That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 22
... happened , there was a nearby kiosk where I could hire a board . I pulled on my wetsuit and was preparing to enter the water when I became concerned about what to do with my keys and wallet . Should I bury them in the pebbles of the ...
... happened , there was a nearby kiosk where I could hire a board . I pulled on my wetsuit and was preparing to enter the water when I became concerned about what to do with my keys and wallet . Should I bury them in the pebbles of the ...
Page 28
... happening to them in their small , often unseaworthy vessels on the seas between Indonesia and northern Australia , or locked up in bleak detention camps on the edge of the Australian desert . I had always regarded going down to the sea ...
... happening to them in their small , often unseaworthy vessels on the seas between Indonesia and northern Australia , or locked up in bleak detention camps on the edge of the Australian desert . I had always regarded going down to the sea ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |