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which the Seih is the principal head.

This path

passes on eastward up a sandy hill called el-Murâk, and joins the direct road still upon the plain. Our way led across the same hill of sand, but further to the right; and we found the ascent very toilsome from the depth and looseness of the sand; there being no trace of a path. Descending again we reached a broad sandy valley, called Wady Sûwuk, running from S. E. to N. W. within the skirts of the mountains into Wady Nusb. On the further side of this valley we left our camels at half past 1 o'clock, and crossing on foot a ridge of deep sand towards the West into a rocky ravine, we began the difficult ascent of the mountain at its S. E. end.

The mountain may be some six or seven hundred feet high; and is composed entirely of precipitous sandstone rock, mostly red, but alternating occasionally with strata of different shades. A track leads up the toilsome and somewhat dangerous ascent, along the face of the precipice at the head of the ravine, marked only by small heaps of stones. Climbing slowly and with difficulty to the top, we found ourselves at the end of three quarters of an hour upon a level ridge, connected with a tract of high table-land of sandstone formation, much resembling the Saxon Switzerland, and like it intersected in every direction by deep precipitous ravines; while higher peaks of irregular and fantastic form lay all around us. A short distance westward, on this ridge, with a deep chasm upon either side, are situated the singular and mysterious monuments of Surâbît el-Khâdim.

These lie mostly within the compass of a small enclosure, one hundred and sixty feet long from E. to W. by seventy feet broad, marked by heaps of stones thrown or fallen together, the remains perhaps of for- · mer walls or rows of low buildings. Within this VOL. I.

15

space are seen about fifteen upright stones, like tombstones, and several fallen ones, covered with Egyptian hieroglyphics; and also the remains of a small temple, whose columns are decorated with the head of Isis for a capital. At the eastern end is a subterranean chamber excavated in the solid rock, resembling an Egyptian sepulchre. It is square; and the roof is

supported in the middle by a square column left from the rock. Both the column and the sides of the chamber are covered with hieroglyphics; and in each of the sides is a small niche. The whole surface of the enclosure is covered with fallen columns, fragments of sculpture, and hewn stones strewn in every direction; over which the pilgrim can with difficulty find his way. Other similar upright stones stand without the enclosure in various directions, and even at some distance; each surrounded by a heap of stones, which may have been thrown together by the Arabs. These upright stones both within and without the enclosure, vary from about seven to ten feet in height; while they are from eighteen inches to two feet in breadth, and from fourteen to sixteen inches in thickness. They are rounded off on the top, forming an arch over the broadest sides. On one of these sides usually appears the common Egyptian symbol of the winged globe with two serpents, and one or more priests presenting offerings to the gods; while various figures and cartouches cover the remaining sides. They are said to bear the names of different Egyptian kings; but no two of them to have the name of the same monarch. According to Major Felix, the name of Osirtisen I. is found on one of them, whom Wilkinson supposes to have been the patron of Joseph. Not the least singularity about these monuments, is the wonderful preservation of the inscriptions upon this soft sandstone, exposed as they have been to the air and weather

during the lapse of so many ages. On some of the stones they are quite perfect; on others both the inscription and the stone itself have been worn away deeply by the tooth of time.

3

This spot was first discovered by Niebuhr in 1761, who, inquiring for the inscriptions of Wady el-Mukatteb, was brought by his guides to this place as one of still greater interest and wonder; or rather, as it would seem, from ignorance on their part of the real object of his inquiries.' The next Frank visiter appears to have been the French traveller Boutin in 1811, who was afterwards murdered in Syria; and he was followed by Rüppell in 1817.2 Many other travellers have since been here on their way to Sinai. So Lord Prudhoe and Major Felix ; and after them Laborde and Linant, who have given drawings and views of the place and several of the monuments. All these travellers, with the exception of the two Englishmen, have pronounced this to be an ancient Egyptian cemetery, and these monuments to be tombstones, connected with a supposed colony near the copper mines in Wady en-Nŭsb. That these upright stones resemble the tombstones of the West in form, is true; and this would seem to be the chief circumstance which has given rise to the hypothesis. There is nothing of the kind in Egypt; nor can they well be sepulchral monuments, unless excavated tombs exist beneath them; which there is every reason to believe is not the case. What then could have been the intent of these temples and these memorial-stones in the midst of solitude and silence? in this lone and distant desert, with which they would seem to have no possible connec

1) Reisebeschr. I. p. 235.

2) Burckhardt's Travels in Syria, etc. p. 573. Rüppell's Reisen in Nubien, etc. p. 267.

3) The most exact description is by Rüppell, as cited in the preceding note.

tion? This is a point wrapped in the darkness of time, which the hand of modern science has not yet unveiled.

An ingenious hypothesis was mentioned to me by the English nobleman named above, viz. that this was perhaps a sacred place of pilgrimage for the ancient Egyptians, just as the mountain near Mecca is to the Muhammedans at the present day; and to it the Egyptian kings made each his pilgrimage and erected a column with his name. A slight historical ground for such an hypothesis, may perhaps be found in the fact, that Moses demanded permission for the Israelites to go three days' journey into the desert in order to sacrifice,'—a demand which seems to have caused no surprise to the Egyptians, as if it were something to which they were themselves accustomed. Still all this can claim to be nothing more than conjecture. Yet this lone spot, although inexplicable, is deeply interesting; it leads the beholder back into the gray mists of high antiquity; and fills him with wonder and awe as he surveys here, far from the abodes of life, the labours of men unknown for an object alike unknown.

From the high tract about Surâbît el-Khâdim, there is a wide view of the surrounding country.2 We saw no traces of mines around the place, as mentioned by Laborde; but our Arabs said that towards the West in Wady Suhau, a branch of Wady en-Nusb, was found the stone from which el-Kuhal is made and carried to market. We suppose this to be antimony; though we saw none of it.

After spending an hour and a quarter among these

1) Ex. viii. 27, 28. [23, 24, Heb.] The object of this journey was to be a festival' (), corresponding to the modern Haj of the Muhammedans. Ex. x. 9.

2) The pass of Wutâh bore N. 30° W.; er-Râkineh N. 20° E.; Mount Serbal S. 16° E., and Mudha'in, a peak in the cluster of Sinai, S. 33° E.

monuments, we descended again by the same rugged path, and returned to our camels in Wady Sûwuk. From this point to the fountain of Nŭsb is a distance of about two and a half hours; and the Wady Nŭsb, having collected its numerous branches, then finds its way through the mountains to the western Gulf, or rather to the great plain along the coast. In the valley a flock of sheep and goats were feeding, tended by two young girls, whose tents were not far off. The owner of the flock soon made his appearance; and after some chaffering we bought a kid, intending to give our Arabs a good supper. Mounting at 4 o'clock, we proceeded S. E. up Wady Sûwuk to its head. One of the Arabs led the kid by a string, and as the poor animal trotted nimbly by their side, they were elated at the thought of the savoury meat in prospect. As we passed along the valley, our sharp-sighted guides discovered a Beden or mountain-goat (related to the Steinbock of the Alps) among the rocks on our left. One of them immediately started in pursuit; but as he could approach only on the windward side, the goat scented him, and dashed lightly along the side and up the face of the precipice, presenting a graceful object against the sky with his long recurved horns and bounding leaps. The Arab began to mount after him with great agility, but was called back by his companions. At the head of the valley is a steep and rugged pass, which our camels mounted with difficulty; and here we saw the first strata of grünstein. On reaching the top, we found ourselves upon the western ridge of Wady el-Khumîleh, a broad sandy tract, thus far a mere arm of the great plain extending towards the S. E. into the mountains. Our tent stood below in the valley; and passing down by a gradual descent, we reached it at three quarters past 5 o'clock. The Greek priests who had kept near us since Sun

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