That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 20
... asked Gally to give me some lessons . I had deliberately chosen the protected break of Torquay to save myself the kind of pounding I had endured when learning to surf in the unforgiving beach breaks of the Mornington Peninsula . Back ...
... asked Gally to give me some lessons . I had deliberately chosen the protected break of Torquay to save myself the kind of pounding I had endured when learning to surf in the unforgiving beach breaks of the Mornington Peninsula . Back ...
Page 22
... asked Gally what he did with his keys . He slammed the hatch of his station wagon and picked up his board . ' Hide them somewhere on the beach or under the car . ' He was once so eager to get in the water , he said , that he left the ...
... asked Gally what he did with his keys . He slammed the hatch of his station wagon and picked up his board . ' Hide them somewhere on the beach or under the car . ' He was once so eager to get in the water , he said , that he left the ...
Page 25
... asked Gally if he had surfed Corsair . I told him that I had written a novel about a young man who surfed there at night . ' Hah ! ' he laughed , brushing the sand from his feet . " That would be the end of him . ' Gally had surfed the ...
... asked Gally if he had surfed Corsair . I told him that I had written a novel about a young man who surfed there at night . ' Hah ! ' he laughed , brushing the sand from his feet . " That would be the end of him . ' Gally had surfed the ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |