That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 1
... Heads - this bottleneck where the bay and the strait collided – surfing conditions were perfect . I knew the Rip was a ... Head . Today , a light south - easterly was blowing . Just inside the bay , to the right of the breaking waves , a ...
... Heads - this bottleneck where the bay and the strait collided – surfing conditions were perfect . I knew the Rip was a ... Head . Today , a light south - easterly was blowing . Just inside the bay , to the right of the breaking waves , a ...
Page 2
... Heads . The ship nosed steadily forward , dwarfing everything it passed . Soon after , another ship approached from the bay , this time in the south channel , much closer to the Corsair break . Against it , the surfer was a mere fly on ...
... Heads . The ship nosed steadily forward , dwarfing everything it passed . Soon after , another ship approached from the bay , this time in the south channel , much closer to the Corsair break . Against it , the surfer was a mere fly on ...
Page 19
... head off his pillow in the mornings to inspect the surf through his bedroom window . Gally had been an Australian champion twice and state cham- pion too many times to mention . Apart from selling surfboards for Rip Curl , he coached ...
... head off his pillow in the mornings to inspect the surf through his bedroom window . Gally had been an Australian champion twice and state cham- pion too many times to mention . Apart from selling surfboards for Rip Curl , he coached ...
Page 26
... Heads and wrapped around Point Nepean , executing a sudden right turn . One moment the swell looked as if it was passing you by , the next moment the wave was coming right at you , hollow and fast . " To be honest , I don't think you ...
... Heads and wrapped around Point Nepean , executing a sudden right turn . One moment the swell looked as if it was passing you by , the next moment the wave was coming right at you , hollow and fast . " To be honest , I don't think you ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |