were then residing; intending to cross the gulf to Nauplia, and return by way of Corinth and its isthmus. But a storm hindered us at the time appointed, and for some days afterwards; and I was compelled to rest satisfied with the view of the Acropolis of Corinth, as seen from the Acropolis of Athens. Similar circumstances prevented also a proposed excursion to the summit of Mount Pentelicus and the plain of Marathon.

I had of course no extensive opportunity to observe the people of Grecce; nor, in any case, would this be the proper place to dwell upon their political circumstances. But as the result of my own observation, coupled with information received from many quarters, I must do the inhabitants of the kingdom of Greece the justice to say, that although burdened with a foreign government, in which as a people they have no voice, this little nation of 800,000 souls, in the short period of their existence as a state, have in a good degree shaken off their former degradation, and have raised themselves, as to independence of character, integrity, and intellectual and moral enterprise, to a standing considerably above any other portions of their countrymen, and especially above those who still remain under the Turkish dominion. The people have an ardent desire for instruction and for free institutions; and although they may not yet be ripe for the latter, yet it is to be hoped that the influence of some of the larger continental powers, however strongly exerted, will not be mighty enough to quench these aspirations.1

During our stay at Athens I was able to have communication with my friend, the Rev. Mr. Smith,

1) After the above was written, I had the pleasure of learning from Prof. Ritter, that he too was led to the same conclusion respect

ing the relative intellectual and moral standing of the Greek people, in and out of the kingdom of Greece.

who was then in Smyrna. I would gladly have joined him there, that so we might have proceeded together to Egypt. But the business of which he had charge, would not permit of his leaving immediately; and then too there was a quarantine of three weeks between Smyrna and Alexandria. Of course it was more pleasant and profitable to spend these three weeks under the warmer sun and amid the wonders of Egypt, than to be shut up within the walls of a miserable lazaretto at Syra or Alexandria. It was arranged therefore with Mr. Smith, with the unanimous and hearty assent of his missionary brethren in Smyrna and Athens, that he should meet me at Cairo in the last days of February; and so leaving him to enjoy the quarantine alone, we set our faces directly towards Egypt.

We embarked at the Piraeus on the evening of Dec. 25th, on board the steamer Baron Eichhof; and at sunrise next morning were off the north end of Syra, surrounded by a splendid array of picturesque islands, the Cyclades of former days. Behind us lay Jura, Zea, and Thermia. In the N. W. were visible the lofty mountains on the southern end of Negropont, capped with snow; and in the S. W. were Serfo and Sifanto. Near at hand on our left were the large islands of Andros and Tinos, the former with snowy mountains; and before us, Mycone, Delos, and Great Delos. As we rounded the northern point of Syra, we came in sight of Naxos, Paros, and Anti-Paros; and could also see the high land of Nikeria over the southern extremity of Tinos. In a direction a little further to the south, I looked long for Patmos; but in vain. At 8 o'clock we cast anchor in the fine bay of Syra, on the eastern side of the island; which has of late years acquired celebrity as the chief commercial port of Greece, and the central point of meeting for all the various lines of French and Austrian steamers.

We passed here a very agreeable and very busy day, chiefly in the society of our kind American friends, the Rev. Dr. Robertson and his family, who have since removed to Constantinople. We visited their schools and printing establishment; and also the flourishing schools of the English Church Missionary Society, under the care of Messrs. Hildner and Wolters.-The old town of Syra lies on the sides of a conical hill at some distance from the shore, and contains 5000 inhabitants. The new town, which sprung into existence during the Greek revolution, lies upon the shore below; and is supposed to contain a population of 18,000 souls. Ship-building is here carried on extensively. The expenses of living are said to be greater in this town, than anywhere else in the Levant; chiefly because all articles of necessity or luxury must be brought from a distance; the island itself furnishing almost nothing.

We embarked again the same evening, Dec. 26th, for Alexandria, on board the steamer Prince Metternich, which was lying in quarantine. A thunder-storm which passed over the harbour, delayed our departure until after midnight. At sunrise we were abreast of the small island Polykandro on our left; having on our right Sifanto, Argentiera, Polino, and Milo; while behind Polykandro we could see Sikyno and Nio, and far in the S. E. the high volcanic island of Santorin, which Ritter had explored so thoroughly a few months before. At 10 o'clock Crete was visible; but was indistinct and covered with clouds. At evening we cast anchor in the harbour of Canéa, on the north coast of the island near its western end. This city contains about 6000 inhabitants; and lies like an amphitheatre around a small inner circular port, at the foot of a large bay setting up between the Capes Spada and Meleka; the land rising gradually from the water on VOL. I.

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all sides. Back of the city Mount Mélessa rises to the height of several thousand feet, and was then covered with deep snow; while far in the east, near the middle of the island, was seen the majestic and loftier form of Mount Ida, also white with snows, and glittering in the last beams of the setting sun.

The little port of Canéa is formed by an artificial mole, with a fortress on each side of the entrance. Here for the first time we beheld mosks and minarets, the latter crowned by the crescent; showing us that we had here entered a territory subject to the Muslim rule. It was now near the close of the fast of Ramadân; and the minarets were lighted up by rows of small lamps thickly suspended from the external galleries, producing a pleasing effect in the darkness of evening. Indeed the whole effect of the lights of the city at evening, rising on every side, was fine and imposing.

Crete is now under the dominion of the Pasha of Egypt; and at that time presented the rather singular anomaly even in oriental quarantines, that while Egypt itself had no quarantine against Greece, yet Crete had a quarantine against both Greece and Egypt. We were not permitted to land at Canéa; but some American missionary friends, to whom we had letters, kindly came off in a boat the next morning, and gratified us by a short visit along side. Mr. Benton and his family had then been established in Canéa about a year, with very encouraging prospects of usefulness and success.

We left Canea again at 11 o'clock A. M. Dec. 28th, and pursued our way along the northern coast of Crete. A strong N. E. wind had set in, which was contrary to us and raised a heavy sea; so that our progress was slow, and the motion of the vessel very uncomfortable. Clouds likewise gathered upon the island; permitting

us only occasional glimpses of the coast and the lofty brow of Ida. The next morning we were off the eastern end of Crete, which was just visible in a low line below the clouds which rested on it; and in the N. E. we could distinguish the high islands of Caso and Scarpanto. The N. E. wind was now more favourable, and our progress more rapid; but the weather was still cold and the motion uncomfortable. The next day, Dec. 30th, was warmer; and a heavy shower from the S. W. left a strong wind from that quarter, with much motion. Early in the afternoon we began to meet vessels which had left Alexandria with the change of wind. At 3 o'clock the column of Diocletian began to appear; then the tall masts of the Egyptian fleet, which was lying in the harbour; afterwards the Pasha's palace and other buildings; and finally the low coast. At 5 o'clock we gained the narrow entrance of the western port, following a pilot, who led the way in his small boat. He refused to come on board, saying we were to be in quarantine, a piece of news which somewhat alarmed our Captain; as he had left the port only a few days before in pratique, and had since been in no port against which there was a quarantine. Half an hour afterwards we cast anchor near the city, in the midst of the huge men of war which compose the Egyptian fleet. A boat with Frank health-officers soon ran along side. The officers came on board with all due precautions, and instituted a very strict scrutiny as to the passengers and letters; to the great surprise of our Captain, who had never experienced any thing of the kind before. The result of the scrutiny was in our favour; and all of a sudden the chief health-officer, a friend of the Captain, threw his arms around the latter; and the deck resounded with their mutual kisses and congratulations. We were not uninterested spectators