Page images
PDF
EPUB
[blocks in formation]

enlisted, performed these motions in my presence ten times in that period by my watch.

At Konigberg, as I was sitting down to dinner, a portly soldier, in the Prussian uniform, opened the door, and addressed me in English. With much address and respect, under the venial pretence of my not having written my name legibly at the barrier, he introduced himself to me, and enabled me very soon to discover that he was one of those infatuated Irishmen, who having incurred the displeasure of the British government, had been plucked from a station of respectability, and the bosom of a beloved family, exiled from his country, and doomed to wear the habit, and endure the discipline of a Prussian soldier for ten wretched years, five of which he had already survived. The poor fellow acknowledged the fatal delusion which had thus torn him from all that was dear to him, and reduced him to the humiliation of gladly receiving a dollar from a stranger.

Between Gruneberg and Freyenwalde I passed the Oder, which flows to the walls of Olmutz, rendered eminently fami liar to the memory by the cruel captivity of La Fayette, and the spirit of British generosity which restored him and his lovely Marchioness to light and liberty.

Upon our leaving Freyenwalde, we ploughed our way

[blocks in formation]

through the dark forests and trackless sands of Brandenbourg, the latter of which Frederic the Great highly valued as a national barrier, capable of impeding and embarrassing an approaching enemy. Of their depth and dreariness no one can judge, but those who have waded through them: we quitted them with great joy to roll merrily along over a noble new royal road, of about ten English miles in length, lined with sapling lindens; and, early on the eighth day from my leaving Dantzig, I passed the gate of the wall which surrounds Berlin, and with forty-one ducats discharged my companion at the Hotel de Russie.

Having refreshed myself, I sallied into the Linden Walk, which is very broad, is formed of triple rows of the graceful and umbrageous tree from which it receives its name, and is situated in the centre of the street, having carriage roads on each side, from which it is protected by a handsome line of granite posts connected by bars of iron, and illuminated at night by large reflecting lamps, suspended over the centre by cords, stretched from corresponding supporters of wrought iron : its length is about an English mile, and presents at one end the rich portico of the marble opera-house and the palace, and at the other the celebrated Brandenbourg gate, designed by Monsieur Langhans from the Propylium of Athens, and raised in 1780. This superb monument of tasteful architecture is a stone colonnade, of a light reddish-yellow colour,

[graphic][merged small][merged small][subsumed]
[blocks in formation]

composed of twelve grand fluted Corinthian columns, fortyfour feet high, and five feet seven inches in diameter, six on each side, leaving a space for the gates to fold between, presenting five colossal portals, through which the park is seen in fine perspective. The wings composing the custom and guard houses are adorned with eighteen lesser columns, twenty-nine feet high and three feet in diameter: the whole is crowned by colossal figures of the Angel of Peace driving four horses abreast in a triumphal car, below which are rich basso relievos. This most elegant structure, and the Walk of Lindens, are unique, and would abundantly repay any traveller for the fatigues of an eight days' journey to behold them. In the walk, although the weather was very cold, several ladies were promenading without caps or bonnets, and others were riding astride on horseback, according to the fashion of the country, in a long riding habit, pantaloons, and half-boots. In the street scarcely any other objects were to be seen, than

"the soldier and his sword."

Upon ascending the gallery of the superb dome of the institution of the poor, in the grand market place, I commanded the wall of the city, the dimensions of which are small, I should not think larger than those of Bath; but having been the result of one design,, and in a great measure built in one reign, it has the advantage of being regular. The river Spree runs through it, and is adorned by some handsome stone bridges. The streets

« PreviousContinue »