That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
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Fiona Capp. that Oceanic feeling FIONA CAPP I rose to my feet to take the drop , poised on the brink with the weight of the inrushing ocean behind me and the wave unfurling beneath me : this last split second of clarity and separateness ...
Fiona Capp. that Oceanic feeling FIONA CAPP I rose to my feet to take the drop , poised on the brink with the weight of the inrushing ocean behind me and the wave unfurling beneath me : this last split second of clarity and separateness ...
Page 12
... feet to ' take the drop ' , poised on the brink with the weight of the inrushing ocean behind me and the wave unfurling beneath me . The spool of my memories always froze at this last split second of clarity and separateness before the ...
... feet to ' take the drop ' , poised on the brink with the weight of the inrushing ocean behind me and the wave unfurling beneath me . The spool of my memories always froze at this last split second of clarity and separateness before the ...
Page 23
... feet . In my late teens and early twenties , I would have been mortified to be seen mucking about in the shorebreak . Real surfers caught unbroken waves . Desperate to prove myself to the world , I took to paddling out the back with the ...
... feet . In my late teens and early twenties , I would have been mortified to be seen mucking about in the shorebreak . Real surfers caught unbroken waves . Desperate to prove myself to the world , I took to paddling out the back with the ...
Page 24
... feet more smoothly , catching nice little re - forming waves that appeared out of the white water like a staircase materialising from nothing . My stance , Gally warned , was too squat , feet too far apart ; I'd never be able to ...
... feet more smoothly , catching nice little re - forming waves that appeared out of the white water like a staircase materialising from nothing . My stance , Gally warned , was too squat , feet too far apart ; I'd never be able to ...
Page 25
... feet and quickly slid down the green face , then rode the broken wave all the way to the shore . After catching a few more like it , I was so awash with adrenalin I could barely think straight . All I could do was smile . Why on earth ...
... feet and quickly slid down the green face , then rode the broken wave all the way to the shore . After catching a few more like it , I was so awash with adrenalin I could barely think straight . All I could do was smile . Why on earth ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |