They will soon begin to put forth their thrifty shoots, in some six weeks will present a fine show of beautiful flowers, and, if properly managed, will continue blooming through the winter. If attacked by the green-fly, the plant can be inverted in a strong decoction of tobacco, or it can be fumigated by being placed under an inverted barrel, with some burning tobacco. For window culture, the Everblooming Roses are the best, and they should be ordered of the nurseryman in suitable pots. This mode commends itself to all; it is within the reach of the daily laborer; the seamstress can have it in her window, and in the midst of her toilsome duties, be reminded by its bright flowers, of many a green spot in past days. It is especially suited to the means and leisure of the operatives in our factories, many of whom have left the country and all its green fields and pleasant flowers for the crowded city, where they can have no garden, but simply this little pot to remind them of past pleasures, and throw a gleam of sunshine over their hours of relief from labor. It can be placed in their chamber window, or in the windows of the factory, the high temperature of which, if it has been brought from the chamber, will soon bring out its foliage in great luxuriance and its flowers in beauty, and be a pleasant object of care in the moments snatched from the operations of the loom. To this class we would especially.commend the Rose, as thriving under simple treatment, as possessing, more than any other flower, the elements of beauty, and tending like other flowers to keep alive, in a crowded city, that freshness and purity of feeling that distinguished their country life, and which, unless there exists an unusual perversion of the moral faculties, must always result from an intimate acquaintance with natural objects.

CHAPTER XIII.

PROPAGATION OF THE ROSE.

CUTTINGS.

HIS mode of propagation, although possible with all roses, is extremely difficult and rarely practised with those that bloom only once in the season. It is most applicable to the smooth-wooded kinds, as the Bengal and its sub-classes, and the Boursault, Microphylla rubifolia, &c. Many of the Perpetuals and Bourbons are propagated with facility by the same mode; but the best mode for these is generally by layers, budding and grafting. For propagation in the open ground, cuttings should be made in the early part of winter. They should be made of wood of the growth of the season, and about eight inches long. The lower end should be cut square close to the bud, and they can then be planted thickly two-thirds of their length in sand, in a light and dry cellar. Here a callus will be formed on the bottom of each cutting during the winter, and on being planted out in the spring, they will immediately throw out roots. They should be planted as early as possible in the spring, in a light sandy loam, with one-third of their length and at least one bud above the surface of the ground. They should be planted very early in the spring, because, if left until late, the power of the sun is too much for them. The earth should be trodden down very tight about them, in order, as much as possible, to exclude the air. If the weather is dry, they should be carefully watered in the evening.

Where it is inconvenient to make the cuttings in the fall or early in the winter, they can be made in the spring; but in consequence of having to form the callus, they will require a much lighter soil than will afterward be desirable for their growth, and they will also be much later in coming on. This mode of open propagation answers very well for some of the smooth-wooded roses of the more robust growing varieties, like the Boursault and Rubifolia, but for the delicate Bengals, the best mode is pot propagation. For this purpose we use small pots, filled with equal parts of mould and sand, or peat and sand. About the middle of autumn, cuttings of the same season's growth are taken off with two or three buds, cutting off the leaf from the lower end, and cutting off the wood smooth and square close to the eye. These cuttings can be inserted in the pot, leaving one eye above the surface. It should then be slightly watered to settle the soil firmly around the cuttings, and then placed in a cold frame, or on the floor of a vinery in which no fire is kept during winter. Early in the spring the pot should be plunged in saw-dust or tan over a moderate hot-bed, kept perfectly close, and sprinkled every morning with water a little tepid. Now, as well as during the autumn, they should be shaded from the too bright glare of the sun. In about a fortnight, and after they have formed a third set of leaves and good roots, a little air can be given them: and after being thus hardened for a week, they can be repotted into larger pots. In order to ascertain when they are sufficiently rooted, the ball of earth can be taken out of the pot, by striking its inverted edge lightly against some body; at the same time sustaining the inside by the hand, the cutting being passed between two of the fingers a little separated. If well rooted, the fibres will be seen on the outside of the ball of earth. They can then be placed in a cold frame, or anywhere under glass, to be planted out the latter part of spring, or retained for pot culture. Where hot-bed frames are not convenient, or the amateur wishes only to experiment with one or two cuttings, he can use a tumbler, or any kind of close glass covering.

Bottom heat is quite an important aid in propagation by cut