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CHAPTER IV.

THINGVELLIR.

PAGE

The Plains of the Council—The Almanna-gjá— The Hill of Laws

History of Althing-Lava Broth-Icelandic Food-Butter-Curd
-Lichen-Sunday-The Burning of the Hostel: a Saga.

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CHAPTER V.

AMONG THE JÖKULLS.
Leave Thingvellir-Meyjar-skarth--- A lovely View—The Big Bed breaks

loose-Grettis-tak-A mysterious Vale -Attempts to re-discover
it - Ascent of Geitland's Jökull — Brunnir - Dearth of Fuel -
Kaldidalr-The Old Woman of Bones A Vale of Desolation-A
Tract of Ash-Kalmanstunga--Robbers.

86

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Eiriks Jökull— Taxation - The Sheep's Disease-A Swan's-nest—Lava

-Lose our Way - Camping out — Glorious Scene - Cooking
Arrangements—Rare Skua—Great Northern Diver-Storm on the
Heithi - Gunnarssonarvatn The Great Eagle Tarn-Desert-
Hólma-kvísl

:

99

CHAPTER VII.

THE VAMPIRE'S GRAVE.

Barren Wilderness-A Cairn—The Valley of Shadows: a Saga —A

magnificent Gorge-Waterfalls—The Vatnsdalr-Arrival at Grim-
stunga

115

.

CHAPTER VIII.

THE VALE OF WATERS.

Vatnsdalr—Forsæludalr--A dangerous Predicament - Thorolf wi' the

Dead-face --An ancient Fort - Colonization of Vatnsdalr-Hof-
The Story of Hrolleifr : a Saga-MSS.—Old Nick - Icelandic
Endearments-Music-Haukagil-Undirfell

133

.

CHAPTER IX.

FROM HNAUSIR TO EYJA FJORD.

PAGE

A Tract of Slag Cones-An Icelandic Doctor-Part from my Friends-

Giljá—Conversion of Iceland—Svínavatn—Icelandic Churches—A
miserable Lodging-Slang-Harlequin Duck-Ford the Blandá-
Vatnsskarth-Vithimyri-Purchase a Horse-Ford the Heradsvatn
-Miklibær-Oxnadals Heithi—Steinstathr—A Caravan-Strange
Merchandise- The Princess Alexandra-A Death .

155

CHAPTER X.

AKUREYRI.

À little Town—New Church-Site of the Town injudiciously chosen

- The Post-Grimsey-An Island Cure—Danish Hospitality—The
Newspaper Office Supper-English Vessels-Jack Tar in Iceland
— Trees—MSS.--- Icelandic Poetry—The Dream-Ballad

. 171

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CHAPTER XI.

UXAHVER.

A second Guide - Icelandic Horse-calls - A theological Candidate

Vathlaskarth-Wood in the Fnjoská-dale-Háls—Ljósavatn - The
Raven-Myth regarding it-Extent to which the Myth has spread
Góthafoss — Flowers Cross the Flood of Quivering Waves
Acquaintances-Lava Cracks-Grenjatharstathr-Uxahver - Boil-
ing Springs — The Wild Huntsman-Origin of the Myth-Myvatn. 184

CHAPTER XII.

A REGION OF FIRE.
Myvatn-Lava Streams—Reykjahlith-Sand Columns-A Plain of Boil-

ing Mud - Chaldrons-Krafla—Obsidian Mountain—A Ride over
a Desert-Eylifr-A wretched Farm-Dettifoss-A magnificent Fall
– Volcanic Cones—Return to Reykjahlith

205

CHAPTER XIII.

A SNOW PASS.

I hold a Leveo-My Plans upset—The Church of Thvers ---Taking French

Leave — Swimming across a River – MSS. Sagas—Jón's Bills-
Runaway Ponies-Rocky Spires - Perverseness of Grímr -A
Mountain Sel—A fearful Pass—Snowbridge- A desperate Scramble
-Stone Bog–Midnight on the Snow-A crumbling Snowbridge-
Arrival at Hólar-An alarming Proposal .

220

CHAPTER XIV.

HÓLAR.

PAGE

The Cathedral-Altar Vestments—Triptych-Portraits and Tombs

MSS.-The Ancient Possessions of the Church-Repairs—Flowers

-The Skagafjord—Drángey-Birds—Gannet-Puffin—Skua

235

CHAPTER XV.

The Outlaw's Isle : a Saga

246

CHAPTER XVI.

1

FROM SKAGAFJORD TO MITHFJORD.
Svathastathr-Heathen Charity-Church of Vithimyri-An odd Cow-

Borg, an old Castlo—Queen Victoria's Cousin—Icelandic Duck-
The long-tailed Duck-Red-necked Phalaropes—Deep Bogs—Melr
-A happy Meeting—A Wedding-Female Dress-Music-National
Anthem-Michaelmas Hymn-Mr. Briggs in Love-Church Service

-Sacred Music Ecclesiastical Position of the Icelandic Establish-
ment

278

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Glacial Action-Bjarg : the Home of Grettir — Cairn-Spear-head

Carved Stone—Magical Characters—The Story of the Banded-men:
A Saga.

297
CHAPTER XVIII.

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Leave Melr-Icelandic Etiquette-A beautiful Frith-Mr. Briggs's Story

– Thorodds-stathr-Row across the Fjord — Merchant Vessels—
Hospitality-Mr. Briggs recovers his Heart—Trouble with the Pack-
saddloHoltavörthu Heithi— Sclavonian Grebe-Arctic Foxes-
Icelandic Traditions concerning the Fox—Icelandic Mice-Tra-
vellers' Tales - Swans —Terns-Difficult Pass-Baula-MSS.-
Church of Hvammr

817

CHAPTER XIX.

THE VALE OF SMOKE.

Runaway Horses-Grjótháls—Glorious View-I succeed in Mastering the

Horses—Cruelty to Birds—The Future of Animals—Ptarmigan-
Whimbrel and Plover A Heithi—Icelandic Way of Sleeping —
Names—Tunguhver—Boiling Jets in a River-Reykholt-Snorro's
Bath-The Church-Snorro Sturlason

331

CHAPTER XX.

PAGB

ók.
Ascend the Side of Ók-Flowers—Strange Sight-Skogkottr—Meet old

Friends — The Skrimsl — Mermaids — Francesco de la Vega-
Smoking in the Tent

344

.

CHAPTER XXI.

GEYSIR.

Flowers - A natural Chimney - Extensive Plain — Laugarvatn - An

eccentric Bridgè-Uthlith-Sleeping in a Church-Position of the
Geysir District-Description of the Springs—The Little Geysir-
Jack in the Box-Boiling Wells—Strokr—Blue Ponds-Experi-
ments—Great Geysir—Keeping Watch-Magnificent Explosion-
Mr. Briggs misses seeing it-Theory of the Geysir

. 354

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CONCLUSION.
Leave Geysir-Last View of Heckla—The rumoured Eruption of Skapta

-Return to Thingvöllum-Latin Conversation - Seljadalr— The
Plague of Flies—Halt at a Farm—A fair Haymaker-The Spell
broken-Return to Reykjavík-Sale of Horses—Icelandic Ponies-
Their strong and weak Points—Leave Iceland—The Captain's Joke
- Reach England—Advice to Travellers.

. 385

APPENDICES.

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APPENDIX A.-Ornithology of Iceland, by A. Newton, Esq.

B.-Advice to Sportsmen, by J. W. R.
C.-List of Icelandic Plants
D.-List of Icelandic published Sagas
E.-Expenses of my Tour in Iceland

424

)

439 445

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PLATE

Map of Iceland.
I. Panorama of South Coast and Thingvalla
II. Almannagjá
III. Tindarskaggi
IV. Geitlands Jökull

V. Vatnsdalr from Undirfell
VI. Öxnadals-heithi .
VII. On Öxnadals-heithi
VIII. Akureyri
IX. Myvatn and Hverfjall

X. Hlitharfjall
XI. Hörgadalr
XII. Mælafellshnukr
XIII. Bjarg
XIV. Near Brunnir

XV. Kálfstindar
XVI. The Great Geysir

ÞAGE to face xix

6 67 86 88

133 frontispiece to face 166

171 205 208 228 279 297 345 855 862

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ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.
Sketch Map of Reykjavík
Plan and Elevation of a Farm
Nicolásagja
Great Northern Diver
Kitchen at Víthimyri
Mountains in Öxnadalr
Runic Stave at Grenjatharstathr
Uxahver: the Second Spring
Boiling Mud Chaldron, Námar-hlith
Dettifoss
Diagram of Triptych, Hólar
Skagafjord
Carved Stone in Mithfjord
Icelandic Magical Characters
Tunguhver
Runic Tombstone at Reykholt
The Skrimsl
Bird's-eye View of the Geysir District
Gyr-Falcon

27 59

69 . 109 . 163 . 167 · 194 · 197 . 211 · 217 . 287

246 299 299 340

343 · 346 . 358 . 398

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