That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 4
... cliff tops and signs told of unexploded shells , warning us to ' Keep Out ' . Occasionally we would hear reports of gunfire as the officers in the army training camp practised on the rifle range . We knew that deep inside this territory ...
... cliff tops and signs told of unexploded shells , warning us to ' Keep Out ' . Occasionally we would hear reports of gunfire as the officers in the army training camp practised on the rifle range . We knew that deep inside this territory ...
Page 7
... cliff overlooking the beach . And how , as we gazed down on it all , I'd felt as proud as if I had carved those craggy , ochre cliffs myself ; as if I had arranged for the waves to break in perfect , thunderous lines along the coastal ...
... cliff overlooking the beach . And how , as we gazed down on it all , I'd felt as proud as if I had carved those craggy , ochre cliffs myself ; as if I had arranged for the waves to break in perfect , thunderous lines along the coastal ...
Page 19
... cliff - face in sight . The film was shot , in fact , off the coast of Oregon in the USA . I hadn't been to Torquay for at least six years , and as I drove past the surf showrooms , I felt a pang of nostalgia for the mythical Torquay of ...
... cliff - face in sight . The film was shot , in fact , off the coast of Oregon in the USA . I hadn't been to Torquay for at least six years , and as I drove past the surf showrooms , I felt a pang of nostalgia for the mythical Torquay of ...
Page 20
... cliff glow like a freshly baked loaf of bread . It was a weekday , and as I gazed out over Bass Strait contemplating the surf , I had a sneaking feeling that I was breaking some unwritten rule about how one should conduct one's life ...
... cliff glow like a freshly baked loaf of bread . It was a weekday , and as I gazed out over Bass Strait contemplating the surf , I had a sneaking feeling that I was breaking some unwritten rule about how one should conduct one's life ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |