That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 13
... thing we all ' half create ' - through the meanings and desires we bring to it co - exist with the immediacy of youthful rapture ? I had to believe that it could . Otherwise I might as well sit back in my armchair and replay my surfing 13.
... thing we all ' half create ' - through the meanings and desires we bring to it co - exist with the immediacy of youthful rapture ? I had to believe that it could . Otherwise I might as well sit back in my armchair and replay my surfing 13.
Page 20
... believe that surfing could be taught . Like writing , it seemed too fluid , too unpredictable an activity ; too much a matter of individual talent and tem- perament . You had to work your way out from the shorebreak , get used to being ...
... believe that surfing could be taught . Like writing , it seemed too fluid , too unpredictable an activity ; too much a matter of individual talent and tem- perament . You had to work your way out from the shorebreak , get used to being ...
Page 29
... me dropping off my son at the crèche with my surfboard strapped to the car roof to believe that I was ' going to work ' . Once I was in the water , these anxieties fell away . The rough and tumble of the ocean did its work . 29.
... me dropping off my son at the crèche with my surfboard strapped to the car roof to believe that I was ' going to work ' . Once I was in the water , these anxieties fell away . The rough and tumble of the ocean did its work . 29.
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |