That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 3
... coast only accentuated its air of isolation . I was amazed there was a beach at all , that it hadn't been swept away by the powerful currents and surging tides of the Rip . - The other image I had of Point Nepean was taken from a ...
... coast only accentuated its air of isolation . I was amazed there was a beach at all , that it hadn't been swept away by the powerful currents and surging tides of the Rip . - The other image I had of Point Nepean was taken from a ...
Page 4
... coast upon which an untold number of ships had come to grief . It wasn't until I was in my late teens , when all pro- hibitions were a red rag , that I dared sneak into this forbidden zone . And it was much later still , after I had ...
... coast upon which an untold number of ships had come to grief . It wasn't until I was in my late teens , when all pro- hibitions were a red rag , that I dared sneak into this forbidden zone . And it was much later still , after I had ...
Page 7
... coastal shelf , leaving trails of milky lace ; as if the flayed cheeks of the sand dunes and the wind - sculpted ... coast of my heart . The suburbs of Melbourne seemed to go on forever ; as if it was folly to try to escape them , as ...
... coastal shelf , leaving trails of milky lace ; as if the flayed cheeks of the sand dunes and the wind - sculpted ... coast of my heart . The suburbs of Melbourne seemed to go on forever ; as if it was folly to try to escape them , as ...
Page 19
... coast of Oregon in the USA . I hadn't been to Torquay for at least six years , and as I drove past the surf showrooms , I felt a pang of nostalgia for the mythical Torquay of Point Break that would forever remain . unsullied by the ...
... coast of Oregon in the USA . I hadn't been to Torquay for at least six years , and as I drove past the surf showrooms , I felt a pang of nostalgia for the mythical Torquay of Point Break that would forever remain . unsullied by the ...
Page 21
... coast for powerful groundswells produced by lows in the Southern Ocean . The past May had been classic : nonstop six - foot waves and off - shore winds . Now it was September and the equinoctial winds had begun to blow . As always in ...
... coast for powerful groundswells produced by lows in the Southern Ocean . The past May had been classic : nonstop six - foot waves and off - shore winds . Now it was September and the equinoctial winds had begun to blow . As always in ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |