telligent. He says there are 1500 houses in Kene, of which 150 are Coptic. They have no church or priest, but go to church at Goos, three or four hours off, where are also many Copts.

"A mallem who teaches a school of thirty boys came in. To him we gave five copies of Genesis, to be given as premiums to such of his pupils as should make most rapid progress in their studies. Iscarus, a learned mallem, also called on us; and afterward accompanied us to our boat. He knows Turkish, Arabic, and Coptic. In the course of four hours we sold thirty-one books, and gave away seven, beside Tracts.

"Great numbers of Mussulman pilgrims_pass through this place, on their way to Mecca. Their defiling influence on the people is very manifest. We have no where seen so many Mussulman women unveiled, or so bold and shameless as here. place seems a perfect brothel.

The

"We left Kene, about one P. M., and in an hour after, moored on the west bank opposite the temple of Denderah, the Tentiva of the Romans. The modern village is near the Nile; the temple a half hour's ride from it. We found this temple in a better state of preservation than any we had seen.

"It was from this temple that a Frenchman, about three years since, took away the Zodiac, which has excited so much interest among the learned. The walls, as usual, are covered with hieroglyphics, the mystical characters of the ancient Egyptians. Could we read these characters, we should no doubt derive much information about the ancient history, mythology, and customs of the country. Whether this knowledge will ever be attained, remains to be seen. Efforts are making, and hopes of success are cherished. We returned to our boat at five o'clock, and floated down the Nile till late in the evening; when we moored for the night.

7. The wind very strong against us, so as almost completely to counteract the course of the current. This enabled us easily to believe what before seemed improbable, that a north wind blowing when the Nile overflows, has a powerful effect to increase the inundations, and keep the water longer on the land. Toward evening we arrived at Dishne, a small village on the east. Here one man told us there are forty, another said thirty Coptic houses; and probably about as many Mussulmans. We saw a number of Copts, only three of whom could read; and those three all purchased books. They have neither a church, nor a priest in the village. Left Dishne about sun-set, and floated down the current during most of the night.

"8. At half past twelve we passed Haon, on the west, and a little below it we moored, the wind being contrary and very violent. Below us was a large boat, which had a cargo of negro slaves, carrying them down to Cairo; a sight, which could not fail to excite the most painful emotions in our breasts. A little before three P. M. we left our boat and walked to Bageoura, an inland town. Here are several learned mallems, a roumus, several priests, a church and nunnery with two or three nuns. We have seldom heard of a nunnery among the Copts. There is usually a convent connected with every church, but it is the dwelling of the priests, whether married or unmarried. Many of the priests are married, and we are told the people are best pleased when this is the case.

"10. We awoke in sight of the high minarets of Girge. Went first to pay our respects to the bishop, and were conducted to his house through a narrow dark avenue. He was asleep, but the roumus received us very kindly. The apartments were entirely without furniture, except a mat of reeds spread on the floor, on which we sat; but they were cleaner than the rooms, in which we have usually been re

ceived by the Coptic clergy. After waiting a while, the bishop awoke, and we were invited into his presence. He was in feeble health, as might be expected from his age, which is ninety years. For thirty one years he has been bishop of this diocese. The roumus told us, that there were in Egypt twelve bishoprics, two east of the Nile, and ten west of it. The whole number of Coptic priests we estimated at two hundred and thirty, or two hundred and forty, but others, we presume with good reason, set it much higher. The reason he assigns, why the number of bishoprics is so small, is the poverty and tribulation which the Christians are now in. They are indeed in bondage. We dined with the roumus on boiled eggs, bread, and honey."

Mr. F. and his companion went ashore on the 12th and ascended a mountain, for the purpose of surveying a grotto. It is described as having been excavated in a solid rock, and still showing marks of the chisel. There were two doors fifteen feet wide and eighteen or twenty feet high. The apartment was about a hundred feet by seventy-five feet. In front of the doors on the inside two large columns were standing, which were attached to the original rock, and inscribed with hieroglyphics. The mountain over the grotto was solid rock rising a hundred feet nearly perpendicular.

"Sitting down in one of the windows, we cast our eyes over one of the most enchanting scenes in nature. From an elevation of two hundred feet, we looked down on the Nile meandering through the plains that are enriched and fertilized by its waters; while these plains present to the eye a variety and richness of vegetation seldom seen. Flocks were grazing in every direction; numerous small villages, surrounded by groves of palm trees, increased the variety and beauty of the scenery; while, on the opposite side of the river, rose the barren hills that skirt the Lybian desert. It would have been a de

lightful scene for a landscape painter. It would have been a romantic spot for a sentimental poet. And surely a hermit, if truly pious, might in this cell contemplate the works of God with no ordinary degree of tranquillity and peace.

"13. At five P. M. arrived at Abutig. The Copts: have a school for boys. We inquired if there was not one for girls likewise. They said, 'No.' We then asked whether any of the women could read. As if surprised at such strange questions, they again answered, 'No.' 'Is there not one in town who can read?' 'No, not half an one,' was the reply.

"20. About nine A. M. we passed the convent of Miriam, (Mary,) situated at the top of rocks apparently inaccessible, on the east bank. As we passed, we saw a man swimming toward our boat. He was from the convent, and came to ask alms. We gave him something. He told us there were ten monks in the convent. One of them was in sight on the top of the rugged rocks. When the man left us, we watched to see how he ascended to his habitation; but we lost sight of him behind a rock, as soon as he reached the shore. It is impossible to discover any passage. In the evening we passed a village on the east called Sheraoune, where our rais says there are many Copts. The Arabs told us, that the Mussulmans have both monasteries and nunneries, and that in the Faioun, a province in the west of Egypt, there is a nunnery, in which are forty nuns.

"Between Cairo and Minie, are several convents and villages, at which we intended to stop on our return; but having distributed all our books, and being in haste, we passed by them all. We hoped, also, to find it convenient to visit the pyramids of Saccara, and the site of ancient Memphis which is near them. But this too we were obliged to relinquish."

Sabbath the 23d was a day of great anxiety to the missionaries. They had heard reports that a

general massacre of Europeans had been commenced by the Turks. They had been apprised of the fact, that complaints against them had been brought to the pasha, in consequence of their discussing religious subjects with Mussulmans. Fears too were entertained that the plague was raging at Cairo, where they must land. They trembled to approach the shore, lest they should find themselves exposed to the sword or to the pestilence, or both. Coming to anchor in this fearful suspense, they sent a messenger to Mr. Salt, to obtain information respecting the state of the city. In the mean time they made their prayer to God, and waited for intelligence, from which they might learn what their real situation was. At 3 o'clock P. M. a note was received from Mr. Salt, bringing the joyful tidings, that all was safe and tranquil on shore, and that they might land without fear, as soon as convenient.

"24. Took lodgings at the house where we were before, and where travellers usually lodge. In our journey to Thebes we were absent from Cairo fortysix days, and the expenses amounted, altogether to about thirty dollars each. We sold in Arabic, two hundred and eleven Testaments, and one hundred and twenty-seven copies of Genesis, and, seven Psalters; and gave away ten Testaments, forty-five copies of Genesis, and one Psalter. In other languages we have sold four, and given away five Testaments and Bibles. We also distributed two hundred and fifty Tracts.

"During the journey, we were both attacked with a fever, though at different times. Through the kindness of our Heavenly Father, we both recovered after an illness of only four or five days. When in ill health among strangers, and with bad accommodations, the mind begins to turn back to the friends we have left afar off. With a mattress spread on the cabin floor, no chair but a box of books, none of the little comforts which mothers and sisters