were standing near the large terebinth at the N. W. corner of the city-wall, the Mutesellim or governor with a party of ten or twelve horsemen passed by, on their return from a ride and from practising the Jerîd. They were all gaily caparisoned, and rode in fine style; their horses prancing and now and then darting off at full speed along the rocky road. At another time the dead monotony was broken in upon, by the departure of a large body of troops for Ramleh.

We took measurements within and without the city in all directions, without interruption, and without being subjected to the slightest inquiry or token of suspicion. Indeed, the indifference with which these operations were apparently regarded, was rather a matter of surprise. A few persons only occasionally stopped to look at us, and then passed on; and I am persuaded that neither in London nor New-York could any thing similar be undertaken, without exciting far more attention, and probably drawing together a crowd of idlers. We just pursued our own course; went where we would, and undertook what we pleased; asked no leave of the government or others, whenever it could be avoided; and thus encountered no opposition. In the one instance where we had occasion to ask a favour of the Kâim Makâm or military commander, it was courteously granted; in another instance, the Mufti declined to concede what he previously had expressed a willingness to have take place.

With the native population of the city, we had, through our friends, the opportunity of frequent intercourse, to any extent we might desire. The house of Mr. Lanneau, in which we resided, was situated in the Muhammedan quarter, next door to that of the Mufti of Jerusalem; and the circumstance of his having taken a house in their quarter and among

them, was looked upon with favour by the Muslims. His neighbours, some of the chief men of the city, were in the habit of making frequent calls; and an interchange of friendly courtesies was sedulously maintained. A native Greek merchant, Abu Selâmeh, who was seeking the appointment of agent from the American consul at Beirût, was very attentive; and through him and the chief physician or apothecary of the garrison, we received all the intelligence and current reports of the day.

The Mutesellim or governor of the city at this time, was Sheikh Mustafa, a young man of a fine figure and prepossessing countenance, the son of Sheikh Sa'îd, governor of Gaza. He was said however to be prejudiced against the Franks; and to be in the habit of turning an ungracious ear to all their applications. We had no occasion to apply to him while in Jerusalem; except once, as a matter of policy, to send our Firmân for his inspection before setting off for the Dead Sea; but we afterwards met him in Hebron and were struck with his graceful deportment. The Kâim Makâm, or military governor, was regarded as more frank and courteous; and our friends were in the habit of applying to him, when necessary, rather than to Sheikh Mustafa.

Our neighbour the Mufti called one morning soon after breakfast, and sat with us for an hour. This dignitary is in high repute among the Mussulmans ; being subordinate in rank only to the Muftis of Mecca and Constantinople. He was a fine looking man between sixty and seventy years of age, with a long white beard neatly trimmed, intelligent eyes, and great vivacity for a Muhammedan. He declined the proffered pipe, assuring us that he never smoked. He was near-sighted, and had an ordinary eye-glass; but my spectacles, and especially those of Mr. Homes, de

lighted him greatly. He was prompt in offering us all the facilities we might need in prosecuting our researches; and so far as his own personal feelings were concerned, this offer was perhaps sincere. The flat roof of Mr. Lanneau's house was separated from his premises only by a low parapet; and some of our friends having casually looked over it into his court, he had sent a civil message to request that this might not be done any more. One object of his present visit, was to apologize, or rather to explain the reason, for sending such a message.

Another day we had a similar call from Abu Ghûsh, the former governor of Jerusalem, noted as one of the Sheikhs of the village Kuryet el-'Enab on the way to Yâfa, where some years ago travellers were often robbed. He is now old, with a keen robber's eye, and an intelligent face. This is a family-name; and there are several brothers Abu Ghûsh. An older one, Ibrahîm, was the most notorious as a robber; but he was said not now to be acknowledged as the head of the family.

Before we left Cairo, intelligence had been received there of the insurrection of the Druzes in Haurân; and as they were known to be a brave and injured people, fears were entertained (and not unjustly) that a protracted war might follow, the end of which no one could foresee. The occasion of the insurrection was understood to be, the attempts of the Egyptian government to seize upon their young men by force, as recruits for the army. This kind of oppression had been already introduced into other parts of Syria, although not with the same success as in Egypt; but the comparatively free and high-spirited Druzes could not brook it. War ensued. The Druzes fought with desperation; and were killed outright whenever taken. Their country was overrun and

wasted; their villages burned with fire; their wives and children sold as slaves in the markets of Damascus. The survivors withdrew to the rocks and fastnesses of el-Lejah; for a time there would be a calm, and then the war burst forth again with redoubled fury. After continuing for more than a year, the war appears to have been finally terminated by the concession, on the part of the government, of all that for which the Druzes had at first taken up arms; a concession extorted perhaps by the indications of an approaching war with Turkey.

During our journey through the deserts South of Palestine, we of course heard little of this war. The Bedawîn knew that it had broken out; but they had no definite information respecting it; and the scene of conflict was too remote to affect them directly, .or awaken an interest in their bosoms. When we arrived at Jerusalem, the first throes of the struggle were not yet over; and the minds of men were in uncertainty. For some time no definite intelligence had been received from the seat of war; and the city was full of rumours. No one knew where Ibrahîm Pasha was; and it was even said that a large body of his troops had been defeated, and another party of several hundreds wholly cut off. In this state of things, the unquiet spirits of the land, who under the strong arm of Egyptian rule had become quiet and peaceable citizens, began to rouse themselves, and desired again to taste the sweets of anarchy and lawless depredation. Several robberies and murders were committed in the vicinity of Jerusalem; one of which has been already alluded to. In another instance a pilgrim was shot, robbed, and left wounded on the road to Yâfa. He was brought to the city, and some of our friends saw him lying helpless and 1) See above, p. 323.

apparently dying, in the open court of the Greek convent, waiting until the authorities of the city or the convent should make some provision for his need. Reports of other robberies were very frequent; but were evidently much exaggerated, if not wholly groundless.

Under these circumstances, the prospect before us was dreary; and it was for a time doubtful, whether we should be able to travel at all in the country, without (or even with) an armed guard. Were the Druzes able to maintain themselves and make head against the Pasha's troops, then all the roads in Palestine would become unsafe; for however well affected the better portion of the people might be, still this would not keep in check the bands of lawless adventurers, who were only waiting for an opportunity to prowl over the country. Many days however had not elapsed, before the certain news arrived that Ibrahîm was at Damascus, where he had concentrated his troops; and that he had totally defeated the Druzes. After this all was again quiet; the reports of robbery and murder were no longer heard; and we subsequently travelled through the length and breadth of the land without fear or interruption; indeed, with the same feeling of security as in England or our native country. It was not until two months later, that a fresh outbreak of the insurrection in the region of Jebel esh-Sheikh, hindered us from approaching Damascus.

As if we were to have a specimen of all the evils to which the oriental world is exposed, a few days after our arrival in the Holy City, rumours of the plague began to be circulated. It had broken out with violence in Alexandria; and in consequence a strict quarantine had been established at Yâfa. Yet on Sunday, April 22d, the report came that the plague had made its appearance in Yâfa also; supposed to have been introduced by pilgrims from the southern