Page images
PDF
EPUB
[ocr errors]

ΤΟ

MAJOR-GENERAL EDWARD SABINE, R.A.,

PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY.

MY DEAR UNCLE,

It is with great pleasure that I dedicate this book to you,

as a token of my gratitude for the kind interest you have taken, both in my expedition to Iceland, and in the progress of this volume.

I remain,

Ever yours sincerely,

SABINE BARING-GOULD.

Ísland far-sældar frón,

Ok hag-sældar hrím-hvíta móðir!

Hvar er þín fornaldar frægð,

Frelsið ok manndáðin bezt?

Iceland, thou fare-blessed spot,

Thou use-blessed rime-whitened mother!

Where are thine olden fame,

And freedom, and manliness best?

PREFACE

INTRODUCTION

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

COASTING.

First Sight of Iceland - Hjörleif's Head-Dyrhólar-The Westmann

Islands

-

Life of the Islanders - The Yankee's Story - My first
Saga: "The Red Rovers"-Cape Reykjanes-The Mealsack-
The Great Auk

CHAPTER II.
REYKJAVIK.

PAGE

xii

xix

1

Arrival-Description of Reykjavík-"A very Antient fish-like Smell!"—
The School-The Residence - The Cathedral - Thorwaldsen-
Icelandic Silverwork-The Merchant Stores-Mr. Briggs and the
Porters-Dinner-I visit the Rector-A would-be Suicide-The
Catholic Mission-The Origin of Iceland .

26

-

CHAPTER III.

MÓSFELL.

Leave Reykjavík-Rich Soil-Leiruvogr-Accidents-Camp out - A
lazy Guide Arctic Midnight - Rank Breakfast-The Story of
Sonartorrek-Alpine Road-Icelandic Dogs-A Farmhouse-Filth
-On the Heithi-Birds-Icelandic Indifference-Arrival at Thing-
völlum A Quarrel

48

CHAPTER IV.

THINGVELLIR.

The Plains of the Council-The Almanna-gjá-The Hill of Laws-
History of Althing-Lava Broth-Icelandic Food-Butter-Curd
-Lichen-Sunday-The Burning of the Hostel: a Saga.

PAGE

67

CHAPTER V.

AMONG THE JOKULLS.

Leave Thingvellir-Meyjar-skarth-A lovely View-The Big Bed breaks
loose-Grettis-tak-A mysterious Vale-Attempts to re-discover
it-Ascent of Geitland's Jökull-Brunnir - Dearth of Fuel-
Kaldidalr-The Old Woman of Bones-A Vale of Desolation-A
Tract of Ash-Kalmanstúnga-Robbers.

-

CHAPTER VI.

THE EAGLE TARNS.

Eiriks Jökull-Taxation The Sheep's Disease-A Swan's-nest-Lava
-Lose our Way - Camping out - Glorious Scene - Cooking
Arrangements-Rare Skua-Great Northern Diver-Storm on the
Gunnarssonarvatn -The Great Eagle Tarn-Desert-

-

Heithi
Hólma-kvísl

[ocr errors][merged small][merged small]

Barren Wilderness-A Cairn-The Valley of Shadows: a Saga-A
magnificent Gorge-Waterfalls-The Vatnsdalr-Arrival at Grím-
stúnga

CHAPTER VIII.

THE VALE OF WATERS.

-

Vatnsdalr-Forsæludalr-A dangerous Predicament - Thorolf wi' the
Dead-face-An ancient Fort- Colonization of Vatnsdalr-Hóf-
The Story of Hrolleifr : a Saga-MSS.-Old Nick Icelandic
Endearments-Music-Haukagil-Undirfell

[ocr errors]

86

99

115

[ocr errors]

133

CHAPTER IX.

FROM HNAUSIR TO EYJA FJORD.

A Tract of Slag Cones-An Icelandic Doctor-Part from my Friends-
Giljá-Conversion of Iceland-Svínavatn-Icelandic Churches-A
miserable Lodging-Slang-Harlequin Duck-Ford the Blandá-
Vatnsskarth-Vithimyri-Purchase a Horse-Ford the Heradsvatn
-Miklibor-Oxnadals Heithi-Steinstathr-A Caravan-Strange
Merchandise-The Princess Alexandra-A Death .

CHAPTER X.

AKUREYRI.

A little Town-New Church-Site of the Town injudiciously chosen
-The Post-Grimsey-An Island Cure-Danish Hospitality-The
Newspaper Office-Supper-English Vessels-Jack Tar in Iceland
-Trees-MSS.-Icelandic Poetry-The Dream-Ballad

[ocr errors]

CHAPTER XI.

UXAHVER.

-

[ocr errors]

PAGE

155

. 171

A second Guide - Icelandic Horse-calls- A theological Candidate
Vathlaskarth-Wood in the Fnjoská-dale-Háls-Ljósavatn-The
Raven-Myth regarding it-Extent to which the Myth has spread-
Góthafoss Flowers Cross the Flood of Quivering Waves
Acquaintances-Lava Cracks-Grenjatharstathr-Uxahver — Boil-
ing Springs-The Wild Huntsman-Origin of the Myth-Myvatn. 184

[ocr errors]

CHAPTER XII.

A REGION OF FIRE.

Myvatn-Lava Streams-Reykjahlith-Sand Columns-A Plain of Boil-
ing Mud-Chaldrons-Krafla-Obsidian Mountain-A Ride over
a Desert-Eylifr-A wretched Farm-Dettifoss-A magnificent Fall
-Volcanic Cones-Return to Reykjahlith
. 205

[ocr errors]

CHAPTER XIII.

A SNOW PASS.

I hold a Levee-My Plans upset-The Church of Thverá-Taking French
Leave Swimming across a River - MSS. Sagas-Jón's Bills—
Runaway Ponies-Rocky Spires-Perverseness of Grímr-A
Mountain Sel-A fearful Pass-Snowbridge-A desperate Scramble
-Stone Bog-Midnight on the Snow-A crumbling Snowbridge-
Arrival at Hólar-An alarming Proposal.

. 220

« PreviousContinue »