The Great Fashion DesignersOver the course of the last 180 years, designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of popular culture. This brilliantly written guide to the lives and collections of 55 iconic fashion designers draws on the latest academic research and the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers. Beginning with 19th century couturier Charles Frederick Worth and concluding with the star names of the 2010s, Polan and Tredre detail each designer's working methods and career highlights with engaging essays that capture the spirit of their times. This revised edition has hundreds of inspiring colour photos and features five new designer profiles: Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia. It's also been updated throughout to reflect a fashion world in constant ferment, with designers swapping jobs and fashion houses at unprecedented speed. The industry has expanded into a global phenomenon and designers have emerged as true celebrities; The Great Fashion Designers explores their passion and flair, showing us fashion at its most inspirational. |
Contents
1 | |
4 | |
7 | |
9 | |
13 | |
17 | |
4 PAUL POIRET 18791944 | 21 |
PART 2 1910s1930s | 23 |
25 ANDRÉ COURRÈGES 1923 | 122 |
26 VALENTINO 1932 | 129 |
27 KARL LAGERFELD 1938 | 133 |
28 HALSTON 19321990 | 136 |
29 KENZO 1939 | 140 |
30 RALPH LAUREN 1939 | 144 |
31 ISSEY MIYAKE 1935 | 151 |
32 GEOFFREY BEENE 19272004 | 155 |
5 MARIANO FORTUNY 18711949 | 25 |
Introduction | 30 |
6 JEANNE LANVIN 18671946 | 35 |
7 GABRIELLE CHANEL 18831971 | 39 |
8 JEAN PATOU 18801936 | 43 |
9 MADELEINE VIONNET 18761975 | 47 |
10 ELSA SCHIAPARELLI 18901973 | 51 |
11 MAINBOCHER 18901976 | 55 |
12 ADRIAN 19031959 | 58 |
13 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 18981960 | 62 |
14 MADAME ALIX GRÈS 19031993 | 67 |
PART 3 1940s1950s | 71 |
Introduction | 73 |
15 CRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA 18951972 | 77 |
16 CHRISTIAN DIOR 19051957 | 83 |
17 CHARLES JAMES 19061978 | 87 |
18 CLAIRE MCCARDELL 19051958 | 90 |
19 HUBERT DE GIVENCHY 1927 | 95 |
20 PIERRE CARDIN 1922 | 98 |
21 MARY QUANT 1934 | 102 |
22 RUDI GERNREICH 19221985 | 106 |
PART 4 1960s1970s | 111 |
Introduction | 113 |
23 NORMAN NORELL 19001972 | 115 |
24 YVES SAINT LAURENT 19362008 | 118 |
33 CALVIN KLEIN 1942 | 161 |
34 GIORGIO ARMANI 1934 | 167 |
PART 5 1980s | 171 |
Introduction | 173 |
35 REI KAWAKUBO 1942 | 175 |
36 YOHJI YAMAMOTO 1943 | 179 |
37 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 1941 | 183 |
38 PAUL SMITH 1946 | 187 |
39 AZZEDINE ALAIA c 1940 | 190 |
40 GIANNI VERSACE 19461997 | 195 |
41 JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 1952 | 200 |
42 DOLCE GABBANA DOMENICO DOLCE 1958 STEFANO GABBANA 1962 | 205 |
43 JOHN GALLIANO 1960 | 211 |
44 DONNA KARAN 1948 | 214 |
PART 6 1990s | 219 |
Introduction | 221 |
45 MIUCCIA PRADA 1949 | 225 |
46 MARTIN MARGIELA 1959 | 228 |
47 MARC JACOBS 1963 | 234 |
48 TOM FORD 1962 | 238 |
49 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 1969 | 242 |
50 NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE 1971 | 247 |
ILLUSTRATIONS | 251 |
253 | |
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Common terms and phrases
Adrian Alaia American fashion Armani artists Azzedine Alaia Balenciaga beautiful became body boutique Brenda Polan Callot Soeurs career century Chanel Christian Dior clients clothes collection colour costumes Courrèges couture house created creative decade developed Dior’s dress dressmaker early fabric fash fashion design fashion editors fashion house fashion show Ford Fortuny French Further reading Gabbana Galliano Gaultier Gernreich Ghesquière Giorgio Armani Givenchy Grès Gucci Halston haute couture inspired interview jacket Jacobs Jean Jean Patou Jeanne Jeanne Lanvin Jeanne Paquin John Galliano Karan Karl Lagerfeld Kawakubo Kenzo Klein label Lanvin later launched London look Mainbocher Marc Jacobs Margiela McCardell McQueen men’s menswear Miyake models modern moved Norell Paquin Paris Parisian Patou Paul Poiret Prada ready-to-wear Rei Kawakubo Schiaparelli Seventh Avenue signer skirts sportswear style suit tailoring tion Versace Vionnet Vogue wanted Westwood woman women worn wrote Yamamoto York young Yves Saint Laurent