two strokes for each passage of the shuttle, the first with open shed and the second with close shed: if only one stroke were given to each crossing of the weft thread, it would have to be given with greater force; but then the fabric would not be so good; whereas, in giving two moderate strokes, the cloth will be perfectly even. Clean white paper must be put on the cloth roller, as fast as the fabric is wound on; because this texture having a thick warp and weft might become watered by the vibration given to that roller by the stroke of the reed.* Gros de Naples is made with double and treble threads in the warp, and with 4 threads in the dent of the reed. The weft is composed of 3 or 4 ends put together, or according to the thickness of the cord wanted in the fabric: for fine gros de Naples, there are of course, fewer ends used in the weft, but 4 ends is the number generally employed. In weaving gros de Naples of inferior quality, one stroke of the reed, only, is given to each thread of weft but when the quality is to be superior, two strokes are indispensable, in hand looms. Since the introduction of the new mechanism, invented by C. G. Gilroy (see Section Twelfth) to the power loom, in combination with Jacquard machinery, not only these fabrics, but all fabrics, of silk, or of other materials, generally, can be manufactured with the greatest facility and profit. These improved looms have received the approbation of the most skillful manufacturers of England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Belgium and Prussia. (See testimonials at the end of Section Twelfth.) THICK SILK CLOTH. Thick silk cloth is a fabric made with 4 threads, double or treble, in the dent of the reed, according to the quality; and it is generally manufactured in a loom with 8 or 10 leaves of headles, half of which are raised and depressed alternately. The reason for using so many headles on plain texture, is to prevent the warp from being crowded in the headles. The warp is not kept tight in the loom, particularly when it is wanted to cover well. The pace weights which govern the tightness of the warp, must be moveable, and there should be one weight on each side of the beam or roller, so as to strain equally. There must be a whip roller, turning on gud * We have laboured 15 years, in France and Great Britain, to produce as perfect silk and other goods, plain, tweeled and figured, in the power loom, as could be effected by the most skillful weaver, by hand; and how well we have succeeded, our friends will be better able to judge after reading the proofs set before them in next section. geons or journals, placed at a proper height to suit the headles; and over this roller the rope must be passed (see Figs. 219 and 220 ;) which roller will 1oll with the silk as fast as the cloth is taken up on the cloth roller and prevent the evil effects which would be continually caused by the decreasing diameter of the warp beam. It requires a very skillful weaver to make a good silk fabric, and even in France the manufacturer is often at a loss for competent workmen; some who have worked at this business for 30 or 40 years, not having paid sufficient attention have not become good weavers; while others have obtained ten times the amount of knowledge in one-fifth of the time. The weft thread repeats 4 times in the middle of the selvage (in this kind of texture) and only twice in the edges: the selvages work in opposition to each other, that is to say, when one selvage is opened on the right the other is closed on the left, and vice versa. This prevents the weft thread from following the shuttle back again. A piece of silk goods is never considered well woven unless the selvage is perfect in every respect, and entirely free from hills and hollows on the outer edge. SATIN. Satin is made of different widths, from ths to ths of an aune (44 inches, French) and of various lengths of web; and has from four threads to ten threads per dent in the reed. When only four threads are entered per dent, only five leaves of headles are used; which headles are made of raw silk. This kind of fabric is dyed after it is woven, and is used only for making hats and artificial flowers. Black satin is generally made with a double warp, when intended for making the crowns of hats, caps, &c. The sleeking tool is used for all satins, except those of 4 threads per dent of the reed; to these a soft brush is applied instead. Three or four dents at the edges of the cloth are gros de Tour (same as selvages of gros de Naples.) Sometimes the selvages to satin fabrics are zig-zag in the middle and the rest gros de Tour. In weaving a superior satin, the warp must not be too tight; and it must be worked with an open stroke, so that the weft may be perfectly tight and straight. The warp must be well picked before being put into the loom, by a Lyons silk picker; or else it will be impossible to make a fine satin.* For these kinds of textures, the headles should be 16 inches in depth. * A Lyons silk warp picker, or cleaner, costs 1600 francs; and may be procured on application to M. Dioudonnat, No. 12, Rue St. Maur, Paris. HEADLE-MAKING MACHINE. John Blackmar, of Brooklyn, county of Windham, Conn., obtained a patent for a machine for making headles, bearing date October 20th, 1836; a representation of which machine is given at Fig. 192. The patentee observes, that "this machine may be constructed in all essential respects like those now in common use, excepting the application of that principle which makes a part of the machine a bench susceptible of a rotary or revolving motion." This is effected in the following manner :- A, Fig. 192, represents the bottom of the machine or bench; B B, side posts, carrying the shaft D, having suitable gudgeons C C, at its ends these gudgeons CC, pass through the end pieces EE, and these end pieces are made fast on the gudgeons CC; F F, side pieces of the frame on which the headles are constructed; J J, brace to hold the shaft D, and the side pieces in their proper places to keep them from sagging; GG, slide-stands, each carrying a small pulley over which the muddling twine or binder HH, passes: the slidestands GG, may be shifted by the operator to any position best suited to facilitate the work; I, spiral spring, for the purpose of holding the shaft D, in any desired position. Mr. Blackmar claims as of his invention the revolving principle of the headle frame; whether constructed in the way described or in any other way. It is curious that a patent should have been granted for a revolving headle-frame so late as the year 1836, when it has been well known, and, in fact, the only machine used for making headles in Lyons, Paris, Rouen, and many other manufacturing places in France these 30 years past, and has been of late introduced (from France) into Spitalfields. It cannot, therefore, be the subject of a valid patent in the United States of America; yet Mr. B. possibly may have had no knowledge of its existence elsewhere previous to the date of his patent. A patent has been secured in America, for a peculiar method of forming the eyes of headles, which consists of a double knot, one Fig. 1921. on each side of the eye, as represented in Fig. 1921. The side A, is perfectly straight, whilst two single knots are formed on the side B, each of which encloses the side A, when drawn tight, the eye being formed between the two knots, so that in the up and down motion of the headles, the warp threads are pressed against the knots, which being hard tied, are not so likely to cut the eye as if they pressed against a single loop of the headles. CD, are the headle shafts. This improvement, we think, is a valuable one, and well worthy the attention of cotton manufacturers, particularly those of them more immediately engaged in making fine goods. As these headles are generally made of cotton yarn, they would soon wear out unless protected by a suitable varnish being rubbed upon them. We shall lay before the reader two methods of doing this; for the first of which we are indebted to Mr. James Montgomery, superintendent of the York factories, Saco, Maine. Mr. M's varnish is made of the following ingredients: 1 Gallon Linseed Oil, 1 Lib. Litharge, 1 do. Red Lead, Lib. Umber, do. Gum Shellac, All these, except the shellac, are first well boiled over a moderate fire, until the strength is out of the lead; the shellac is then added, but only a little at a time, while the whole is boiling, and it requires to be well stirred all the time. When the shellac is entirely dissolved, the whole is then cooled down to blood heat, then a sufficient quantity of the spirit of turpentine is added, to make it fit for use. Such articles as require it, are to be pulverised. Before putting on the varnish, the headles should be brushed down with paste or size from the dressing machine: and after the varnish is thoroughly dry and hard, they should be again brushed down with tallow, to smooth them well before they are put into the loom. Headles properly varnished in this manner, and perfectly dried before they are used, will generally last over one year. This receipt of Mr. Montgomery's is, no doubt, a very good one for common headles, for weaving the coarser descriptions of shirting &c.; indeed, it appears to be the only kind of varnish used for headles in the United States; but for weaving fine goods, such as muslin, &c., the following receipt will be found far superior, as headles varnished on this plan will not chafe the warp; and, after 5 or 6 days working, on either power or hand looms, will become as smooth as glass. Varnish for Headles.-2 gallons linseed oil, boil slowly 1 hours; then add 32 ounces gum shellac, boil 20 minutes, then add 32 ounces red lead, boil 20 minutes; then add 16 ounces umber, boil 20 minutes. This done, take the varnish off the fire, and add 2 gallons spirit of turpentine the varnish must not be very hot when the turpentine is added, to prevent it from taking fire. In making this varnish, it is to be constantly stirred; and the several ingredients of which it is composed must be added slowly. Note. In boiling the various ingredients, the manufacturer may use his own judgment as to the time when each of them becomes properly dissolved: but we think the foregoing directions will be found pretty correct. Application of the Varnish.-In applying this varnish, it must |