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down for his pillow. As for my part I was not disposed to sleep, but took up the rush-light, which had been placed for fecurity on the ground; and to pass away the leaden hours of time, pored over an old Welsh dictionary (which was the only thing like a book that I could find), till I was fcarcely able to fee. I could not help contemplating our fingular fituation and appearance in this ftrange place: on one fide, around the dying embers of a peat fire, my good friends were enjoying as comfortable a repofe as they had ever experienced in the most coftly bed: at the other extremity of the room, feparated only by a rug, the venerable owners of this humble cottage lay locked in each others embraces: whilst I, like Brutus in his tent at Philippi, fat reading by the mid-night lamp, till the light danced before my eyes, and the pale spectre of

the

the night appeared to my imagination. Without doors nought but the " pelting

of the pityless storm" was heard, and the loud roar of the mountain torrents: I recollected fome lines of a favorite author, which I thought applicable to my prefent fituation:

"And when rude bluft'ring winds and driving rain, Prevent my willing feat;

Be mine the hut that from the mountains fide
Views wild and fwelling floods."

COLLINOS.

Yet while I was contemplating the fcene, under fuch peculiar circumstances, with a mixture of awe and surprise, these fimple cottagers lay perfectly indifferent, and unconfcious of any novelty in their fituation. The noise of the cataract was by them fcarcely ever remarked, or ferved to strengthen their repofe; mountain floods, abrupt and broken precipices,

K 2

pices, were alike viewed by them with the utmost indifference; fo foon does the human mind become familiar, and accommodate itself to any circumstances. Habit and cuftom are even fo powerful as to change the very complexion of things, and render that finally pleafing, which at first could not be viewed without fear or diflike. The Savoyard will climb from rock to rock, and fearless walk upon the brink of tremendous precipices, which we, unaccustomed to fuch scenes, cannot contemplate, even at a distance, without emotion; but, in a little time, we become familiar to them, and ridicule those fears we had formerly entertained, for what we can now view with fo much

unconcern.

At four in the morning I thought it prudent to awaken the whole party,

which I effected with fome difficulty; we then fallied from our habitation, and made our obfervations upon the weather, which gave us no encouragement to proceed; however, they determined to venture upon their aërial excurfion, more from the hope of finding the plants, for which this mountain is remarkable, than of feeing any thing when at the top: at their perfuafions, added to my own inclination, I declined the enterprise, as my cold had confiderably increased during the night, and went back again to the inn, where I impatiently expected their return, which did not happen till four in the afternoon. It turned out, as might have been foreseen, a fruitless and fatiguing expedition; for when arrived at the top, they could fee nothing but the impenetrable clouds, that almost constantly envelope thefe huge mountains. K 3

We

We quitted Bethkelart the following morning, and purfued the course of the same stream I have above spoken of; that for nearly two miles rolls with great rapidity at the foot of prodigious high mountains, which rise on each side of it, almost perpendicular from its banks, leaving but barely room for a narrow road, which must have been cut at a vaft expence. The gentle and murmuring founds of the water, occafioned by its declivity, and the obftructions it has to overcome, form a rude but grateful harmony. Pont Aber Glaflyn terminates this fublime scene. The bridge, and furrounding objects, are here highly deferving of attention. From hence we steered our course to the left, and traversed the wildest and most defolate country that North Wales can boast of; for the most part confifting of vast hills, rifing one above another, covered

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