But without a passport there was no admittance into Genoa. Without "the witness of the Spirit" to our adoption, Rom. viii. 15, 16, and that holiness without which no man shall see the Lord, there can be no admission into the circle of the heavenly family. Our passports were approved, and we took up our lodgings in a large and comfortable hotel. * * * Our captain has just informed us that we may have twenty-four hours ashore. This privilege we value highly, as it will afford us a good opportunity to see the city. To-morrow morning we intend to be stirring betimes; the results of our perambulations I shall give you in another letter. Affectionately in Jesus, LETTER XXXV. J. C. MY DEAR SIR, TO THE SAME. Genoa, September, 1844. WE spent last evening very comfortably at our hotel; after wearying ourselves in writing, we enjoyed an excellent night's rest. This morning we procured a" guide," and set out on a visit to churches, palaces, &c. I have a "large heap of notes" before me," the fruits of the day's observations," but unless they are improved somewhat in the copying, I fear they will afford you little pleasure. As I have no intention that my letters should serve you instead of a regular hand-book," which you may purchase at any bookshop, I can avoid "dryness of detail" the more easily. In the first place" I may premise, it has been an extremely warm day, quite equal to the hottest day of an American summer; but a Frenchman has well observed, that Genoa seems as if only built for summer; a sentiment we could well appreciate, as the narrow streets and high houses have afforded us, during our day's wanderings, an agreeable shade from the rays of a burning sun. The streets, so ravine-like, with "stripes of blue sky between," are lined with lofty palaces, many entirely of marble, but most, I imagine, are only faced with stucco, in imitation of that material; but marble portals, porticos, and columns, lend their aid to impart to them all the grandeur of which they are capable. The Genoese taste for the art of painting appears to be exuberant. It is not enough that the interiors of their mansions are decorated with paintings, the exteriors of many are also brilliant with paintings in fresco, representing scenes in history, mythology, family scenes, and architectural views, forming what are called, "a sort of street gallery,” where even the beggars may amuse themselves, and cultivate a taste for the fine arts while enjoying their favourite lounge in the streets. These frescos, which show considerable talent, and have cost the artists much "time and pains-taking," have cost, it is said, the proprietors next to nothing; they are usually done by young Italian or foreign painters, chiefly for the exhibition of their talents, and for the purpose of bringing themselves into notice. Some of these productions have stood the test of centuries, and still retain a freshness of colouring that is surprising. This, doubtless, is owing principally to what one has termed, "the splendour of the clime, which spares everything but man." The climate which preserves them is also favourable for their exhibition; here," where the sun, earth, sea, and sky, make almost perpetual holiday," such architectural decorations seem to " harmonize well with the general festivity of the elements,” a region— "Where no perpetual drizzle drives or soaks; 66 Some have been offended at the gaiety of these streetpaintings, as being inconsistent with real grandeur; perhaps there is considerable truth in the remark; and I remember a writer who says, "Nothing can be grand in architecture that bears a perishable look;" still, notwithstanding all that may be said in favour of the naked majesty of architecture, one cannot help being pleased with these efforts of the arts to please the fancy, and instruct the mind. Besides, however such exhibitions may affect others, to me such cheerful and benevolent designs," intended, it would appear, to entertain and please the passer-by, indicated an amiability of disposition, on the part of the family within, which would have ensured us, though strangers, a generous welcome, could we but have "conversed comfortably" in their language. Such paintings, and I do not remember to have seen any that were unseemly or indecent, were more agreeable to me than long ranges of brick and mortar," and " smoky withal;" and then there are no carriages to endanger life and limb in case of " pictorial fascination;" although there might be some peril from the deceptions peculiar to perspective painting. I have read of a dog that was deceived to such a degree, by certain steps in a perspective of Danto's, that, expecting to find a free passage, he made up to them in full speed, and dashed out his brains. It is Pliny, I believe, who assures us, that the walls of a certain theatre represented a roof covered with tiles, and finished in such a masterly manner, that rooks frequently attempted to light upon it. The principles of perspective must have been well understood at that early age to have deceived birds so famous for their sagacity. Not one carriage have we seen this day; nor were the streets noisy or thronged. The companies of ladies we met, glided past us as gently as though they were walking in a drawing room; and gracefully too, as if in imitation of the noble figures upon the walls of the houses. Each wore a pretty snow-white piece of lace or muslin, a kind of shawl which they call a mezero, neatly disposed over the head and shoulders, which seems to be a universal dress among all ranks of the Genoese ladies. There is taste, simplicity, and even philosophy, in this article of dress. White, of all colours, is the best for hot weather, as it absorbs the rays of the sun least. But were it not for the shade afforded by the streets, perseverance in such simplicity would endanger, what few of the daughters of Eve are ever careless to preserve, and which these fair Italians appear sufficiently conscious that they possess, beauty. We have visited all the churches of note in Genoa, all Romish, of course. For a list of them you would not thank me; a general impression is all you want; nor am I disposed to send you more. Their exteriors are plain and pretensionless; their interiors, all ornament and glare," splendid as marble, gilding, and painting can make them." They seem, indeed, designed to take one by surprise ;-without,-unadorned by a single architectural beauty;-within,-magnificent, rich in frescoed ceilings, in columns of porphyry, and floors incrusted with marbles," foreign marbles, wrought with cunning hands," and decked with brilliant paintings. And are all these things to be forever under the domination of popery? Shall that corrupt system, with its symbols, "baby-rags and dolls," to which "the faithful" in Babylon are commanded to bow down, be perpetuated to disgust and sicken the heart of the scriptural and enlightened visiter? No! so sure as there is truth in the New Testament, where its woes are denounced, and its fate declared, I shall, upon earth or in heaven, live to see its final and eternal overthrow. From the battlements of heaven I may behold that mighty angel descending from God, (Rev. xviii.,) clothed with a power and a glory that shall illumine our globe, and hear his voice proclaiming: " Babylon the great is fallen; for strong is the Lord God who judgeth her. Rejoice over her thou heaven, and ye holy apostles and prophets; for God hath avenged you on her." Amen! Hasten that period, thou God of truth and righteousness! Genoa is a city of palaces, "fit for a congress of kings." Of the fifty remarkable buildings, which might be mentioned, we visited only a few; the royal palace, perhaps the most beautiful in Genoa; the ducal palace, formerly the residence of the doges, now occupied by the senate. I was about to name more, but checked by the remembrance of "general impressions," my notes must go to the winds. In general they are as resplendent as variegated marbles, sculpture, statuary, and paintings, can make them. We admired some splendid mosaics, which presented a wide surface, plain and pictorial, the work of "cunning men,"-marbles from all parts of the world, laid together in small curious pieces, smooth as ivory, and brilliant as gems and precious stones. The floors have the appearance of variegated marble; a sort of composition, marbles of different colours, pounded and bedded in cement, and polished to the smoothness of marble. It deceived us at first. I shall say nothing of the furniture; sculpture and painting reduced this into insignificance. They are rich in the masterpieces of the pictorial art. Hundreds of the finest paintings have we seen this day. To my friend, Mr. Hudson, they were more interesting than to me, as he could view them with the eye, taste, judgment, of an artist. For my part I am no critic, and therefore have little temptation to criticism; but I know when I am |