That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 4
... riding the tanker's wake , that I dared admit to myself that I too wanted to surf the Rip . I knew it was a crazy idea . I hadn't surfed for fifteen years . Occasionally , when the subject of surfing came up in conversation , I would ...
... riding the tanker's wake , that I dared admit to myself that I too wanted to surf the Rip . I knew it was a crazy idea . I hadn't surfed for fifteen years . Occasionally , when the subject of surfing came up in conversation , I would ...
Page 5
... riding seaward on the waves and wondering , ' Do I dare ? ' If I didn't make a move to join them soon , I feared I never would . I had always known that water was my element . When I was a girl , I wanted to be a swimming instructor ...
... riding seaward on the waves and wondering , ' Do I dare ? ' If I didn't make a move to join them soon , I feared I never would . I had always known that water was my element . When I was a girl , I wanted to be a swimming instructor ...
Page 8
... riding his giant , three - ply surf - ski . They knew him as Snowy Mann . He was the only surfer my father remembers seeing around these beaches when he was a boy and he cut a memorably heroic figure . Snowy's unwieldy ski made it hard ...
... riding his giant , three - ply surf - ski . They knew him as Snowy Mann . He was the only surfer my father remembers seeing around these beaches when he was a boy and he cut a memorably heroic figure . Snowy's unwieldy ski made it hard ...
Page 9
... riding a wave . I was also in love with the spirit of rebellion that surfing embodied , the escape it offered me from my sensible , suburban self . The Best of the Eagles was just finishing as I pulled into the driveway , cut the engine ...
... riding a wave . I was also in love with the spirit of rebellion that surfing embodied , the escape it offered me from my sensible , suburban self . The Best of the Eagles was just finishing as I pulled into the driveway , cut the engine ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |