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PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
COASTING.
First Sight of Iceland - Hjörleif's Head-Dyrhólar-The Westmann
Islands - Life of the Islanders The Yankee's Story - My first
Saga: "The Red Rovers"-Cape Reykjanes-The Mealsack—
The Great Auk
CHAPTER II.
REYKJAVÍK.
PAGE
xii
xix
1
Arrival-Description of Reykjavík-" A very Antient fish-like Smell!"
The School-The Residence The Cathedral Thorwaldsen-
Icelandic Silverwork-The Merchant Stores-Mr. Briggs and the
Porters-Dinner-I visit the Rector-A would-be Suicide-The
Catholic Mission-The Origin of Iceland
26
CHAPTER III.
MOSFELL.
-
Leave Reykjavík-Rich Soil-Leiruvogr-Accidents-Camp out- A
lazy Guide Arctic Midnight Rank Breakfast-The Story of
Sonartorrek-Alpine Road-Icelandic Dogs-A Farmhouse-Filth
-On the Heithi-Birds-Icelandic Indifference-Arrival at Thing-
völlum-A Quarrel
43
CHAPTER IV.
THINGVELLIR.
The Plains of the Council-The Almanna-gjá-The Hill of Laws-
History of Althing-Lava Broth-Icelandic Food-Butter-Curd
-Lichen-Sunday-The Burning of the Hostel: a Saga.
67
CHAPTER V.
AMONG THE JOKULLS.
Leave Thingvellir-Meyjar-skarth-A lovely View-The Big Bed breaks
loose-Grettis-tak-A mysterious Vale-Attempts to re-discover
it-Ascent of Geitland's Jökull-Brunnir - Dearth of Fuel-
Kaldidalr-The Old Woman of Bones-A Vale of Desolation-A
Tract of Ash-Kalmanstúnga-Robbers
CHAPTER VI.
THE EAGLE TARNS.
Eiriks Jökull Taxation - The Sheep's Disease-A Swan's-nest-Lava
-Lose our Way - Camping out Glorious Scene - Cooking
Arrangements-Rare Skua-Great Northern Diver-Storm on the
Heithi-Gunnarssonarvatn - The Great Eagle Tarn-Desert-
Hólma-kvísl
86
99
CHAPTER VII.
THE VAMPIRE'S GRAVE.
Barren Wilderness-A Cairn-The Valley of Shadows: a Saga-A
magnificent Gorge-Waterfalls-The Vatnsdalr-Arrival at Grím-
stúnga
. 115
CHAPTER VIII.
THE VALE OF WATERS.
Vatnsdalr-Forsæludalr-A dangerous Predicament - Thorolf wi' the
Dead-face-An ancient Fort Colonization of Vatnsdalr-Hóf-
The Story of Hrolleifr: a Saga-MSS.-Old Nick - Icelandic
Endearments-Music-Haukagil-Undirfell
CHAPTER IX.
FROM HNAUSIR TO EYJA FJORD.
A Tract of Slag Cones-An Icelandic Doctor-Part from my Friends-
Giljá-Conversion of Iceland-Svínavatn-Icelandic Churches-A
miserable Lodging-Slang-Harlequin Duck-Ford the Blandá—
Vatnsskarth-Vithimyri-Purchase a Horse-Ford the Heradsvatn
-Miklibor-Oxnadals Heithi-Steinstathr-A Caravan-Strange
Merchandise-The Princess Alexandra-A Death .
CHAPTER X.
AKUREYRI.
A little Town-New Church-Site of the Town injudiciously chosen
-The Post-Grimsey-An Island Cure-Danish Hospitality-The
Newspaper Office-Supper-English Vessels-Jack Tar in Iceland
-Trees-MSS.-Icelandic Poetry-The Dream-Ballad
CHAPTER XI.
155
171
UXAHVER.
A second Guide Icelandic Horse-calls- A theological Candidate
Vathlaskarth-Wood in the Fnjoská-dale-Háls-Ljósavatn-The
Raven-Myth regarding it-Extent to which the Myth has spread-
Góthafoss- Flowers Cross the Flood of Quivering Waves
Acquaintances-Lava Cracks-Grenjatharstathr-Uxahver-Boil-
ing Springs-The Wild Huntsman-Origin of the Myth-Myvatn. 184
CHAPTER XII.
A REGION OF FIRE.
Myvatn-Lava Streams-Reykjahlith-Sand Columns-A Plain of Boil-
ing Mud-Chaldrons-Krafla-Obsidian Mountain-A Ride over
a Desert-Eylifr-A wretched Farm-Dettifoss-A magnificent Fall
-Volcanic Cones-Return to Reykjahlith
. 205
CHAPTER XIII.
A SNOW PASS.
I hold a Levee-My Plans upset-The Church of Thverá-Taking French
Leave Swimming across a River - MSS. Sagas-Jón's Bills-
Runaway Ponies-Rocky Spires-Perverseness of Grímr-A
Mountain Sel-A fearful Pass-Snowbridge-A desperate Scramble
-Stone Bog-Midnight on the Snow-A crumbling Snowbridge-
Arrival at Hólar-An alarming Proposal.
CHAPTER XIV.
HÓLAR.
The Cathedral-Altar Vestments-Triptych-Portraits and Tombs-
MSS. The Ancient Possessions of the Church-Repairs-Flowers
-The Skagafjord-Drangey-Birds-Gannet-Puffin—Skua
235
CHAPTER XV.
The Outlaw's Isle : a Saga
CHAPTER XVI.
FROM SKAGAFJORD TO MITHFJORD.
Svathastathr-Heathen Charity-Church of Vithimyri-An odd Cow--
Borg, an old Castle-Queen Victoria's Cousin-Icelandic Duck-
The long-tailed Duck-Red-necked Phalaropes-Deep Bogs-Melr
-A happy Meeting-A Wedding-Female Dress-Music-National
Anthem-Michaelmas Hymn-Mr. Briggs in Love-Church Service
-Sacred Music-Ecclesiastical Position of the Icelandic Establish-
ment
CHAPTER XVII.
THE MIDDLE FRITH.
Glacial Action-Bjarg: the Home of Grettir - Cairn-Spear-head-
Carved Stone-Magical Characters-The Story of the Banded-men:
. 246
. 278
. 297
Leave Melr-Icelandic Etiquette-A beautiful Frith-Mr. Briggs's Story
-Thorodds-stathr-Row across the Fjord-Merchant Vessels-
Hospitality-Mr. Briggs recovers his Heart-Trouble with the Pack-
saddle-Holtavörthu Heithi-Sclavonian Grebe-Arctic Foxes-
Icelandic Traditions concerning the Fox-Icelandic Mice-Tra-
vellers' Tales - Swans -Terns-Difficult Pass-Baula-MSS.—
Church of Hvammr
. 817
CHAPTER XIX.
THE VALE OF SMOKE.
Runaway Horses-Grjótháls-Glorious View-I succeed in Mastering the
Horses-Cruelty to Birds-The Future of Animals-Ptarmigan-
Whimbrel and Plover-A Heithi-Icelandic Way of Sleeping-
Names-Tunguhver-Boiling Jets in a River-Reykholt-Snorro's
Bath-The Church-Snorro Sturlason
. 331
CHAPTER XX.
όκ.
Ascend the Side of Ók-Flowers-Strange Sight-Skogkottr-Meet old
344
CHAPTER XXI.
GEYSIR.
Laugarvatn
-An
Flowers-A natural Chimney-Extensive Plain
eccentric Bridgè-Uthlith-Sleeping in a Church-Position of the
Geysir District-Description of the Springs-The Little Geysir-
Jack in the Box-Boiling Wells-Strokr-Blue Ponds-Experi-
ments-Great Geysir-Keeping Watch-Magnificent Explosion-
Mr. Briggs misses seeing it-Theory of the Geysir
854
. 368
Leave Geysir-Last View of Heckla-The rumoured Eruption of Skapta
-Return to Thingvöllum-Latin Conversation-Seljadalr-The
Plague of Flies-Halt at a Farm-A fair Haymaker-The Spell
broken-Return to Reykjavík-Sale of Horses-Icelandic Ponies-
Their strong and weak Points-Leave Iceland-The Captain's Joke
Reach England-Advice to Travellers
. 385
APPENDICES.
APPENDIX A.-Ornithology of Iceland, by A. Newton, Esq.