That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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Page 1
... took some visiting French friends to the Point Nepean National Park because they were keen to see the notorious entrance to Port Phillip Bay known as the Rip . The park was soon to close for the day so we quick - marched past the gun ...
... took some visiting French friends to the Point Nepean National Park because they were keen to see the notorious entrance to Port Phillip Bay known as the Rip . The park was soon to close for the day so we quick - marched past the gun ...
Page 2
Fiona Capp. I took it to be a fishing vessel until I saw a tiny figure paddling nearby . I had spent many hours imagining my way into such a moment in my first novel , Night Surfing , but I had never seen it for myself . Although surfers ...
Fiona Capp. I took it to be a fishing vessel until I saw a tiny figure paddling nearby . I had spent many hours imagining my way into such a moment in my first novel , Night Surfing , but I had never seen it for myself . Although surfers ...
Page 7
... took my French friends , Nelly and Marc , to the rotunda at the top of the cliff overlooking the beach . And how , as we gazed down on it all , I'd felt as proud as if I had carved those craggy , ochre cliffs myself ; as if I had ...
... took my French friends , Nelly and Marc , to the rotunda at the top of the cliff overlooking the beach . And how , as we gazed down on it all , I'd felt as proud as if I had carved those craggy , ochre cliffs myself ; as if I had ...
Page 23
... took to paddling out the back with the experienced surfers before I knew what I was doing , and not infrequently found myself in situations that I did not have the skills to handle . I have no doubt that this made me more fearful than I ...
... took to paddling out the back with the experienced surfers before I knew what I was doing , and not infrequently found myself in situations that I did not have the skills to handle . I have no doubt that this made me more fearful than I ...
Page 29
... took off to the surf . If I had not been surfing , I would have been working and he would still be in crèche , so what difference did it make ? Now that I'd begun writing this book , surfing and work had become inseparable : I was ...
... took off to the surf . If I had not been surfing , I would have been working and he would still be in crèche , so what difference did it make ? Now that I'd begun writing this book , surfing and work had become inseparable : I was ...
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |