from a Greek in Smyrna, introduced us to several persons, whose acquaintance was of use to us.

"Obtained a guide, (Stathi Spagnuolo,) to show us whatever we might wish to see in the town, and its vicinity. He had fifteen or twenty certificates in Italian and English, given him by travellers whom he had served as a guide.

"Went first to see the ruins of an old monastery. The walls are still standing, as high as a four story house, and perhaps 150 feet long. In it there are now several Turkish huts. In passing through the town, we found two ancient Greek inscriptions which we copied. Passed an immensely large building, formerly a Christian church, now a Turkish mosque. This is said to be the church in which the disciples met, to whom St. John wrote.

"8. Went up to the old castle, north of the town. Vast walls are still standing composed principally of granite, with some fine pillars of marble. The castle includes five or six acres of ground, and about half way down the hill is a wall which includes several times as much. Within the castle are large subterranean reservoirs which used to serve for water and provisions. Most of the walls are evidently not very ancient, and are said to be the work of the Genoese. The foundations, and a part of the wall, seem more ancient, and are said, perhaps with truth, to be the work of the ancient Greeks. Noticed several Corinthian capitals, and copied one Greek inscription. The castle furnishes a good view of the city. North and west of it are verdant, mountainous pastures; south and east a fertile plain. Nine or ten minarets speak the power of the false prophet.

"Returned from the castle, and went to the site of an ancient theatre, west of the town. It is a semicircular cavity in the side of a hill. The semicircle measures about 600 feet. Massy walls of granite are yet standing.

"Went next to the amphitheatre. It is a deep circular valley, formerly no doubt filled with rows of seats rising one above another to enable the spectators to witness the fighting of beasts, or the destruction of men, on the arena at the bottom of it. "Passed by what is said to be the tomb of Antipas near the old monastery. See Rev. ii, 13. We next visited a building which is called the temple of Esculapius. It is a lofty vaulted dome, the inside about forty feet in diameter; the granite wall about eight feet thick. We remember to have seen it somewhere stated, that Esculapius once practised physic in Pergamos; that the inhabitants erected a temple to him, and offered sacrifices and adored him as a god.

"There is in Pergamos one synagogue, one Greek and one Armenian church. At the Greek church we found a school of twenty boys taught by a priest. Gave one Tract to each boy, and several to the master, which were received, as our Tracts usually are, with many expressions of gratitude. The master then went with us to visit the other priests. We showed them, in the Romaic Testament, the address to the church in Pergamos, which one of them read. We then gave them a Testament, and a number of Tracts.

"The population of Pergamos is said to be about 15,000; viz. 1,500 Greeks, 2 or 300 Armenians, 100 Jews, and the rest Turks. The streets are wider and cleaner than any we have before seen in Asia. As we were about to leave town, a man to whom we had a letter from Smyrna, brought us three fowls for our journey, and a letter of introduction to Immanuel, a friend of his, three hours on our way to Thyatira.

"At half past one we left Pergamos: at three we crossed the Caicus, and pursued our way along the southern bank through a fertile plain several miles wide, with verdant hills on the north and south, and.

several small villages at the foot of them. At half past nine we crossed the river again, and stopped for the night at the house of Immanuel. He is a Greek.

His house stands on the river's bank with a mill in one end of it. He soon told us, that our letter of introduction stated that we were ministers of the Gospel, much interested for the Greeks, and carried about books for distribution among them; adding, that they had lately built a church in this neighborhood; and it would be, 'a great charity if we would leave a few books here.' We ascertained that five, out of 10 or 12 men about the mill, are able to read, and gave them Tracts; we also gave a number to Immanuel for the priest and others.

"9. Pursued our course along the same plain. In four hours passed through a considerable village called Soma. The inhabitants are principally Turks -about seventy families are Greeks. In two hours and a half from Soma we reached Kircagasch, and stopped for dinner. This town is situated at the foot of a high mountain of lime-stone, called on the maps Temnus, on the south side of the plain. It is said to contain 10,000 inhabitants, viz. 8,000 Turks, 1,000 Greeks, and 1,000 Armenians. There are eleven mosques, and one Greek, and one Armenian church. Left a number of Tracts for the Greeks. At three o'clock we set out from Kircagasch, and pursued our way at the foot of mount Temnus. Passed two small Turkish villages. The principal productions in this part of the country are grain, cotton, tobacco, and pasturage for flocks. At one time we counted five hundred cattle together, attended by the herdsmen and their dogs; in another flock were about as many goats, and in others a still greater number of sheep.

"At eight o'clock we reached Thyatira, now Akhisar, and put up at a khan. Immediately after we arrived, a heavy rain commenced. At Pergamos we were told, that within a few weeks eight men have

been killed by robbers, at different times, on the road between that place and this. We saw a man at Pergamos, who was attacked about two years ago, on this road, and left for dead. He still carries a scar in his cheek, in consequence of the wound which he then received. All these barbarities, however, were perpetrated in the night. We were uniformly told, that in the day time no danger is to be apprehended. Still our attendants showed strong signs of fear; and it was not without difficulty that we persuaded them to leave Kircagasch with the prospect of being out a few hours after dark. From all dangers, seen and unseen, God has mercifully preserved us. May our spared lives be wholly his. We read the address to the church at Thyatira, prayed to that God whom saints of old worshipped in this place, and then retired to rest, commending this city, once beloved, to the compassion of our Redeemer.

"10. We had a letter of introduction from a Greek in Smyrna to Economo, the Bishop's procurator, and a principal man among the Greeks in this town. This morning we sent the letter, and he immediately called on us. We then conversed some time respecting the town. He says the Turks have destroyed all remnants of the ancient church; and even the place where it stood is now unknown. At present, there are in the town 1,000 houses for which taxes are paid to the government.

"Thyatira is situated near a small river, a branch of the Caicus, in the centre of an extensive plain. At the distance of three or four miles it is almost completely surrounded by mountains. The houses are low, many of them mud or earth. Excepting the moslem's palace, there is scarcely a decent house in the place. The streets are narrow and dirty, and every thing indicates poverty and degradation.

"There has been some doubt whether Ak-hisar is really the ancient Thyatira. There is a town. called Tyra, or Thyra, between Ephesus and Laodicea, which some have supposed to be Thyatira. But we have with us the Rev. Mr. Lindsay's letter, in which he gives an account of his visit to the seven churches. Ak-hisar is the place which he called Thyatira, without even suggesting any doubt about it. When we inquired in Smyrna for a letter of introduction to Thyatira, they gave us one to this place. The bishop, priest and professors at Haivali, and the priests in Pergamos, and in this town, have all spoken of Ak-hisar and Thyatira as being the same. In the inscription which we copied, the place is called Thyatira. St. John addressed the seven churches in the order in which they are situated, beginning with Ephesus and closing with Laodicea. If Ãk-hisar is Thyatira, this order is complete; if not, it is broken.

"11. At seven we set out for Sardis. Passed in sight of three or four small villages, and at half after eleven stopped to dine at a village called Marmora. It has four mosques and one Greek church with two priests. The whole number of houses is said to be about 500, of which 50 are Greek. Gave some Tracts to a priest and to several others. At one we resumed our journey. At two came in sight of a lake, and made a bend around the west side of it. At four we ascended a hill, and saw before us an extensive plain, through which the Hermus runs, and beyond it mount Tmolus extending to the east and west as far as the eye could reach. At the foot of this mountain stood Sardis, the great capital of the Lydian kings, and the city of the far famed Croesus. We crossed the plain obliquely, bearing to the east, and reached Sardis, now called Sart, at half past six, in 10 hours travel from Thyatira; course a little east of south.