we could by no means make them understand us; all we received in return was a stare, immediately followed by a grin, and concluded with a "tin farcenick," which fignifies "no Saxon." We were obliged therefore to rely upon chance for our guide, which did not however upon this occafion befriend us; for, instead of keeping to the right upon the hills, we pursued the left path, that brought us into an extenfive vale, or marsh, where, at the distance of about five miles, we first perceived the objects we were in pursuit of (viz.) the town and caftle of Harlech. After fome confiderable exertions, we were obliged to abandon this valley, because it was so swampy, and fo much interfected by ditches and drains, that it would have been, if not impracticable, at least extremely uncomfortable and difficult to proceed. With great fatigue and perse

verance,

verance, we climbed up the almost perpendicular, and craggy fides of the mountain, which bounded that part of the vale, where we were reduced to the above perplexity, and at length reached Harlech ; for the first time heartily fatigued.

The country people have no idea that a stranger can be ignorant of their roads; we have not unfrequently asked the way, and received for answer,

straight as we could go;"

"that it was as

when, in a very

few paces, we have been perplexed by two roads, one declining to the right, and the other to the left.-Nor have they much idea of distance; each measuring it by the rule of his own judgment and opinion. It is no unufual thing to be told, that the distance to fuch a place, may be about five miles," and a pretty good step;" which pretty good step, generally proves to be about five miles more.

Harlech castle is nobly fituated, and, like Denbigh, ftands upon a lofty promontary, terminating a chain of hills, and commanding on one fide a view of the fea, and on the other, a very extenfive vale and profpect. From its fingular fituation, it must have been formerly esteemed almost impregnable; and yet we read in our hiftory, that it was befieged, and taken, in the time of Edward the Fourth, by the Earl of Pembroke, without the affiftance of gunpowder. We alfo here achieved an exploit, which, beyond all doubt, gives us fome title to military prowefs; for as there did not happen to be any body in the way, who might open the gates of the castle, and our time not permitting us to wait for the ordinary forms of capitulation, we boldly marched up to the affault, and fcaling the walls at four different places, took poffeffion of the garrifon, as it were fcaglin

>

by a coup-de-main. But for this daring outrage, we had well nigh got into an aukward fcrape; fome of the inhabitants obferving our operations, and probably taking us for free-booters, gave the alarm; and mustering a formidable body of forces, marched in military array, to difpoffefs us of our strong hold. But we foon pacified our opponents, and having convinced them that our intentions were neither predatory nor hoftile, they retired to an ale-house to banish forrow, and indulge themselves, at our expence, in copious libations of ale.

There is nothing interefting in the road to Barmouth, nor has that place itself any ftriking peculiarities, except that the houfes are fo whimfically built, upon the fide of a steep hill, that the inhabitants L 2

fide

may have the advantage, if they choose, of looking down their neighbour's chimnies. The town ftands upon the fea fhore, and in the feafon is full of company, who refort thither for the purpose of bathing.

From Barmouth to Dolegelly we were highly gratified; the road wound along a ridge of rocks, that hang over the Avonvawr, an arm of the fea; which, at full tide, has the appearance of a large lake, furrounded with beautiful woods: The mountains on both fides, but particularly on the oppofite fhore, were ftrikingly grand; and above all, Cader Idris reared its head into the clouds, which, together with the fombre afpect of the evening, and the hollow murmurings of the fea gave an awful fublimity to the fcene that cannot be described.

Dolegelly