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Return to Rome.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

RETURN TO ROME CARNIVAL-HORSE RACE-CANDLESEXCURSION TO TIVOLI-PONTE MAMMOLO-SOLFATERRAALBULEAN LAKE-TEMPLE OF FAUNUS-PLAUTIAN TOMB— ADRIAN'S VILLA-CATARACT OF TIVOLI-TEMPLE OF VESTA ANCIENT VILLAS, AND HORACE'S FARM-CASCATELLE— CANOVA'S PIETA-ROMAN PEARLS, CAMEOS, MOSAICS-EX◄ CURSION TO FRASCATI-PORTA ASINARIA-AQUEDUCTS— HISTORY OF TUSCULUM-RELICS, AND VICINITY—CICEROLUCIEN BONAPARTE, AND BANDITTI-VILLA ALDOBRANDINI AND WATER-WORKS-LAKE REGILLUS, AND CASTOR AND POLLUX-GROTTO FERRATA-DOMENICHINO'S FRESCOES— ALBAN LAKE, AND EMISSARIUS—ALBANO—NEMI, CLASSIC NEIGHBOURHOOD.

AND

RETURNED to Rome at day-break on Sunday last, by dint of travelling incessantly from the preceding Friday night. Our conveyance this time was by the Government Courier, which if it be not the pleasantest, is perhaps the safest, as well as the dearest, it having cost me above 300 Carlini, or nearly six pounds English, to make a journey of not much more than 100 miles. The general terror of the brigands now infesting the road increases, and three several attacks have been made during my short stay at Naples; in which, it is said, that robbery has been aggravated by outrage, and violence, both to men, and women. Our escort consisted of two, occasionally three armed dragoons. Our route being the same as on our

former journey, has already been described: one recollection, however, struck me as not before alluded to; Horace's journey from Rome to Brundusium,* and which occupied him fifteen days; his description of the Via Appia, with some other places which we like him had traversed; and all which the poet humorously details in his fifth satire.

'Instead of the awful, silent, grandeur of Rome, usually so striking to a traveller just returned from the bustle of Naples, solemn Rome seems, at this moment, turned frolic mad to enjoy the brief remainder of the Carnival, and which precedes so, long a penance. But I must first observe that this popular festival is invariably immediately preceded by a public execution; a criminal being always reserved for this special occasion; and the guillotine being the ordinary mode of death. I did not arrive in time to witness this spectacle, but my friends here adequately described it to me.

There is perhaps, more noise in the Carnival of Naples, more splendor at Rome; particularly in seeing the entire range of the Corso, a street a mile long, hung at almost every balcony, and window, with tapestry, damask, and silk. The gravity generally prevailing, is now thoroughly thrown off; all ranks-seem proportionately exhila

A maritime town of Naples on the shores of the Adriatic, ́and where the Appian Road terminated.

rated, and all distinctions levelled during this little, fleeting, season of popular diversion; this relic of the Roman Saturnalia. Some restraints, however, are imposed; since all classes are forbidden to assume any dress, or character, appertaining to religion, or government.

Yesterday was the last, and consequently the best day. Among the drollest of the equipages was a car fantastically draped, wherein was Hecate, the Furies, and Witches upon broomsticks; another was decorated with boughs, and foliage; cages of screeching crows were hung up in it, and it was filled by the vilest musicians, with the harshest instruments, pretending a fine concert, singing humorously to please the populace, then applauding themselves, and calling vehemently, according to Italian custom, for "Il Maestro, Il Maestro ; another car was filled with cats; followed by one with dogs; that is, people thus masked.

Among the drollest of the pedestrians are the men in women's clothes, their whiskers, beard, and mustachios mingling with ladies curls, love locks, caps, ribbons, plumes, and petticoats. It is really humourous to see some of these fellows mimicking a mincing gait, a Paris poke, and all a lady's ogling, simpering, pretty smiles, and winning ways. In some, the disguise is purposely as plain as possible; in others, it is too well concealed; and assignations are made which certain folks may be so credulous as to keep.

The grandees parade in disguise in their carriages, while their coachmen on the box, as mimic ladies maids, sport veil, or fan, and show their silken hose, and tapering calf, to please the gaping crowd.

Thus go carriages, people, characters, masks, dominos, all pell-mell, hurly-burly, and sugarplum* pelting each other; rich and poor, all confounded, and mixed up together, the foot paths choked up by chairs, and their occupiers; servants and masters, maids and men, familiar with they know not who.. Masks are privileged to accost any one; they may get into a carriage, or enter a box at the theatre; they may offer or take confetture, and wit, and manners only or the want of it, can betray the character, and tell us who it

is.

Now, as at Naples, the storm of plums, and comfits, rains and rattles all around; above, below, in front, in rear,

Dark showers of comfits fly from foes to foes,
Now here, now there, the tide of combat flows,
Thus white with dust the mimic masks appear,

From chalk, and plums, and old woman charioteer;
The dusky clouds from labour'd earth arise,

And roll in smoking volumes to the skies.

Pope's Iliad, b. v. and vi.

* Many of these should be sugar plums however are simply the pozzolana sand cemented and plaistered with chalk; and they are accordingly called, and sold as, confetture di gesso.

when, on a sudden, a distant cannon thundering on the ear, bids prepare for other fun, and the carriages begin to quit the Corso;-a second thunder, at an interval of a quarter of an hour, must find the central passage clear; a troop of heavy cavalry march slowly down the street, and the pedestrians form in closer line; again the cavalry appear, and trot down; the infantry now make the passage quite clear, the people wedge in behind, and the cavalry, for the last time, charge at full gallop down the entire Corso, while every eye is strained to see the approaching Horse Race.

Unlike an English course, these animals obey no riders, nor know no jockeyship; they are free, and left to themselves, only having little spurs, and stimulants attached, which as the faster they run, so the more do these prick, and urge yet greater speed. They passed me with such tremendous celerity that I could hardly form any opinion about them, particularly as I was in mask, but I understood that an English mare had won the race.

Though the animals are certainly stung to the course by these devices of man, yet, in seeing them thus at liberty, I had hoped the creatures tore along the smoking course animated, more than their owners, with a free, and passionate desire to pass each other, and outstrip the winds; but such a sight will never again please me, for I