city a conqueror, and menaced it with utter destruction. Alarmed at the danger, the citizens dressed four thousand little children in sackcloth, and placing them in the grand piazza or square through which his Majesty was to pass, instructed them to cry out as he approached, "Miserecordia e pieta! Pietà e miserecordia!" which had such an effect upon the indignant but yet sympathising sovereign, that he relinquished his threatening resolutions, and treated the city mildly.

BEFORE leaving Genoa, we were joined by four passengers, two young ladies and two gentlemen (one of whom was uncle to the ladies), who were proceeding to the Crimea ; an addition to our society which could not fail to increase the pleasures, and relieve the tedium of the voyage..

A SHORT sail brought us to Leghorn, one of the finest ports of Italy. A well built broad street, and a large square, form all that is most remarkable in the appearance of the city; which is of considerable extent, built with regularity, and may be looked upon, from the variety of its inhabitants, as an epitome of the commercial world. Turks, Jews, and Christians, forgetting their mutual prejudices, upon the Exchange tolerate each other with apparent testimonies of regard, and seem to be actuated by no other spirit than that of commerce. The principal articles of trade consist of silks, coffee, cotton, essences, straw-hats, wine, and

oil; the exportation of which was very considerable, and in a manner engrossed by the English and Jews. Of the latter, it was computed that no fewer than ten thousand resided in a part of the city appropriated to them, where they had a handsome synagogue; and where, added to the reputation of immense riches, many amongst them were celebrated for munificence and respectability.

BESIDES Other particular privileges, the English were permitted the exercise of religious worship according to the established church of England; and at the consul's house was a neat chapel, attended with regularity by the merchants' families.

FEW specimens of the fine arts are to be found in Leghorn; and I believe the only public statue deserving remark is that of Ferdinand the First, situated opposite the arsenal in the inner harbour. The duke is represented larger than life, standing upon a square pedestal; at each angle of which is the figure of a. Turkish slave in chains, so artfully disposed that, at one particular point of view, the four noses may be distinguished. The whole is the workmanship of Pietro Tacca, and in brass.

THE opera-house is large and convenient; but the want of light throws a gloom over it, which never fails of meeting with the disapprobation of those who are not accustomed to conti

nental theatres. There are generally, however, some good performers; and the charms of Italian music and Italian singing compensate for the disappointment of not being able, for a few hours, to distinguish the beauty of the Tuscan ladies: He must be strangely insensible to music who cannot suspend his curiosity during the performance of any one of Pergolese's, Cimarosa's, or Paisiello's operas.

THE Coffeehouses in the principal street are ornamented with large glasses and tables of finely polished marble. Ladies are accustomed to enter them as well as gentlemen; and indeed all the coffeehouses in Italy are upon a different footing from those of either England or France. Ice, lemonades, and similar refreshments, are most generally demanded in these elegant and fashionable saloons; and for the more substantial supplies of dinner, or the chearing support of the flask, the sons of conviviality must repair to the albergo or inn.

FROM Leghorn I went on board a common passage-boat, up the river Arno to Pisa; and was not a little amused by the variety of company I met with. The flippancy of a smart country. girl excited the attention of a humorous musician, whose wit and hilarity tempered the severity of his observations, and made the lass so far forget she had been the object of his satire, that, before the end of our journey, she had consented di mangiar' un

pezzo, e di far viaggio insieme * We had minor traders, who laughingly told their expected profits on the merchandize contained in their baskets; servants who, with equal satisfaction, and as little restraint, detailed the private concerns of the noble families whose liveries they wore; and mendicant friars, who exercised the functions of their order, by participating in every little store of their provident companions.

As we proceeded against the stream our boat was dragged slowly along by horses; and six hours had expired before we found ourselves comfortably lodged at an inn about sixteen miles from Leghorn. The Arno running through a most enchanting. plain, divides the well built city of Pisa; the spacious streets and stately buildings of which proclaim its former celebrity..

THE Cathedral of St Mary, placed in the centre of a large. square, is a magnificent building, adorned with seventy-six variously colored marble pillars of great beauty. There are also two at the entrance of most exquisite workmanship, said to have been brought from the temple of Diana at Ephesus. The brazen gates, upon which are represented in relief several passages from the Holy Scriptures, are wonderful specimens of the talents of John of Bologna; and have, as well as the Mosaic

*To make a hasty meal, and travel together..

flooring of the choir, been justly admired by every visitor who has examined them.

To the north of St Mary's Church the Campo Santo, reported to be covered with earth brought from the Holy Land, is surrounded by a broad corridor, the walls of which are painted by Giotto, Cimabue, Andrea Orgagna, and other eminent artists of their time. Six historical pieces from the book of Job are particularly attributed to the pencil of Giotto; and a Last Judgement to that of Orgagna; in which he is said to have represented the portraits of his friends in paradise, and those of his enemies in the infernal regions.

THERE were formerly several colleges here; but the one distinguished by the title of Sapienza is now the most considerable, and that in which the professors still read their public lectures. In a small cabinet of natural history I observed an Egyptian mummy, with two left arms and hands; many very curious petrifactions; and a finely preserved human skull, through which, by means of an accidental perforation of the parietal bone, a large branch of coral had grown.

THE leaning tower, which has excited so much surprise, and formed a subject for many fanciful opinions, is by no means so great a curiosity as it is supposed. There are in Europe