remnant of the house of Clodius, perhaps the very spot where he fell when pursued by the assassins of Milo: the remains of Domitian's Villa, and Nymphæum of the Prætorian Camp: of the Temple of Jupiter Latialis: and of Alba Longa, that city founded by Ascanius, son of Æneas, 1152 years before Christ.

At Nemi too was that Lake so tranquil, and so clear, as to be called Diana's looking glass: Speculum Diana (Virgil). Near to here were her sacred groves, and the Artemisian Festivals; her priest styled Rex Nemorensis, and the dreadful tenure by which he held his place; that of murdering his predecessor, and of keeping his post till he himself was murdered; to guard against which these priests were always seen with a drawn sword. Here was Trajan's aquatic palace; and a Fountain of Egeria; and here were the woods where Diana restored to life her beloved Hippolytus.*

* Some of this scenery is more detailed in the account of the journey from Rome to Naples.

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Roman Society.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

BRIEF REVIEW OF ROMAN SOCIETY, AND LITERATURE-FEMALE CHARACTER CAVALIERI SERVENTI-MARRIAGEVILLA ALBANI-CASINO OF RAPHAEL-FUNERALS-BLESSING OF ANIMALS-TAKING THE VEIL-CONVENTS, AND MONASTERIES-MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS-TEMPLE OF MINERVA MEDICA-CHURCH OF JESUS-THE SEVEN HILLS PALATINE ROMULUS-ETYMOLOGY -PALILIA-TEM PLES-PALACES-THE CAPITOLINE-TEMPLES OF JOVESPOLIA OPIMA-SATURN-ETYMOLOGY-MANLIUS CAPITOLINUS-OTHER TEMPLES, &c.-THE ESQUILINE-SERVIUS TULLIUS, AND TULLIA—THE QUIRINAL-ANTIQUE HORSES -FORMER TEMPLES-THE CŒLIAN-TEMPLES-CHURCHES OF SA. MARIA NAVICELLA, AND SAN STEFANO ROTONDO—

THE VIMINAL-THE AVENTINE-ANCUS MARTIUS-REMUS, AND AUGURY—ELICIAN JOVE—HERCULES, AND CACUS -CAIUS GRACCHUS-SEPTIMONTIUM-ROMAN FORUM-SABINE WOMEN-VIRGINIA AND APPIUS CLAUDIUS-FICUS RUMINALIS-CHURCH OF ST. THEODORE-TEMPLE OF CASTOR AND POLLUX-VIA SACRA-FORUMS OF CESAR AND AUGUSTUS-ACADEMY OF ST. LUKE-RAPHAEL-VARIOUS TEMPLES-TEMPLE OF ANTONINUS AND FAUSTINA-VESTAL VIRGINS-HORATII AND CURIATII-FILIAL PIETY-OTHER

TEMPLES-SLAVES-THE TIBER.

CIRCUMSTANCES which I cannot control, compel me now, reluctantly, to leave Rome. Much, very much more might be said of antiquity, of art, of ancient deeds and recollections; of modern modes and appropriations, yet though prevented from entering into any detailed and critical account of these matters alluded to, still undescribed, let me,

Modern Manners.

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at least, give a parting sketch of what may be deemed worthy the research of others, or of my own deeper investigation if I e'er return.

In any attempt to delineate the state of society, and modern manners of Rome, I shall be brief, and circumspect.

To the modes, and principles of my own country, amid all that I have seen, I ever revert with fond preference; but this springs not, I would hope, from any narrow bigotry of mind; and still less do I incline to pass censure upon society where my associations have been so fleeting, or upon systems the depth of which I have had so little comparative leisure to develope.

In extenuation of the apathy, the indolence, and the rust of mind, so apparent throughout all the ranks of Rome, the clergy excepted, may be remembered the long oppressions, the annihilation of political importance, and the total absence of any stimulus to rouse the slumbering energies of the modern Romans. The absolute ignorance of some even of the highest classes cannot be extenuated; reason would suggest that the want of political importance might be somewhat compensated by literary competition, and eminence; but experience proclaims that national freedom and greatness is ever accompanied with mental energy: when the one is oppressed, so does the other languish.

Rank, and family honours unsullied by less noble alliances, and unstained by plebeian commerce, are the envied desiderati. The Church and the Army, only, are fitting for such high born, and their sons; the first is, indeed, overstocked: and, for the second, who now would tremble at a Roman Army?

The nature of the papal government and the endless religious observances it enforces, is another incalculable drawback upon the exertion of faculty, and talent. Independently of the fifty-two Sundays in the year, there are about seventy Festas, or Saints' days, or Holidays at Rome, on which occasions shops, schools, and occupations are commonly suspended; and mass, and idleness, or sauntering, and lounging about are almost the sole pursuit.

Yet though Rome may now languish in art, as in spirit, it cannot be forgotten how splendid was the no very distant age of Leo X.; the government was then aroused, genius then was fostered, and the glories of that era are still the theme of the historian, the admiration of the scientific.

Moreover Rome ever has attracted, and ever will attract the learned of every region; and it is no little recommendation to be sure here to meet with the eminent of every art, and almost of every country. In literature also the present Roman ladies may justly boast of their predecessors, since

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the professorship of many a profound art, and science, has been ably and honourably filled by them; while at this day there are many amiable Italian females solely devoted to literary attain

ments.

Now to speak of that striking feature in female Italian character so extraordinary, so repulsive to an English maid or wife: the almost total disregard of matrimonial fidelity. Few Italian wives omit to select that attentive, regular-serving, constant companion termed a Cavaliere Servente. It is not with their husband but with this object that they are constantly associated, and by whom they are constantly escorted; of him they exact every important, and every minute attention; and without such an admirer an Italian belle may run the hazard of that greatest of all mortifications to every belle, that of not possessing sufficient charms to attract a Cavaliere.

I am well aware that it is often contested that such a connexion is not always criminal, and who would not hope so? but how does it grate upon the ear to be forced by appearances to make such a declaration; and how does it offend an English eye, and English feelings, to witness a wife from universal habit, and system, secking a confidant, a friend, an inseparable, in any ether than her husband? Such however is the mode, and perhaps more surprise is excited that man and wife should