opened before us. The whole plain er-Râhah lay spread out beneath our feet, with the adjacent Wadys and mountains; while Wady esh-Sheikh on the right, and the recess on the left, both connected with, and opening broadly from er-Râhah, presented an area which serves nearly to double that of the plain. Our conviction was strengthened, that here or on some one of the adjacent cliffs was the spot, where the Lord "descended in fire" and proclaimed the law. Here lay the plain where the whole congregation might be assembled; here was the mount that could be approached and touched, if not forbidden; and here the mountain brow, where alone the lightnings and the. thick cloud would be visible, and the thunders and the voice of the trump be heard, when the Lord "came down in the sight of all the people upon Mount Sinai.” We gave ourselves up to the impressions of the awful scene; and read with a feeling that will never be forgotten, the sublime account of the transaction and the commandments there promulgated, in the original words as recorded by the great Hebrew legislator.'

Between es-Sufsâfeh and the plain are still some lower peaks, overhanging the latter more directly, which we were desirous to visit; but the time did not permit. Descending therefore to our companions, who were in no hurry, we returned to the second basin. above mentioned, and thence at 3 45' took a path more to the right. At 4 o'clock we came to a small church on the western brow of the ridge, dedicated to St. Panteleemon. The chapel of St. Anne mentioned by Pococke and older travellers, we did not see. Hence a long and in some parts steep descent about S. W. brought us at a quarter past 5 o'clock to the convent el-Arba'în, where we were to lodge.

1) Exod. xix. 9-25. xx. 1-21.

This monastery is said to have received its name, el-Arba'în, "the Forty," from the circumstance that the Arabs once took it by surprise, and killed the forty monks who were its inmates. Hence it is called by the older travellers the Convent of the Forty Saints or Martyrs. Tradition has forgotten the time when this event took place; but the story probably refers to the massacre of forty hermits around Sinai near the close of the fourth century? A large plantation of olivetrees extends far above and below the monastery along the valley, which is narrow like that of Shu'eib, but longer and less desert. Just around the buildings is also a garden of other fruit-trees, in which apple and apricot-trees were in blossom; and not far off is a small grove of tall poplars, here cultivated for timber. In this garden too was a rill of water; which however was lost after a few rods. The convent, as such, has been deserted for several centuries; yet two or three of the monks usually reside here for a time every summer; though even this custom had been neglected for the last three years. A family of Jebelîyeh, or serfs, was here to keep the garden. As we entered, the sweet voice of a prattling Arab child struck my ear, and made my heart thrill, as it recalled the thoughts of home.-The elevation of this spot above the sea, was found by Rüppell to be 5366 Paris feet.3

A large room, the best in the building, though lighted only by the door, was assigned to us, in which

1) Tucher of Nürnberg relates this story in A. D. 1480; as also Baumgarten in 1507, lib. I. c. 24. These travellers found the convent deserted, as now, except by two or three monks.

2) See further on, under the head of" Sinai in the early Christian ages."

3) Reise in Abyssinien, I. p. 124. From a comparison with Schubert's measurements, it would appear, that el-Arba'în lies about 400 Paris feet higher than the other convent. This difference, however, seems to me to be too great.

our beds were already spread on a layer of fragrant herbs. A fire was lighted in a corner; and we found it quite comfortable, although the thermometer stood at 65° F. Indeed an Arab has no idea of passing a night without fire at any season. The Superior and his monks occupied a room in another part of the building. The good father spent the evening in our apartment, and was very social and communicative. He had borne the walk of to-day so well, that he was determined to accompany us to-morrow to the summit of St. Catharine. We had here a curious instance of the respect in which he is held by his Arab serfs. He had pulled off his shoes and was sitting with bare feet, (for he like the other monks wore no stockings,) when the old guide 'Aîd came in to bid good night, and perceiving his situation suddenly kneeled down and kissed his toe. Indeed, it seemed to be quite an occasion of festivity with these Arabs, to meet the patriarchal old man so far abroad out of the convent walls.

Tuesday, March 27th. We started from our fragrant couch at early dawn, in order to set off in good season for the mountain. But here, as in so many other cases where aught was depending on Arabs, we found it impossible to 'keep the word of promise' to our hopes. Old 'Aîd, the guide, gave out at starting ; and his place had to be supplied by a youth, Sâlim, who overtook us on the way, and proved a better guide than the old man. We thought too we perceived some slight symptoms of abatement in the good Superior's zeal for undertaking the more arduous task which awaited us to-day; and at our suggestion he concluded to remain and wait our return.

At length we issued from the garden at ten minutes past 6 o'clock, and proceeded S. W. by S. up a ravine which comes down from the side of St. Catharine, called Shuk Mûsa, 'Cleft of Moses,' from a deep rent

in the mountain at its head. At ten minutes from the convent and before beginning to ascend, the path passes between two large rocks, both having Sinaite inscriptions, and one of them quite covered with them. These Burckhardt did not see; for he says expressly, that there are none in el-Leja higher up than the rock of Moses, which lies at some distance below el-Arba'în. We found none afterwards. The ravine soon becomes narrow and precipitous, and the way exceedingly difficult; the path leading over stones and rocks in their natural state, which have never been removed nor laid more evenly. Indeed, we could not discover all day the slightest trace that any path had ever existed here with steps, or laid stones, like that which leads up Jebel Mûsa. At 7h 25' we reached the fine cold spring called Ma'yan esh-Shunnâr, 'Partridge-fountain;' it having been discovered, as they say, by the fluttering of one of these birds, when the monks were bringing down the bones of St. Catharine from the mountain. It is on a shelf of rock under the left-hand precipice, about a foot in diameter and depth, with fine cold water, never increasing nor diminishing. The water percolates through some fissure in the rock into a natural reservoir below, where it is found in considerable quantity. Several hawthorn-trees (Arab. Zaʼrûr) were growing in the vicinity. Directly above this spot is the deep cleft properly called Shuk Mûsa. The path now turns S. W. by W. passing up a very steep ascent for a time; and then across loose debris to the top of the main ridge, which runs up towards the summit, here bearing S. S. W. This ridge we reached about 8 o'clock; and here the view opened towards the West over the deep vallies below.

We now kept along the western side of the ridge, beneath the brow, where the mountain-side slopes rapidly down into the depths below, and is covered VOL. I. 21

like the Wadys with tufts of herbs and shrubs, furnishing abundant pasturage for the flocks of the Bedawîn, as well as for the troops of gazelles and mountain goats (Beden) which haunt these wild retreats. The Ja'deh or hyssop was here in great plenty; and especially the fragrant Za'ter, a species of thyme, Thymus serpyllum of Forskål. This vegetation extends quite up to the foot of the highest peak, an immense pile of huge blocks of coarse red granite thrown promiscuously together. Climbing this mass of rocks with difficulty on the S. side, we reached the summit at a quarter past 9 o'clock. This consists of two small knolls or elevations of the rocks; one towards the E. on which stands a rude chapel; the other towards the W. a few feet higher. According to the latest observations of Rüppell, similar to those on Sinai, the height of this mountain is 8063 Paris feet above the sea, or about 2700 feet above the convent el-Arba'în.2 Its elevation therefore is 1030 feet greater than that of Jebel Mûsa. The sky was perfectly clear, and the air cool. A cold N. W. wind swept fitfully over the summit. The thermometer stood in the shade at 43° F. In the sun it rose at first to 52°; but as the gust grew strong, it sunk to 48° F.

During the ascent, I had found myself unwell; and reached the top in a state of great exhaustion. While my companion was busy in cross-examining the guides as to the mountains and places in view, I sought out a sunny and sheltered spot among the rocks, where I lay down and slept sweetly for half an hour, and awoke greatly refreshed.

The chief motive which led us to ascend Jebel Kâtherîn, was the hope of obtaining a more distinct and

1) Flora Aeg. Ar. p. 107. 2) Reise in Abyssinien, I. pp. 121, 124. Russegger gives the

height of St. Catharine at 8168 Paris feet. Schubert did not ascend this mountain.