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shown a machine, bearing date 1678, by which fifty muskets could be let off in any direction and at any angle by the application of a single match. The neatness of the arrangement is extraordinary; and the compact form and diminutive size of the case in which they are contained, still more so. The construction of the instrument has not been improved by the science of the hundred and fifty odd years which have passed since this murderous bijou was fabricated; for it was clearly demonstrated to us that in no case could the agent employed to let it off be wounded by it. But the construction of this perfect specimen was, we were told, extremely costly.

I should prolong my letter to a volume, were I to enumerate all the rich, rare, queer, odd, interesting articles contained in this very comprehensive museum; but there is one more which I must mention, because to me it was incomparably the most interesting of all. This was the tattered trophy composed of the standard, hat, and arms of Godfrey of Bouillon. These almost sacred relics were presented to Austria, as we were told, by the Pope but what Pope, my treacherous memory forbids me to tell you. Whether from reverence for his cause or for his character, or from affection to the delicious lay which has added such glorious rays to the immortality of both, I know not, but certainly I did pause long before this, and plagued our good conductor by slipping back, after he thought that he

had at last got me fairly away from it, to touch with an ungloved hand a fragment of his sacred banner, and to look again upon the beaver that had shaded his noble brow. I never remember to have felt so thankful for the perfect belief that what I looked upon was the genuine thing it purported to be, as on this occasion. The standard (which so many valiant eyes have looked upon) is of crimson silk, spotted with gold; and though almost dropping asunder with age, it is still rich in colour. In the centre of it is painted a figure of Christ crucified, as large as life. I almost doubt whether the reverence of the Romish Church for well-authenticated relics deserves all the ridicule which our reformed wisdom throws upon it. I confess I do not quite approve the attributing miraculous powers to them; but, leaving all such quackery out of the question, there is something very moving and exciting to the affections in the close contact with objects connected with what we greatly reverence.

It is abominable to hurry through the city arsenal, as I must perforce do, for fear of wearying you too entirely with the subject; for it is deserving, instead of a passing word, of long and patient examination, being filled with antiquities and curiosities of the very highest class of interest. To enter into anything like a full account of this, is impossible. The feature most strongly marked throughout the whole collection, is the mixed feeling of resentment against the Turks for having dared to make their

crescents gleam upon this Christian city, and triumph at having so very satisfactorily driven them off again. Turkish arms, therefore, and Turkish banners, Turkish saddles and Turkish drums, Turkish shawls, and Turkish turbans, contribute in no inconsiderable degree to the collection. One memento of the last siege is a very ghastly one, being no other than the scull of the strangled vizier, who met the fate of all unsuccessful Turks (at least in those days of Ottoman barbarity), and peace having been happily concluded between the Porte and the Empire, this grinning remnant of him who had so disturbed their quiet (though in vain) was sent in proof of amity from the Sultan. The crimson cord that punished his ill fortune is still about his neck; and it would be difficult to turn the eye in any direction round him without its encountering some testimony of Christian triumph and Mahometan defeat.

This collection is enriched with many suits of handsome and curious armour. Among these we noticed several that had been used by the municipal guard of Vienna: they were dated 1546, and each suit was numbered on the breast.

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Since my last letter, we have had the honour of dining at Prince Metternich's. His mansion is a very splendid one, and the entertainment extremely elegant. The English ambassador, Lord Alvanley, and several other gentlemen whom we had met be

fore, as well as some who were strangers to us, were of the party.

His highness loses nothing by being looked at and listened to again and as to the princess, she is so very fascinating a person, that those whose fate must ultimately throw them at a distance from her should take care betimes not to like her too well. There is a variety, a mobility of countenance in her, that attracts the attention with a charm which it is difficult to describe; and moreover, she is more perfectly free from affectation and the apparent consciousness of beauty than (with one or two choice exceptions) I ever saw so pretty a woman. Those who are happy enough to be much with her may be often, I think, tempted to address her in the words of Racine:

Je ne trouve qu'en vous, je ne sais qu'elle grace,
Qui me charme toujours, et jamais ne me lasse.

It is, in truth, a face and a manner that one should never be weary of watching.

LETTER XXXV.

The Prater. Music. -Passion for Amusement.-Rareness of Intoxication. Contentment. France and England. - Austria and America. - Deficiency of Equipages in the Prater.- SkilMode of clearing the Streets. Number of

ful Driving. Carriages.

November 22nd, 1836.

TO-DAY we have made our third visit to the Prater, yet I suspect that I have omitted to tell you anything about it; which is the more sinful, because it is one of the few things in Vienna to which report has done justice, and the not offering my tribute of admiration to its beauty may be enough to lead you into the great blunder of doubting if all you have heard in its praise be true. Doubt no longer, then, if my testimony can content you, for as I have driven and walked, and driven again, through the whole of its wide extent, I am qualified to pass judgment, and I certainly believe that no city in the world has an area of such extent and beauty attached to it, devoted freely and without reserve to the use and enjoyment of the people.

This noble park possesses, in truth, every possible advantage to render it a source of enjoyment to all

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