ings also were mostly taken by Mr. Smith; since it often required a great deal of questioning and crossexamination, in order to extract the necessary information from the Arabs as to distant places and their This department therefore naturally fell to him; while I contented myself usually with taking the bearings of such places as were already known to us. It is only since my return, that I became aware of the value of the materials thus collected, in a geographical point of view, from the judgment passed on them by eminent geographers; and I look back with painful regret on the circumstances, which prevented me from taking along more perfect instruments, and from obtaining a more exact knowledge of the observations necessary for the trigonometrical construction of a map.

With books we were better supplied. First of all we had our BIBLES, both in English and in the original tongues; and then RELAND'S Palæstina, which next to the Bible is the most important book for travellers in the Holy Land. We had also RAUMER'S Palästina, BURCKHARDT's Travels in Syria and the Holy Land, the English compilation from LABORDE'S Voyage en Arabie Petrée, and the Modern Traveller in Arabia, Palestine, and Syria. Were I to make the journey again, considering the difficulty of transporting books, I should hardly add much to the above list, excepting perhaps a compendious History of the Crusades, and the volume of RITTER'S Erdkunde, containing Palestine in the second edition. At Jerusalem we had access to the works of Josephus, and of several travellers.— We had with us LABORDE's large Map of Sinai and Arabia Petraea; and also BERGHAUS' Map of Syria, the best undoubtedly up to the present time, but which was of little service to us in the parts of the country we visited.

SECTION II.

FROM CAIRO TO SUEZ.

THE preparations for a journey of some thirty days through the desert, occupied a good deal of time. A tent was to be purchased and fitted up; water-skins were to be procured and kept full of water, which was to be changed every day in order to extract the strong taste of the leather; provisions were to be laid in for a whole month, as we could hope to obtain little either at Suez or at the Convent; besides all the numerous smaller articles which are essential to the traveller's progress and health, even if he renounce all expectation of convenience and comfort. In all these purchases we were greatly indebted to the faithful services of our Janizary Mustafa, whom we remember with gratitude.

We chose a large tent with a single pole. This was folded into two rolls, for which we had sacks; so that it was easily packed and loaded, and suffered little damage on the way. We had large pieces of painted canvass to spread upon the ground under our beds; and found these more convenient than poles or bedsteads; as the matresses could be rolled up in them during the day, and thus be protected from dust or rain. At a later period, when we came to travel with horses and mules in Palestine, we left our matresses behind, taking only blankets and other covering, which might by day be thrown over our saddles. Indeed, if VOL. I. 7

he choose, the traveller can very well do without either bed or tent, provided he has cloaks and covering enough to protect him from the night-chill. But to us it was important to keep a tolerably full record of our observations; and for this a tent and lights were necessary. Our provisions consisted chiefly of rice and biscuit. The latter is bulky; and at a later period we substituted for it flour, from which our servants made unleavened bread; this was baked in thin cakes upon an iron plate, and proved quite palatable and not unwholesome. Flesh may be obtained occasionally from the Arabs upon the way. With coffee, tea, sugar, butter, dried apricots, tobacco, wax-candles, etc. we were well supplied. We found the dried apricots quite a luxury in the desert; and a timely distribution of coffee and tobacco among the Arabs is an easy mode of winning their favour and confidence. We had wooden boxes, like those of the Mecca pilgrims, for packing many of the articles; but afterwards abandoned them for small sacks and larger saddle-bags of hair-cloth, like those of, the Bedawîn. These proved to be more advantageous, as diminishing the bulk of the loads, and thus removing a source of expense and a cause of grumbling among the camel-drivers and muleteers. We took also a supply of charcoal, which proved of essential service.

We hired two Egyptian servants, who continued with us all the way to Beirût. The elder, whom we knew only by the name of Komeh, (although that seemed not to be his real name,) was a fine resolute fellow, faithful and trust-worthy in all he undertook, and ready to stand by us to the last drop of blood. He spoke nothing but Arabic; had formerly been sent with a missionary family to Abyssinia, as their guide and purveyor; and had also been at Mecca; for which reason he was sometimes dignified with the title of

Hajji Komeh. The younger, Ibrahim, spoke a little English, and answered our purpose well enough as a helper to the other.

It was for a time quite a matter of deliberation with us, whether we should take any arms. We knew that the country was entirely safe, and arms unnecessary, as far as 'Akabah, and also in Palestine; but as to the desert tracts between, we were not so sure. We might very probably come in contact with the lawless hordes that roam through these wastes; and then the mere show of arms would protect us from annoyance and vexations, which might be attempted if we were known to be wholly unarmed. On this ground we purchased two old muskets and a pair of old pistols, in which our servants and Arab guides usually took great pride; and we afterwards had reason to believe that we had acted wisely. It will of course be understood, that we never had a thought of actually using these weapons for personal defence against the Arabs; for this, we knew, would only bring down tenfold vengeance on our heads.

The time has gone by when it was necessary for a Frank to assume the oriental dress in any part of Egypt or Syria. It may sometimes be convenient to do so, if he is to reside long in the country; but in the case of the mere traveller, it now only excites the ridicule of the natives. A person in a Frank dress, with a long beard, they hold to be a Jew. We usually wore the Tarbûsh or red cap of the country, as a matter of convenience; but in the desert a broad-brimmed hat of light materials is desirable. We also took with us each a common Arab cloak, to throw over our Frank dresses in case of suspicious appearances at a distance; but we were never called to use them on any occasion of this kind.

In consequence of an application from Mr. Gliddon

senior, we received from the Pasha a Firmân, or properly speaking a Bûyuruldy, for our protection; and the English Vice-Consul, Dr. Walne, was so kind as to procure for us a letter from Habîb Effendi to the Governor of 'Akabah, and another from the Greek Convent in Cairo to that in Mount Sinai. At the English Consulate we also found Bedawîn from Sinai; many of whom are continually in Cairo with their camels, and are much employed in transporting coals from thence to Suez, for the steam-vessels on the Red Sea. We had wished to obtain Tuweileb as our guide, who has of late years become so well known among travellers; but he was not then in Cairo. We therefore, with the help of the English Dragoman, made a contract for camels and attendants with Beshârah, who had formerly accompanied Laborde, and was now grown into a man of weight in his tribe, though not a regular Sheikh. After a long talk and some clamour, the bargain was completed for three dromedaries and five camels, at the rate of one hundred and ninety Piastres each, from Cairo to 'Akabah;' it being also agreed that Tuweileb should accompany us from the Convent. The contract was immediately written down by an ordinary scribe upon his knee, and signed and sealed in a very primitive manner. Most of the Arabs of the towns have each his signet-ring, either worn on the finger or suspended from the neck; the impression of which serves as his signature; but the poor Bedawy of the desert commonly has little to do with such matters, and has therefore no seal. Instead

1) The Spanish pillared dollar, or colonnato, was then regularly worth in Egypt and Syria 21 Piastres; while all other dollars, Austrian, Italian, or American, were valued at 20 Piastres. In Constantinople the Spanish dollar fluctuated between 22 and 23 Piastres;

and the others were usually current at about 21 Piastres.-The most acceptable coin among the Arabs were the small gold pieces of nine Piastres; though they also took the larger gold coins without difficulty.