOAT OF BLUE UNCUT VELVET. EMBROIDERED WAISTCOATS .

1704

409

411

These four white satin waistcoats were part of the finery of Hon.
James Bowdoin in 1805 at the court of Napoleon. They are
superbly embroidered in gold, silver, and colors - one with hang-
ing sequins, like Turkish embroidery.

FRONT AND BACK OF COAT WORN BY GOVERNOR JAMES
BOWDOIN AT THE FRENCH COURT

following 414

This superb plum-colored velvet coat is embroidered in gold,
silver, and shades of purplish pink. It is now in the Boston
Museum of Fine Arts.

BUSINESS SUIT

Worn by Dr. Edward Holyoke, Salem, Mass. He was a well-
known citizen who was born in 1729, died in 1829. Copper-
colored cloth coat, white cloth waistcoat and knee breeches,
silver-plated buttons. Owned by his kinswoman, Miss Susan W.
Osgood, of Salem, Mass.

COURT SUIT OF GENERAL THOMAS PINCKNEY

417

facing 420

First Minister from the United States to the Court of St. James,
1792. This is of plum-colored brocaded silk embroidered in
lighter plum shades and gold. It is worn in this photograph by
General Pinckney's great-grandson, Charles Cotesworth Pinckney,
Esq., of Richmond, Va.

GOVERNOR BROUGHTON, OF CHARLESTON, S.C.

Drawn in pastel by Miss Henrietta Johnson in 1712. Owned by
Mrs. George S. Bryan, of Charleston, S.C.

PETER MANIGAULT

421

facing 424

Born, Charleston, S.C., 1731. He was educated in England; became a barrister of the Inner Temple. Later he was speaker of the House in South Carolina. This portrait was painted in 1751, when he was twenty years old, by Allan Ramsay, the last court painter. It was much admired when exhibited, in New York, in 1903. Owned by Charles Manigault, Esq., of Charleston, S.C. BROCADED SILK COAT

facing 432

Worn by Admiral Jackson, in the eighteenth century, when on
diplomatic duty. Owned by his descendant, Stirling Peters, Esq.,
of Brooklyn, N.Y.

BRIDAL NIGHTCAPS. Of finest needlework

BANIAN

facing 434 437

facing 438

Worn by Dr. Edward Holyoke, Salem, Mass. Owned by Miss
Susan W. Osgood, of Salem, Mass.

NICHOLAS BOYLSTON

A wealthy citizen of Boston, who was a benefactor of Harvard
University, Cambridge, Mass. In Memorial Hall, Harvard Uni-
versity.