The Rise and Fall of Art Needlework: Its Socio-economic and Cultural AspectsIn the nineteenth century a new needlework style 'Art Embroidery' gave rise to major commercial ventures of the time. The significance of these ventures is explored, particularly the contribution made by women employed in this industry. Auditing their working practices, then relating this to our understanding of gender history. These ventures stimulated the commercial side of embroidery in the late nineteenth century, by mobilising commercial activity through numerous agencies, department stores, depots and charitable institutions. A craft became a major industry, and in examining these important developments, the organisational structure of these enterprises, their marketing techniques in relationship to their predominantly female workforce, will be evaluated. The theme of business enterprise is a conduit which runs throughout, yet the work is not intended as an economic history, rather business history, as social history. The growth and development of 'Art Embroidery' in Britain circa 1870-1890 will be explored giving special consideration to the support received from the art establishment in designing for and educating embroiderers. Initially designing for the massive church building programme being conducted in Britain, the immense popularity of medieval and oriental designs employed in this work, lead also to a demand for secular work. As with all art, design changes are a derivative of social and political changes. These deterministic style changes were reliant upon imperialism, Said's notion of 'the other', but perhaps more interestingly upon white man's burden of manifest destiny, illustrated by Liberty department store. Finally, the decline of the embroidery business in the British Isles will be examined as work was sent overseas chasing cheaper labour in the colonies. Aiming to make a contribution to our understanding of the embroidery business, the book shows the dynamics shaping development and the role of women employed in the industry. In particular the economic significance of the embroidery business to female employment in the nineteenth century will be revealed, as it has been hidden from view, mainly due to employing outworkers, a hidden workforce. Though a social history, the thesis will demonstrate this hidden workforce made a contribution to the British economy. |
Contents
The Commercialisation of Art Embroidery | 1 |
Chapter | 15 |
The Genesis of Art Embroidery | 21 |
viii | 25 |
Chapter 3 | 44 |
Chapter 4 | 65 |
Chapter 5 | 88 |
Elizabeth Wardle and the formation | 95 |
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aesthetic architects architecture argued Art Embroidery Art Journal Art Needlework artists Arts and Crafts Barbara Morris became Berlin Wool Britain British Burne-Jones catalogue chapter church colours Comitini commercial commissions Crafts Essays Crafts Exhibition Society Crafts Movement Debenham Decorative Art department stores Design and Enterprise Directory dress Eastlake ecclesiastical embroidery Elizabeth embroidered embroidery department embroidery school employed employment factory Fancy Repositories firm George Wardle Gothic Revival Grammar of Ornament Harvey and Press History Ibid Indian industry Japanese lace Lady Wardle Leek Embroidery Society Liberty Liberty's Mackail manufacture Mayhew middle class Morris & Co Morris's nineteenth century organisation oriental ornament outworkers Owen Jones Parry pattern philanthropic ventures Pre-Raphaelites Pressmark production promote Pugin retail Royal School RSAN Ruskin and Morris School of Art selling silk social Staffordshire stitch style sweated labour textiles Thomas Wardle thread trade Victorian wages Walter Crane Wardle's whilst William Morris women workers wrote