ciples of Christianity rofe as a pillar of glory upon the ruins, and pointed to univerfal happiness and peace.

The elegance and lightness of the structure exceeds any thing of the gothic architecture I ever faw. It occafioned in me much regret that I was compelled to pass over, and to vifit, in fo cursory a manner, a scene, which, for beauty and fingularity, might challenge nature throughout. I wished to have examined more minutely the venerable remains of this once celebrated abbey; but the very fabric which I was fo much admiring, indicated too forcibly that I had to deal with that inexorable and insatiable foe, called "Time." I felt the conviction, and with reluctant steps haftened to Persfield, celebrated for those extenfive and magnificent gardens, which have coft so much

labour

labour and expence heretofore, though now fuffered to run into decay.

Chepstow is a very neat and well fituated town; it has a caftle that might once have been formidable, but is now a complete ruin. Having thus brought my tour to a conclufion, I have the fatisfac tion to add, that the event has not difappointed, or fallen fhort of expectation ; and what few difficulties we encountered greatly contributed to heighten our other enjoyments. 'Tis true we have sometimes been obliged to cook our own victuals, fometimes to be content with very fcanty fare, and fometimes with none at all; nor were we ever indulged with down beds, chince curtains, or Turkey carpets; but good health and wholefome fatigue rendered fuch articles of luxury totally ufelefs and unneceffary.

Το

To fum up the advantages and disadvantages; I do not hesitate a moment to say, that were I to make the fame tour again, or one through a fimilar country, I should certainly perform it on foot, both from motives of convenience and independ ency.

Upon the whole I have been as much charmed with the manners of the people, as with the country which they inhabit ; there is a boldnefs and originality in all their actions, which marked the conduct, and characterised the features of their anceftors. A love of liberty and independence is implanted by nature in their breafts, and is cherished into maturity upon their mountains and fea coafts by a hardy and defultory manner of life. With respect to hofpitality, they still preserve their original character; the manner of it

is

is undoubtedly much altered, it is lefs magnificent but more pleasing; the ftranger is not conducted into a noble hall, and placed at the right hand of the chief; no bards attend with the fongs of times that are paft; the walls are no longer hung with the maffy spears of departed heroes, or decorated with the spoils of a vanquished enemy; the conch does not found to war, nor is the boffy shield ftruck as the fignal to meet the threatening foe. Strange ferocious manners were blended with the hofpitality of those days; but, happily for mankind, fuch barbarous features of uncivilized ages are at length every where humanized into more refined and focial enjoyments. Whether fociety has not arrived at an excess of refinement; whether a great degree of refinement is not the parent of vice and corruption; and if fo, whether an age of

barbarity

barbarity with honefty and virtue, or an age of refinement, with effeminacy, vice, and corruption, is moft defirable, or moft calculated to produce the immediate and eternal happinefs of mankind? I leave to be determined by thofe who have leifure and inclination, to confider with attention fo abstracted a subject.

The occupation of war, and the amufe ments of the chafe, have given way to the more domestic employments of pafturage, agriculture, and fishing. Of the produce of their daily labour, the stranger is generally welcome, and though their poverty is obvious, they refufe every recompence but thanks and civility; I fpeak chiefly of the lower orders of the people; of the higher, or more opulent, the manners are almoft every where the fame.

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