That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 7
... felt as proud as if I had carved those craggy , ochre cliffs myself ; as if I had arranged for the waves to break in perfect , thunderous lines along the coastal shelf , leaving trails of milky lace ; as if the flayed cheeks of the sand ...
... felt as proud as if I had carved those craggy , ochre cliffs myself ; as if I had arranged for the waves to break in perfect , thunderous lines along the coastal shelf , leaving trails of milky lace ; as if the flayed cheeks of the sand ...
Page 10
... felt in the presence of this natural force , a force so unfathomable that it grants you an inkling of infinity , was intrinsic to my attraction to surfing . The eighteenth - century philosopher Edmund Burke , and later the Romantic ...
... felt in the presence of this natural force , a force so unfathomable that it grants you an inkling of infinity , was intrinsic to my attraction to surfing . The eighteenth - century philosopher Edmund Burke , and later the Romantic ...
Page 11
... felt that he had not appreciated the true origin of religious sentiments . Such sentiments were born , Rolland wrote , of a feeling which was always with him and which others too had confirmed ; a feeling which he described as a ...
... felt that he had not appreciated the true origin of religious sentiments . Such sentiments were born , Rolland wrote , of a feeling which was always with him and which others too had confirmed ; a feeling which he described as a ...
Page 12
... oppressed by the din of towns and cities . Wordsworth's version of the ' oceanic feeling ' , of the interconnectedness of all things , culminates in these famous lines : And I have felt A presence that disturbs me with I 2.
... oppressed by the din of towns and cities . Wordsworth's version of the ' oceanic feeling ' , of the interconnectedness of all things , culminates in these famous lines : And I have felt A presence that disturbs me with I 2.
Page 13
Fiona Capp. And I have felt A presence that disturbs me with the joy Of elevated thoughts ; a sense sublime Of something far more deeply interfused , Whose dwelling is the light of setting suns , And the round ocean and the living air ...
Fiona Capp. And I have felt A presence that disturbs me with the joy Of elevated thoughts ; a sense sublime Of something far more deeply interfused , Whose dwelling is the light of setting suns , And the round ocean and the living air ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |