That Oceanic FeelingA captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
From inside the book
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... writing from the publisher . The Australian Copyright Act 1968 ( the Act ) allows a maximum of one chapter or 10 % of this book , whichever is the greater , to be photocopied by any educational institution for its educational purposes ...
... writing from the publisher . The Australian Copyright Act 1968 ( the Act ) allows a maximum of one chapter or 10 % of this book , whichever is the greater , to be photocopied by any educational institution for its educational purposes ...
Page 10
... writer Romain Rolland as ' the oceanic feeling ' . Rolland used this metaphor when writing to Freud about an essay of ΙΟ.
... writer Romain Rolland as ' the oceanic feeling ' . Rolland used this metaphor when writing to Freud about an essay of ΙΟ.
Page 11
Fiona Capp. this metaphor when writing to Freud about an essay of the latter's that treats religion as an illusion . He agreed with Freud's views on religion but felt that he had not appreciated the true origin of religious sentiments ...
Fiona Capp. this metaphor when writing to Freud about an essay of the latter's that treats religion as an illusion . He agreed with Freud's views on religion but felt that he had not appreciated the true origin of religious sentiments ...
Page 20
... writing , it seemed too fluid , too unpredictable an activity ; too much a matter of individual talent and tem- perament . You had to work your way out from the shorebreak , get used to being dumped and spat out ; you had to watch more ...
... writing , it seemed too fluid , too unpredictable an activity ; too much a matter of individual talent and tem- perament . You had to work your way out from the shorebreak , get used to being dumped and spat out ; you had to watch more ...
Page 25
... didn't bother any more because it had become too crowded . It was a great left - hander , he admitted , but very tricky . At the time , I didn't dare tell him that it was my dream to surf Corsair . A writer wanting to emulate one 25.
... didn't bother any more because it had become too crowded . It was a great left - hander , he admitted , but very tricky . At the time , I didn't dare tell him that it was my dream to surf Corsair . A writer wanting to emulate one 25.
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Common terms and phrases
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
References to this book
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Limited preview - 2005 |