That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 5
... loved the other - worldliness of this steamy , glassed - in realm ; this place where normal boundaries seemed to dissolve . But as I grew older and my family began spending more time at the ocean beaches , I discovered the slap - in ...
... loved the other - worldliness of this steamy , glassed - in realm ; this place where normal boundaries seemed to dissolve . But as I grew older and my family began spending more time at the ocean beaches , I discovered the slap - in ...
Page 9
... loved the sea , and now I had fallen in love with a surfer and , through him , with the thrill of riding a wave . I was also in love with the spirit of rebellion that surfing embodied , the escape it offered me from my sensible ...
... loved the sea , and now I had fallen in love with a surfer and , through him , with the thrill of riding a wave . I was also in love with the spirit of rebellion that surfing embodied , the escape it offered me from my sensible ...
Page 10
... loved ' , I saw myself out in the surf . The ocean was a source of the sublime , according to Burke , because it produced ' the strongest emotion which the mind is capable of feeling ' . He emphasised the stimulating influence of the ...
... loved ' , I saw myself out in the surf . The ocean was a source of the sublime , according to Burke , because it produced ' the strongest emotion which the mind is capable of feeling ' . He emphasised the stimulating influence of the ...
Page 24
... loved being dumped and churned and flung about like a rag doll , loved being at the mercy of the wave . As an adult I seemed to have lost the art of abandon , of giving myself up to the ocean . I had my life 24.
... loved being dumped and churned and flung about like a rag doll , loved being at the mercy of the wave . As an adult I seemed to have lost the art of abandon , of giving myself up to the ocean . I had my life 24.
Page 29
... loved the sense of adventure that came with hitting the road and leaving the city behind , especially on a weekday when everyone else was heading for work , my mood was always tempered by anxiety . What if the conditions were no good ...
... loved the sense of adventure that came with hitting the road and leaving the city behind , especially on a weekday when everyone else was heading for work , my mood was always tempered by anxiety . What if the conditions were no good ...
Other editions - View all
Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |