home from Australia in an English ship; spoke four languages well; smoked twenty cigars a-day; had had several duels, and had like to have slain one; and knew a short road to a lady's heart. (I know a pair of bright eyes that would look severely on this last expression if they could see it; but fiat justitia, you know, Bales, I must be honest.) He had got an invi tation from the Viceroy to attend the fêtes in some capacity or other, and he had made himself a favourite with all on board. This hero happened to be on shore at the moment when the Empress was about to mount a camel, probably for the first time in her life. The richly-caparisoned animal was on it knees and haunches to receive its fair burden, and Eugenie, sitting well forward of the hump, was about to order that the animal should rise, when the Italian, who knew something about camels, as he did about most things, taking his cigar from his mouth, called out to her, "Tenez-vous en arrière, ou vous ferez la culbute"!* This is not the style in which imperial personages are generally addressed, but the gracious lady with real dignity accepted the honest advice. She bowed kindly, saying, "Je vous remercie, monsieur ;" and immediately altered her position. The camel, in rising, lengthens its hind legs first. And while I am digressing, let me introduce a message for madame. The Empress, when on the camel, wore a yellow alpaca dress and jacket of the same, a large Leghorn hat, and a yellow veil. * Hold yourself back, or you will turn a somersault. I landed before noon at one end of the town, and found myself on a strand of deep loose sand, crowded with Mussulmans and cattle, and showing a few temporary houses, with many sheds and tents. There is now something like a native population to be seen. At Port Saïd there were so many strangers of all nations, that the town seemed to belong no more to the Egyptians than it did to the Germans or the English. Now, however, the predominance of the turban and the fez showed clearly who were at home and who were not. Before I was off the beach I saw a sight which proved how different from those of Europe are the modes that prevail here. One of the faithful who was moving some wood incurred the wrath of his employer, a fat Mohammedan, who let into him with a pole a yard and a half long, and about the thickness of a man's arm, belabouring him unmercifully, falling into the most violent rage, and venting his wrath in words as well as blows. What with the dress and the exaggerated action, the incident was so like what one sees in a pantomime, that I could not refrain from laughing, though it was certainly no joke to the poor fellah. town. A very few steps in from the sea-beach you come upon the fresh-water canal which flows through the The part which I saw looked muddy, and one could guess why; for there were savages standing in it, and cattle brought to drink were allowed to go into it too. Through nasty sheds, very nasty animals, and particularly nasty people, I had to pass about a hundred yards along the banks, encountering terrible odours before I reached a bridge which allowed me to cross to the more respectable part of the town. Here was a fair broad street, with a hard road (the other ways were all loose sand), and along this I passed, observing the houses on either side, some of which were very good. Most of them were detached, and stood among trees, shrubs, or flowers, so that this town in the desert has rather a pleasing appearance. Some way on towards the palace there was a square, with hotels and baths in it, and on one side thereof were donkeys for hire-the only public conveyance. It was broiling hot, and I did not fancy walking on the sand. On the other hand, I was somewhat squeamish about exhibiting myself on the outside of a donkey, and there was a conflict of emotions. Exhausted nature prevailed over pride, and I approached a donkey-proprietor, making signs that I wished to know the price per hour. He understood me perfectly, and said, "Ten shilling-hour." I was convinced that he must use the word shilling for some other coin, and, having compassion upon his ignorance, took some pains to satisfy him of his error. But he was quite intelligent and wide awake. "Half-suvvern," he said; "muss pay; all donkey wanted." He was fixed as kismet, utterly immovable, but a rogue who had overshot his mark. A reasonable advance of price must have been, of necessity, submitted to on the occasion; but this rascal's assurance defeated its object, and I was glad, later in the day, to see his |