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INTRODUCTION.-GREECE AND EGYPT.
Pages 1-48.
Original plan of the journey; arrangement with Rev. Eli Smith, 1.
His qualifications, 1, 2.-Departure from New-York, 2. England and
Germany; early winter, 2, 3. Trieste, steamers, embarcation, 3, 4.
Ancona, the Adriatic, Corfu, 5, 6. Theaki or Ithaca, 6. Patras, 7.
Coast of Maina, 7, 8. Approach to Attica, 8.
GREECE. The Piraeus, 8.-Athens, 9. Acropolis and Areopagus, 10.
Paul's preaching, 11. The Pnyx and Demosthenes, 12. The Academy,
Hymettus and its honey, 13. Sunrise at the Parthenon, 14. Character
of the Greek people, 15.-Correspondence with Mr. Smith, 15, 16. Syra,
16, 17. Crete, Canéa, 17, 18. Approach to Alexandria, 19.
EGYPT. Escape from quarantine, 19, 20. Landing, motley crowd,
20. Lodgings, 21. Ancient city, 21, 22. Column of Diocletian, 22.
Mode of travelling, 22, 23. The canal and boats, 23, 24. The Nile and
its waters, 24. Voyage, 24, 25. Lodgings at Cairo, difficulties, 25.
Habib Effendi and his audience, 26. Arab procrastination, 27. Voyage
up the Nile, its characteristics, 27, 28. To Thebes, 28. Thebes, 29, 30.
Her architecture, 30. Tombs of the kings, 31. Sculptures, e. g. Shishak,
32. Climate, 33. Return to Cairo, 34. The city, 34, 35. Roda, Old
Cairo, 35. Heliopolis, 36. Mounds of the Jews, 37. Pyramids of Gi-
zeh, 37-39. Sakkara, mummy-pits, 39. Memphis, its mounds, 40.—Mu- ·
hammed 'Aly, 40. His conscriptions, 41. Forced civilization, 41, 42.
The people made slaves, as of old by Pharaoh, 42, 43. Safety in travel-
ling, 43. Imitated by the Sultan, 44. Important changes to be expect-
ed in the East, 45.
Long cherished purpose of the journey, 46. Instruments, 47. Jour.
nals, 47. Books and Maps, 48.
Preparations, 49. Tent and beds, 49. Provisions, 50. Servants, 50.
Arms, 51. Costume, 51. Firmân, 51, 52. Camels, 52. Contract, curi-
ous mode of sealing, 52, 53. Distinction of Camel and Dromedary, 53.
Routes to Suez, 53.—March 12th. Departure from Cairo, 54, 55. Kâid
Beg, 55. Petrified wood, 55. Wadys, what, 56. The Arabs happy in
the desert, 56. Encampment 56.-March 13th. The desert and petri-
fied wood, 57. Many Wadys, 57, 58. Camels, their habits and fodder,
Character of the desert, 58. Black locusts, 59.-March 14th. Haj-
route, Wady Hufeiry, 59, 60. 'Abeithirân, a plant, 60. Jebel 'Aweibid,
60. The mirage, 61. Our guide Beshârah and others, 61, 62. Their
mode of sleeping, 62.—March 15th. The desert and Jebel 'Atâkah, 62,
63. Pasha's post, 63. Pass el-Muntŭla' formerly unsafe, 63, 64. View
near 'Ajrûd, 64, 65. 'Ajrûd, 65. Bîr Suweis, 66. Suez, 66-69. Tell
Kolzum, 69. Gulf of Suez, 69. Shoals, 70. Desert plain back of Suez,
70, 71. Filling up of the end of the Gulf, 71. Tides and ford, 72.
Roads from the Nile to Suez, 73. Shortest route by the ancient canal,
73, 74.
EXODUS OF THE ISRAELITES. They could not have come from near
Cairo, 75. Their number, 75. Horses cannot pass across without wa-
ter, 75.-Land of Goshen, 76. Situated on the eastern part of the Delta,
77. In the province esh-Shurkiyeh, 78.-Route from Goshen to the Red
Sea near Suez, 79.-Passage through the sea, 81. Character of the
miracle, 82. The strong wind, 82, 83. Time required, 83, 84. The
passage took place near Suez, 84-86.
March 16th. Leave Suez; mounds of ancient canal, 87. Enter Asia,
sandy tract, 87, 88. Encampment, Song of Moses, 88, 89.—March 17th.
Fountain of Nâba', 89. 'Ayûn Mûsa, with palm-trees, etc. 90. Many
Wadys; encamp in Wady Sudr, 91. Tâset Sudr, Terâbîn, 92. Our
guides, their clothing and poverty, 92, 93. Ever wanting money, 93.
Alleged obstinacy of the Bedawîn, 94.—March 18th. Remain encamped;
willingness of the Arabs, 94, 95. Monks as fellow-travellers, 95.-March
19th. Fountain Abu Suweirah, 95. 'Ain Hawârah, Marah, 96-98.
The shrub Ghurkŭd with its berries, 96, 97. Sweetening of the water,
98. Wady Ghŭrŭndel, Elim, 99, 100. Wady Wutah, 100, 101.-
March 20th. Jebel Hummâm and Hot springs, 101. Various Wadys,
102, 103. Gazelles, 104, 105. Bedawy and Indian habits, 104. Wady
Taiyibeh, 104. Country further south, 104, 105. Route of the Israelites,
106. Led down this valley, 106, 107. Did not all march in one body,
106. General deficiency of water, 106. Their further route, 106, 107.
We follow up Wady Humr, 107. Sarbût el-Jemel, 108. Inscriptions,
108. Rain-water, 109. Mimosa (Tülh, Seyâl) in the Wadys, 109, 110.
-March 21st. Jebel Wutâh, 110. Fountain of Nŭsb, 110. View of
Jebel et-Tîh, 110-112. Three passes through it, 111, 112. Turn off to
Surâbît el-Khadim, 112. Mysterious Egyptian remains and monuments,
113-116. Wady Sûwuk, 117. Mountain-goat (Beden), 117. Arab
feast and disappointment, 118.—March 22d. Wady Khumileh, 118.
Arab cemetery, 119. Wady el-Burk, 119. Camel gives out, 120. Bat-
tle and defeat of the Tawarah, 120, 121. Wady Lebweh, 122. En-
campment of Sheikh Salih, 122. Cemetery, 122. Wady Berâh, in-
scriptions, 123. Encamp, 123.-March 23d. Difficulties of an early
start, 124. Inscriptions, 124. Projecting veins of rock, like walls, 125.
Old cemetery, 125. View of Mount Serbâl, 125. Meet Tuweileb, 126.
Routes to Sinai, 125. Approach to the outer cliffs of Sinai, 127, 128.
Pass, Nukb Hâwy, 128, 129. View of (modern) Horeb, 130. Plain er-
Rahah in front, 130, 131. Wady Shu'eib (Jethro), with the convent,
131. Wady el-Leja, 131. Excitement of Beshârah, prayer for rain, 132.
Arrival and reception at the convent, 133, 134. Rooms, 134. Geo-
graphical position, 135.
March 24th. Wady Shu'eib, 136. The convent-buildings, 136. The
garden, 137. Sheikh Husein, 138. Topography of the region and meas-
urement of the plain, 139-141.-March 25th. Sunday in the convent, di-
vine service, 141, 142. Breakfast with the monks, 142, 143. The great
church and the chapel of the Bush, 143, 144. Cells and rooms of the con-
vent, 145. Library, 146. Charnel-house, 146, 147. Severity of Lent, 148.
March 26th. Ascent of Jebel Musa, 148-158. Our party; the supe-
rior goes with us, 148, 149. No regular ascent by steps, 150. Chapel
of the Virgin, and legend of the fleas, etc. 150. Portals, 151. First
sight of the summit, and of St. Catharine, 151.
Well and cypress,
151.
Character of this spot, 152. Chapels of Elijah and Elisha,
152. Reach the summit, 153. Chapel; travellers' names, 153. Eleva-
tion, 153. Disappointment; this not the place where the law was given,
aud affords no wide prospect, 154-156. Descent to the well; appearance
of rain, 156. Visit the front of Horeb, chapels, 156, 157. Ascend Râs es-
Sufsâfeh, 157, 158. View; probable place where the Law was given,
158. Descent to el-Arba'in, 158. Name and condition of this convent,
159. Lodgings, respect paid to the superior, 159, 160.
March 27th. Ascent of Mount St. Catharine, 160-165. Delays, 160.
Difficult path, no steps, 160, 161. Approach to the summit, vegetation,
view into the depths on the West, 161, 162. Reach the summit, chapel,
elevation, 162. Motive for ascending the mountain, 162. Wide prospect,
163, 164. Ignorance of guides, random answers, 164, 165.-Descent to
el-Arba'in, 165. Return to the convent through el-Leja, 166. Pretend-
ed rock of Moses, 166. Inscriptions, 167. Other ruined convents and
holy places, 167, 168. Respect of the Arabs for the superior, 168.
March 28th. Visit to the superior's room, 169. Presents, 169. Man-
na, not that of the Bible, 170. Sandals of fish-skin, 171.—March 29th.
Preparations for departure; exchange Besharah for Tuweilib, 171, 172.
Expenses at the convent, disappointment of the superior, 172, 173. Pro-
posed visit to Jebel Serbâl; not the Sinai of the Bible, 173, 174. Its ele-
vation, 174. Climate of Sinai, 175.
SINAI OF THE OLD TESTAMENT. The Law probably given from the
present Horeb, impending over the plain, 175, 176. Probable approach
of the Israelites, 176, 177. Use of the names Horeb and Sinai, 177.
Rephidim, 178, 179. Sinai not afterwards visited by Jews, 179.
SINAI IN THE EARLY CHRISTIAN AGES. Earliest Notices, 180. Peo-
pled with anchorites and monks in the 4th century, 180. Account given
by Ammonius, 181. Massacre of forty anchorites, 181, 182. Nar-
rative of Nilus, another massacre, 182, 183. Letter of Marcian, 183.
Founding of the convent by Justinian, 184. Testimony of Eutychius, 185.
Visit of Antoninus Martyr, 185. Feirân (Paran) and its bishops, 185,
186. Further historic notices, 187. Early pilgrimages, 188. Sinaitic
Inscriptions, their history and explanation, 188-190.
THE MODERN CONVENT. Visitors in the 14th century, 190; and in the
15th, 191. The archbishop, 192, 193. Life of the monks, 193, 194. Few
pilgrims, 194. Property of the convent, 194, 195. Relation to the Be-
dawîn, 195. Ghafirs or protectors, 196. Food distributed, 196.
ARABS OF THE PENINSULA. The Tawarah, their tribes, 197-199.
The Muzeiny, their origin, 198, 199. Jebeliyeh or serfs, 199-202. Ter-
ritory of the Tawarah, 202. Other more northern tribes, 202. Poverty
of the Tawarah, 203. Their number, 204. Ghafîrs and quarrels, 204.
Danger of war, Lord Lindsay, 205. Former war with the Ma'âzeh, 206.
Common law of the Tawarah; the Sheikhs act as judges, 207, 208. Pro-
ceedings in personal quarrels, 208-210. Their honesty, 210. Bedawîn
cannot read, 211. Their Muhammedanism, 211. Can they be civilized?
212, 213.
March 29th. Departure from the Convent, beggars, 214. Wady esh-
Sheikh, and tomb of Sheikh Sâlih, 215. Encamp, 216. New camels, 216.
Tuweileb's evening visit, 216.-March 30th. Various Wadys, 217. Wady
Sa'l, enters the mountains, narrow and gloomy, 218, 219. Approach the
sandy plain along et-Tih, 219, 220. Encamp; Tuweileb's children, 220,
221.-March 31st. Cross the sandy tract, 221, 222. 'Ain el-Hudhera, Ha-
zeroth, 222-224. Probable route of the Israelites, 223. Passage through
Jebel et-Tîh, 224, 225. Encamp, 225. Character of the region, 225,
226.--April 1st. Remain encamped; loneliness, 226.-April 2d. To
Wady Sumghy, 226-228. Cross over and descend by Wady es-Sa'deh,
to the coast at en-Nuweibi'a, 227, 228. View of the Gulf of 'Akabah, 228,
229. Wady Wetîr, 229. Fountain and well near the shore, 230. En-
camp, 231.
April 3d. Path along the shore, 231. Râs el-Burka', Veil Cape,
231, 232. Fine beach and many shells, 232. Various Wadys, 232, 233.
Encamp, 233. Shells and shell-fish of the Red Sea, 233, 234.—April 4th.
Promontories on the coast, back road, 234-236. Wady Merâkh, place
where Burckhardt turned back, 236, 237. Island Kureiyeh, the former
citadel of Ailah, 237, 238. Approach to the corner of the Gulf, 238, 239.
Caravan of Haweitât, 239. Character of this part of Wady el-'Arabah,
240. Mounds of Ailah, 241.
Fortress of 'Akabah, 241, 242. The Governor, 242. Our lodgings,
242. Alarm of fire, 243. Visit to the Governor, 243, 244.--Our further
journey, Sheikh Husein of the 'Alawîn, 244. Change our plan and con-
clude to go to Gaza or Hebron, 245.-April 5th. Negotiations with our
Tawarah, 245, 246. Visit of the Governor, 246. New contract, 246.
Walk outside of the fortress; character of the region, 246, 247. Supply
of water, not from the shore, 247. 'Amrân hovels, 248. Geogr. posi-
tion, 248. Passport and papers, 248, 249. Presents, 249. Arab weav-
ing, 250.-Historical Notices of Ezion-geber and Elath or Ailah, 250–
253.
Origin of the name 'Akabah, 253. The Haj-route, its stations and
fortresses, 253, 254.
April 5th. Departure on the Haj-route, 255. Guides of the 'Amrân,
255. Ascent of the western mountain, 255. Encampment and prospect,
256.-April 6th. Ascent continued; Gate of the Pass, 257. Artificial
road, 257,258. Head of the Pass, 258. Leave the Haj-road and turn
towards Hebron, 259. Character and elevation of this desert, 259, 260.
Turf er-Rukn, 260. Encamp, 261. This desert as yet unknown, 261-
263.-April 7th. View of Jebel 'Arâif, 263, 264. Watering-place, 265.
Camels and their young, 265. Wady Jerâfeh the great drain of this
desert, 265. Waters all flow off north, 266. Showers, encamp, 267.
Our 'Amrân guides, 267. Their country, 268. Wadys and fountains
along the 'Arabah, 268.--April Sth. Remain encamped; sacrifice of the
Arabs, 269.-April 9th. Night-alarm, 269, 270. Bedawy dog, 269, 270.
Division of waters between the 'Arabah and the Mediterranean, 271.
Jebel 'Arâif, form and character, 272. Corpse half buried, 273. Wady
el-Mayein, encamp, 273, 274. Country of the Haiwât and Tiyâhah, etc.
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