limits of an essay, but it cannot fail to be interesting to recall the great part that the needle has played in the annals of mankind. Pliny seems to be the authority from whom most writers derive their accounts of ancient garments and needlework. He speaks of tapestry work, and says that Homer witnesseth that they of the Old World used the same much, and took great delight therein. In Homer's time, also, they used garments embroidered with "imagerie and floure work." As for embroidery itself, and needlework, "it was the Phrygians' invention, and hereupon embroideries be called phrygiones." Pliny also mentions the embroidered robes of Servius Tullius. The embroideries of Penelope, Helen, and Andromache were proverbial. In the Middle Ages most of the Celtic and Anglo-Saxon ladies were accomplished needlewomen. Queen Edgitha, wife of Edward the Confessor; Queen Bertha, mother of Charlemagne; and Queen Emma, wife of Canute, being particularly skilful in this art. St. Ethelreda designed and worked a stole for St. Cuthbert. It is related that the Irish Danes when they went to conquer Northumbria, bore before them a banner upon which the sacred raven had been worked by their princess in "one noontide"; it was held in great veneration by the troops. Another famous piece of work is the dalmatic worked for Charlemagne by the Anglo-Saxon ladies; this is now in the Vatican. The famous Syon Cope in the South Kensington Museum is of exquisite beauty, and was worked in 1250 by the inmates of a religious house in Coventry. The Stonyhurst Cope is known to have been made at Florence, and was left by Henry VII. to "God, St. Peter, and our monastery of Westminster." One of the most magnificent specimens of ancient needlework in existence, is the State Pall belonging to the Fishmongers' Company; it represents St. Peter in pontifical robes on a superb throne and crowned with the tiara, giving his benediction, and surrounded by angels, whose wings are composed of peacocks' feathers. When visiting Cairo, some years ago, we saw the embroidered tent of Queen Isi-em-Kebs, mother-in-law to Shishak, whose daughter married King Solomon, and who took Jerusalem in the time of King Rehoboam, and plundered the Temple. The tent is preserved in the Boulak Museum, and is composed of tiny pieces of kid, dyed various colours, and arranged in different patterns. Sir J. Chardin mentions a late King of Persia, who had a tent made in gold embroidery which

cost £2,000,000 sterling; it was called the house of gold. Fabulous sums are paid by rich Brazilian gentlemen at the present day, for embroidered hammocks. It is quite common to see from five hundred to a thousand pounds each given for those for everyday use. Some of the embroidery is most beautiful feathers being extensively used.

During the Middle Ages ladies found ample occupation in working for their warrior husbands, and for the Church. The education of a girl was not considered complete till she had spent some time in a convent, and had learned the art of needlework. Fuller in his Church History says: "Whilst monks' pens were thus employed, nuns with their needles wrote histories also."

In the classics we find constant mention of embroidered sails; Shakespeare's description of the barge of Cleopatra, when she embarked on the River Cydnus to meet Antony, poetical as it is, seems to be rigidly correct in detail. The Popes have always been great lovers of needlework. Pope Eutychianus, who lived in the reign of the Emperor Aurelian, buried in different places, 342 martyrs, with his own hands, and he commanded that a martyr should on no account be interred without an em-. broidered dalmatic robe. Forty years later Pope Sylvester was invested in a Phrygian robe of snowy white, embroidered by busy female hands, which was considered so magnificent that it was ordained to be worn by his successors, on state occasions. History also mentions the beautiful embroideries which Popes Leo III. in the 8th century and Paschal in the 9th caused to be made as offerings to St. Peter's. Leo IV. and Pope Stefans had also hangings made for the great altar wrought with peacocks. In those days there was a high emblematical value attached to peacocks, and they are frequently introduced into religious designs. Last year we had the pleasure of visiting Pope Leo XIII.'s summer villa in the Vatican gardens, and in it are to be seen some exquisite specimens of modern needlework. The Altar of the Oratory is completely covered with the finest embroidery, representing scenes from Our Lord's life. There are also several fine pieces of tapestry, and most of the carpets are worked with the needle.

Amongst the distinguished needlewomen of later times we find some very learned ones, which tends to show that literary talent or head education does not interfere with that feminine employment which adds most absolutely to the comforts and

elegances of life. At Zurich is shown a toilet-cover beautifully embroidered by Lady Jane Grey, and presented by her to the reformer Bullinger, and side by side is the MS. of her Latin letters to him. Catherine of Aragon taught the English ladies what is now known as Spanish work. Anne Boleyn learned embroidery at the French Court, and introduced several new stitches into England. Catherine de Medicis, Jeanne d'Albret, Marie de Medicis, Anne of Austria, and Maria Teresa were experts in the art. Madame de Maintenon established a School of Needlework at St. Cyr. Several pieces of embroidery have been left by poor Marie Antoinette. Queen Mary of England embroidered the entire Psalter. The unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots found a solace to her weary hours of captivity in her needle, and several pieces which she presented to Elizabeth with the hope of conciliation are recorded; one was a canopy, which was placed in the Presence Chamber of Whitehall. “She continued so long at the embroidery till very pain made her give it up." History also says that she embroidered a waistcoat for her son James, and that the heartless prince refused it, because his mother, who was still Queen of Scotland, addressed it to him as Prince. Queen Elizabeth was an accomplished needlewoman, and many specimens of her work still remain. She also loved finery and embroidered clothes. When Latimer, Bishop of London, preached against women's vanity in decking their bodies too finely, her Majesty told her ladies that if "the Bishop held more discourse on such matters, she would fit him for Heaven; but that he should walk thither without a staff, and leave his mantle behind him." John Taylor, the poet, wrote at this time a poem, "The Praise of the Needle," in which he brings in "tent worke, raised worke, laid worke, frost worke, net worke, purles, Italian cut worke, fern stitche, new stitche and chain stitche, red stitche, fisher stitche, Irish stitche, Queen stitche, Spanish stitche, rosemary stitche, mouse stitche, whip stitche, back stitche, and crosse stitche."

If our Government at home could only be induced to give a substantial subsidy to establish a proper Technical School for girls in Dublin, what a revolution it would make. Irish girls can learn anything, and none have more artistic feeling. There are several industries almost unknown in Ireland which give occupation to hundreds of girls in France, Belgium, and Bavaria, and there is no reason why they might not be equally successful

with us. The manageress of the largest establishment for making artificial flowers in Brussels told the writer that, twenty years ago, all the artificial flowers used in Belgium were imported from Paris. "Now," she said, smilingly, "we not only supply our own country, but also export quantities to England, and this, notwithstanding that all our materials come from Paris, and pay duty." In Ireland the materials would pay no duty; all that is wanted to start this industry are a small capital to begin with, and an up-to-date teacher from Paris or Brussels to teach a Normal Class. We know from official returns that about £900,000 worth of artificial flowers are imported every year into Great Britain. Why should not Irish girls benefit by this industry as well as French and Belgian girls? A thousand pounds would be ample to start it. From enquiries I made myself, a first-rate teacher (the very best to be had; no other will do) will cost £100 a year-that is, £60 salary and £40 for board and lodging. The industry might be placed in charge of nuns, thus saving house rent; this would leave a large margin for materials, instruments, etc. The Normal pupils should pay a fee, as in similar schools on the Continent, and in a very short time the industry ought to be self-supporting.

It is impossible to lay too much stress on the fact that anything of a slipshod or inferior make must result in dismal failure. The principal market to be sought is London, and if flowers of first-class finish can be delivered there at a fraction below the present prices, the financial success of the project is only a question of months. The materials of which artificial flowers are composed are made by machinery in certain factories in Paris, but they cannot be put together by machinery, and this circumstance renders hand work indispensable for flowermaking.

MARION MULHALL.

DICK STEELE'S DUEL (1700).

“We'll drink, and we'll never ha' done, boys,
Put the glass, then, around with the sun, boys.
Let Apollo's example invite us ;

For he's drunk every night,

And that makes him so bright,

That he's able next morning to light us."

'HE verse, which was sung lustily to the accompaniment of

THE

rattling glasses, was part of a song from Will Congreve's latest play. The singers were a party of young bloods, many of whom were in military uniforms, who had met at the Rose Tavern Captain Steele, of his Majesty's Coldstream Guards, presided at the head of the table. His homely features had a peculiarly pleasant air about them, and his conversation marked him as being at the same time conversant with men and books-one no less popular with grave scholars than with pretty fellows.

"The play's the thing," he said, as the shouting and laughter subsided; “but, egad! I'm astonished such a play does not take the town by storm."

Is it that Collier has made the fashion of affecting morality so prevalent, that our fine ladies are set upon denouncing the play? Later on, perhaps, they may even practise virtue as something entirely new."

The speaker was Edward Lord Hinchinbroke, a young nobleman who affected wit.

"You should not become a detractor of the fair sex, i'faith," said Steele, "for there's not a man in town to whom they are kinder. Many a pretty fellow would risk his life for one of the thousand glances that are thrown after your red heels.”

This sally set the company laughing at the young beau's expense, who smiled complacently, as he combed the curls of his full-bottomed wig with an ivory comb.

"Prythee, my Lord Forbes," said Steele, "nodding to a handsome youth in the livery of the Guards, who sat opposite to him, "let us practise what we preach: the bottle lags behind you. A bumper to the fair sex, including the adorable Mrs. Milamont. If all the sex had her wit there would be but few old bachelors: she is almost more charming than 'Dear Lady Disdain.""