bed rooms to let in the fresh air. We took a guide from thence to Llanindovrey, over the lonely and tracklefs mountains of Cardiganshire; it rained hard the whole way, and we had not even the gloomy confolation of seeing a partner of our misfortunes: for, to speak within compass, we neither beheld a single habitation, nor even a human creature, for more than twenty miles. From Llanindovrey I journeyed on alone, for the rest of the party not being preffed for time, could make their obfervations at pleafure, having no neceffity for hurrying over the country as I was obliged to do. Brecknock is fituated on a small rifing, above the river Ufk. I cannot do justice to the beauty of the country, the whole way from Brecknock, to Crickhowel and Abergavenny it is one continued landscape, abounding with every rich vaM 2 riety riety of scenery, and beautifully interfperfed with hamlets and villas. At Crickhowel there are fome remains of á caftle, but at Abergavenny (commonly pronounced Aberganey), fcarcely any: it derives its name from the river Gavenni which there meets the Ufk. To me, who had but just quitted the uncultivated and tremendous fcenery of North Wales, its rocks, its mountains, and its cataracts; the fertile hills and cultivated vales of Brecknockshire were doubly striking; and the rich features of the latter, heigh`tened beyond the reality from fo lively a contrast. Ragland castle is a very fine ruin, belonging to the duke of Beaufort; the road from thence to Tintern, would gratify the most romantic imagination; the last three miles, or more, being a continual descent through a deep and gloomy wood, wood, till the astonished traveller bursts from the surrounding scenery full upon the Wye, that rolls its muddy waves in rich meanderings through this folitary glen. The lively picture that immediately offers itself to the view, of boats in full fail, of others landing their cargo, with the busy and cheerful cries of the failors and workmen, was like the effect of enchantment, and almost created in me an imagination, that I had arrived in another world, and had discovered a new order of beings. At some distance stands the abbey, whofe holy ifles, and melancholy fhades, were once devoted to religious fervour and monaftic difcipline: it was founded A D, 1131. The monks were of the rigid order of Ciftertians*. * At what time chriftianity was introduced into Britain, it is not correctly known; but it is certain that it was in fome degree established here, though continually M 3 We owe to Henry VIII the fuppreffion and overthrow of thefe feminaries of bigotry and fuperftition: as long as they continually perfecuted by the Saxon Pagans, long before the arrival of Auguftin the Monk, who was fent upon a holy miffion into this island, A. D. 596. How. ever, the abuses of chriftianity were coeval with its introduction; and this holy father himself fet his heart not only on spiritual but temporal things; for he was created the firft archbishop of Canterbury: he is alfo accused of having excited the Saxons to fall upon the Britons, and to maffacre twelve hundred monks of Bangor. Monachifm is fuppofed to have been introduced into Britain by Pelagius, at the beginning of the fifth century. The contracted limits of a note are infufficient to enumerate the infinite variety of monkish fraternities, and the crimes they were guilty of: but according to Gregory, their enormities are Icarcely credible. In confequence of the fuppreffion of these monafteries in the time of Henry the Eighth, ten thousand religious were turned into the wide world; and Henry became poffeffed of all monaftic revenues whatsoever; these on the whole amounted to fix hundred and forty five monafteries, ninety colleges, and two thousand three hundred and twenty four chantries and free chapels. exifted, existed, the exertions of genius were fettered and confined; and Europe was overspread with one general gloom of religious fanaticifm and intolerance. About the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, fome enlightened minds awoke from the general flumber; but it was a feeble effort, and the darkness returned more thick and heavy than before. Monkish pride and cloistered pedantry every where ufurped dominion over man.-Learning and science were finally depreffed, and ignorance became the best shield of protection; but truth at length unfolded the deep veil of hypocrify and prieftcraftreason refumed her empire-the whole fabric of papal defpotifm fell at once to the earth; and luft, cruelty, and revenge, that had so long been concealed within its walls, fled at the firft glimmerings of light; whilft the pure and genuine prin ciples |